Breaking and bending tiny pin punches...

[Cantom]

Last night I fought to get that little pin that retains the rear sight pin on a No 4 Mk 1* Long Branch out. I ended up bitching a screwdriver I really liked, my pin punches are all buggered...except of course for the big ones I never use anyway.
I'd love to find a tiny pin punch with replaceable tips...just a handle with many pins to go with it.

Or should I buy a bunch of the 1/16" punches from here?

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=12625&title=%23565+PIN+PUNCH+SET

I've tried the Princess Auto junkers, they are so soft they bend as soon as you hit them once.

Those little sized pins always seem to be stuck too...one of my least favourite things to deal with.

[Claven2]

I just use a small finishing nail bent into a slight curve. works fine.

And by the way, you have to punch that pin out from the bottom.

[Cantom]

I just use a small finishing nail bent into a slight curve. works fine.

And by the way, you have to punch that pin out from the bottom.

:D this much I know...it did finally come out. The design does preclude a straight attack, it has to be angled.

Any tips on sourcing good pin punches? I have a set of Lyman punches, they're better than most but once again the small ones are history.

[woodchopper]

I feal your pain, my small punches are all bent or broken. I have an old fireing pin that I use for the odd job.


perhaps the decaping pin from a lee universal deprimer die might work too

[tiriaq]

I have a set of the Brownells. The tips are replacable. I find the threaded caps that secure the tips tend to vibrate loose. Might be better with low strength locker. The tips are serious steel.
In my experience, punches almost seem to be disposable tools. I regrind and reshape them as needed. Watch the temper, but you can spin the punch in an electric drill, up against a belt sander ( I use a 1" strip sander) and grind it to the diameter you need. Cheap punches are an abomination. There is good steel to be had, like firing pins, drill rod, etc. that can be reworked as needed.

[sdh1911]

I have the same set a Tiriag and they work very well. I've been grinding down hardened dowel pins for spares-SDH

[Pete04]

Go to htt://catalog.starrett.com/catalog/catalog/groups.asp?GroupID=223

I've used Starrett tools for 40 some years and have been very satisfied. They ain't cheap and no I don't own the company! lol
Pete

[Ian Robertson]

I use Starrett as well and the only one I seem to bugger up is the 1/16". I may order a box of dowell pins that size and loctite them into a handle.

[Pete04]

Some situations call for heating or cooling. Some call for chemicals ie WD40 etc. Sometimes what you really need is a press of some sort. Choose the right tool as well as the right method. And quit beating up your poor punches.(insert smiley thingy)
Pete

[tiriaq]

Ian, the pins used in the Brownells set are ejector pins used in moulds/dies. They have a little head, so are retained by a cap. Setting any hard steel pin into a handle would work. Making up a set with different lengths would be worthwhile.

[maustralia]

try a drill chuck and reverse a broken hi speed steel bit

[10x]

You can make pin punches if you have a lathe or drill press.
I start by matching the pin to be moved with a slightly smaller drill bit. I will then use that drill bit to drilling int to the end of 1/4", 5/16", or 3/8" bolt stock. (a bolt with the head and threads cut off).
If you have a spare chuck, you chuck the bolt stock in the drill press, then put the second chuck on the stock to be drilled. Make sure both are reasonably tight. Clamp the second chuck in the drill press vice withe the drill press down. Release the drill press chuck, let up the press, and mount the drill you selected. Drill the hole in the end of round stock about 7 to 10 mm deep - use oil to lubricate and cool. Remove both drill bit and round stock. Insert a worn out or dull drill bit of the same size in the hole in the end of the round stock. cut off the drill bit at the proper length with a dremel tool, and voila - a proper matching pin punch. You can subsitute nails or short bits of welding rod for the pin but remember they will bend far easier. The shorter the pin in relation to the diameter, the less likely it will bend or break.
It takes longer to describe the process than to make one if you have access to a small lathe.
And remember a bigger hammer will sometimes move a part with one blow that several blows from a smaller hammer will distroy. So never force anything when you can use a bigger hammer.

[Cantom]

You can make pin punches if you have a lathe or drill press.
I start by matching the pin to be moved with a slightly smaller drill bit. I will then use that drill bit to drilling int to the end of 1/4", 5/16", or 3/8" bolt stock. (a bolt with the head and threads cut off).
If you have a spare chuck, you chuck the bolt stock in the drill press, then put the second chuck on the stock to be drilled. Make sure both are reasonably tight. Clamp the second chuck in the drill press vice withe the drill press down. Release the drill press chuck, let up the press, and mount the drill you selected. Drill the hole in the end of round stock about 7 to 10 mm deep - use oil to lubricate and cool. Remove both drill bit and round stock. Insert a worn out or dull drill bit of the same size in the hole in the end of the round stock. cut off the drill bit at the proper length with a dremel tool, and voila - a proper matching pin punch. You can subsitute nails or short bits of welding rod for the pin but remember they will bend far easier. The shorter the pin in relation to the diameter, the less likely it will bend or break.
It takes longer to describe the process than to make one if you have access to a small lathe.
And remember a bigger hammer will sometimes move a part with one blow that several blows from a smaller hammer will distroy. So never force anything when you can use a bigger hammer.

This is really good stuff guys, thanks a lot...this forum proves it's worth yet again...

[Cantom]

I found exactly what I am looking for at Brownells. I just ordered the two smallest sizes with extra pins...somehow I didn't see this before although I'm sure it was there. This is really the way to go...

GUNSMITH REPLACEABLE PIN PUNCH SET at Brownells (https://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=545&title=GUNSMITH+REPLACEABLE+PIN+PUNCH+SET)

[buckbrush]

I make my own. I use 3/8 hex 12l14 for handles and use A-2 tool steel for the punch bits. I make the handles 6" long and find them much more comfortable than factory punches.

[sdh1911]

I've used everything from drill blanks to hardened tool steel. Its just the nature of the beast. Make sure your hitting a flat with a flat and bending should be minimum. Most problems come when you hit a round pin with a flat punch vise versa. I found that making the right punch for the right job helps, but, does not stop the evil pin bending godsHTH-SDH

[shadecrank]

I do alot of pin punching at work and have found that grinding the punch back to a length of about 1/4" will really improve things. The short punch doesn't flex or bend and all the force of the blow is transmitted to the workpiece. Just grind back one of your bent punches slowly, cooling in water every few seconds. Just grind it back as short as you can and still reach the workpiece.

[gunasauras]

I found exactly what I am looking for at Brownells. I just ordered the two smallest sizes with extra pins...somehow I didn't see this before although I'm sure it was there. This is really the way to go...

GUNSMITH REPLACEABLE PIN PUNCH SET at Brownells (https://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=545&title=GUNSMITH+REPLACEABLE+PIN+PUNCH+SET)

This is EXACTLY what I use....they are GREAT!

[vintovka]

I do a bit more smithing than most and and go through punches fairly quick. I bought a bunch (10-15 each) of sears craftsman punches in 1/16 and 1/8 on sale for about .69 each. When I break 4 or 5 I take them back and they happily replace them.

[John Lawson]

It is necessary to start a flush pin squarely, without the punch snagging on the steel around the hole the pin occupies. I often use (abuse?) the cup point punches Brownell sells for use on S&W revolvers to start a pin straight.
Starrett pin punches are fine, and I use them a lot, but the punch portion is altogether too long for starting a pin moving, especially if it is too tight. It pays to savel the stub of a bent punch, grinding it into a short "starter punch".
If you have a small lathe, you can chuck the stub punch handle in a chuck and grind a cup point with a toolpost grinder or Dremel tool held on the cross slide. There are tiny radius point carbide bits available that will do an excellent job of cupping the point of a hard stub punch.