M!-Garand/ New Barrel & Can't Hit Anything!

[hermiem]

Hi Guys,

I’m new to this site and forum so please bear with me.
I recently inherited a WW-II era M1-Garand made by Springfield from my father. He purchased it back in the 1980’s – but never shot it. I took it to the local OUTDOOR range and I was doing Ok with it –but the groupings were not consistent. I then took it to one of our local gunsmith’s here in Raleigh for it to be gone over for safety, etc. The gunsmith said that it was in excellent condition and had to only replace 1 small spring. However, he told me that the crowning on the muzzle was bad and that was most likely the reason why I had the grouping problem. He did not recommend to have it re-crowned but to purchase a new barrel. I went online and ordered a decent $250.00 new replacement barrel. I took it back to the gunsmith and he put the barrel on, tested fired it and said everything was great. Famous last words.

It was almost a year after I had the barrel put on that I finally found the opportunity to shoot it. So this past week I took it to an INDOOR range. I shot from the bench rest position using a shooting rest. I was extremely disappointed and p.o.’d. I couldn’t hit a darn thing – either at 50 or 100 yards. I wasted 96 rounds. With about 3 clips remaining I was finally on the paper at 50 yards but really low and to the left. I had adjusted the elevation adjustment to where it was about center. (However, this adjustment was almost to the max.) The windage was the big problem. I had the rear adjustment all the way to the left and I was still hitting about the same on the far left border of the target – at 50 yards. At 100 yards there were no hits on the target. I used both surplus ammo that I purchased through the CMP and my own reloads (6 clips each.) with the same results. I’m not that bad of a shot. Plus, I was hitting the target at 100 yards at an outdoor range with the old barrel. I took it back to the sporting goods store where I had the gunsmithing done. The gunsmith that did the work unfortunately had died. I wanted them to take a look at it – for free but they told me since I had no proof that the work was done there that I’d have to pay for the gunsmithing again. The bottom line was we got into a bit of a “urination” match and I’m going to have to try find another gunsmith that knows what they are doing I guess. Does anybody have any ideas what may be going on with my M1? I’d really appreciate some feedback.

Regards,
hermiem

Information

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[Charlie59]

First-center the sight block by lining up the centerline on the sight, with the centerline on the rifle. Then lower the elavation aperture as far as it will go. Then, raise the aperture 10 clicks. This should be in the center of the target at 100 yds.

[Charlie59]

Now, make sure the gas screw is tight, as in 10-15 footpounds. A quarter inch drive ratchet with a extension works, and a large screwdriver that FITS will. The single worst thing that causes accuracy problems is a loose screw. And they tend to work loose a lot if they arent tight enough. I hold the cylinder and barrel under the front sight with a crescent wrench to prevent possible twisting. It doesn't have to be gorilla tight, you'll know when the screw stays put. You'll get to a system that works for you.


That should get you started. There are plenty of guys here that will be helpful to you. Let us know how you're doing! Oh yeah-post some pics.

Charlie

[Bob Seijas]

You realize, I hope, that the direction arrows on the rear sight denote which way you want to move the shot group. To move the group to the right, turn the windage knob to the right.

[Charlie59]

About your ammo, what load are you using with your reloads?

[cruiserdan]

First-center the sight block by lining up the centerline on the sight, with the centerline on the rifle. Then lower the elavation aperture as far as it will go. Then, raise the aperture 10 clicks. This should be in the center of the target at 100 yds.

This is pretty much where I start with a rifle having an unknown zero. Sometimes I will start at 50 yards with about 6 clicks up. If the rifle is on the paper with a decent group that is off to one side I will drift the front sight a bit in order to get a "mechanical" windage zero. Drift the front sight in the opposite direction that you want the group to move, IE sight to the right to move the group left. I believe this is the main reason that the wide-base gas cylinder came into use.

If a new barrel is not properly indexed the front sight will be tipped to one side (left if over-clocked and right if under-clocked) and the groups will be off. In addition the rifle may fail the tilt test. A rifle will shoot to the left with an under-clocked barrel.

Good luck in sorting it out.

D-

[Devil Dog]

First, I have to say that many GOOD Gunsmiths know very little about M1 Garands.
Garands are unique in lots of ways. The fact that your gunsmith (at the sporting goods store) suggested you replace a barrel that needed crowning, is a hint. Garand barrels must be indexed properly or your front sight will be out of alignment and the rifle will shoot to one side or the other. It sounds like that may be your problem. I would suggest you find someone who understands how to change an M1 barrel and have him check yours out. It may be a very simple fix.

[Charlie59]

Did you keep your old barrel? I bought a re-crowning tool that I have used three times so far. It put a decent crown on, and there is information(members to ask) about using them you can find on this Forum, and here: CMP Sales I have found that many gunsmithing tasks you can learn to do yourself. I do whatever I can to save money, but more because I like tinkering around with guns. Somethings I would use a gunsmith for, but not many.

[Dean-DGR]

I suggest you get the rifle to a gunsmith use to working on the M1. There are many of us out there, Orion 7, Fulton and ourselves DGR just to mention a few. There are many factors to the M1s accuracy and someone that is use to working on them can solve the problem. We perform tech inspections for a cost of $65. With a tech inspection you will know what is needed and can then make changes based upon knowledge.

Dean-DGR
http://www.dgrguns.com

[browningautorifle]

What Devil Dog says is true. You can look at your rifle from the muzzle end and about a yard away and examine the vertical lines of the front and rear sights. This will be painfully obvious if your front sight leans left or right. Most guys don't get the barrel tight enough, so the barrel leans left and yours seems to be doing that.