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Thread: Hard to Seat an 8 round clip...........

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    Hard to Seat an 8 round clip...........

    I'm sure this question has been asked many times before, but I don't get here as much as I used to....I'm 77 now.....Anyway, I know that I should be able to push an 8 round clip in with one thumb (at least I did that easy in 1953, and 1954 when I was drafted)...Now it takes 2 thumbs pushing hard with the op rod held back by my palm...........Clip Latch? Clip Latch Spring? Bullet Guide?........where do I start and what would you change, and no, there is no binding on anything.....Thanks,
    Aligater (Bruce Payne)
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    I'm afraid that due to the nature of the design, there's not much of a way to reduce the loading forces while maintaining proper function w/ standard loads. The upward spring tension is from the operating rod spring- redirected through the lifter arm.

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    I would try the follower arm, bullet guide, op. rod catch, clip latch, enblocs (in that order)

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    I've had a few clips that were real tight. Take some fine steel wool and buff the outside of the clip. That may help. Some of them have been reparked or painted and I've heard that some greek clips are hard to load the second time around.

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    I've had a few clips that were real tight. Take some fine steel wool and buff the outside of the clip. That may help. Some of them have been reparked or painted and I've heard that some greek clips are hard to load the second time around.

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    Could you track down one of these chromed match clips?



    They slide in pretty easily.

    Bob
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    Bruce, have you tripped the op rod catch when starting the clip? With the bolt latched back, the clip should start easily and with constant pressure on the top round with your thumb, the bolt will release but not go forward until you pull your thumb off. Then a slight bump against the op rod with your hand should get things going. If a smooth, firm push on the clip doesn't seat and latch it, then something is mechanically wrong.

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    Thread Starter
    Thanks guys......I'll try everything.
    Bruce

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    I'm sure your en blocs are GI but I made the mistake of buying (unknowingly) Chinese unmarked junk!

    Yep, they looked/felt right UNTIL I attempted to load them into the rifle.

    Note to self: Buy GI only or leave the M1icon in the safe.

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    A properly timed gun will cause the op to release just as the clip is seated, every time.

    Worn parts will prevent that from happening or cause some drag and slow it down, needing an op rod "tap".
    Worn op rod and matching op rod catch hooks are one reason. A worn down accellerator or parts that are worn like the follower arm, bullet guide nose, follower rod seat and sloppy mainpin can also slow down that function. some lubricant might help on those parts.

    According to the Kuhnhausen book, removing the accellerator from the op rod catch disables the automatic op release function entirely.
    When an accellerator is removed it is necessary to pull back on the op rod to release the op rod catch from the op rod hooks, for the op rod to go home. Saves the thumb.
    He says that it is preferred by some.
    One of my guns needs a "tap" . Likely one thing or the other.
    The others work just right.

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