Help With Post Wwii Garands!

[ap3572001]

I am new to the Garands and REALLY want to understand some things.....

What is an ORIGINAL post war Garand? What is a CORRECT post war Garand? How are the Garands graded? Can a Garand be almost correct? I am really lost......

For years I collected S&W revolvers. It was easy. It was NIB or LNIB. 98% , 95%. Factory refinished etc.

For now , what I really want to know is how to grade post was 1950's Garands. Thank You .

Information

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[USSR]

The Forum and Sales pages on this site will answer a lot of your questions:

http://www.odcmp.com/

Don

[Bob Seijas]

"Original" means that it has all the original parts that were put on it when it was made. A percentage of original suggests how much of it remains unchanged. If the safety broke and was replaced, it is no longer 100% original, but you could describe it as 99%.

"Correct" means restored to look like an original. All the parts are from the proper time period for the serial number of the receiver, things like the correct stock markings and parts numbers. "Mostly correct" means just that, most of the restored parts are the right ones.

Many of the late SA's examined and sorted at CMP during the GCA convention appeared unfired, but the whole trigger group was HRA, obviously switched with one of the mint late HRA rifles Greece had. It would be no trick at all to find a correct SA trigger group and put the rifle back the way it was.

[ap3572001]

"Original" means that it has all the original parts that were put on it when it was made. A percentage of original suggests how much of it remains unchanged. If the safety broke and was replaced, it is no longer 100% original, but you could describe it as 99%.

"Correct" means restored to look like an original. All the parts are from the proper time period for the serial number of the receiver, things like the correct stock markings and parts numbers. "Mostly correct" means just that, most of the restored parts are the right ones.

Many of the late SA's examined and sorted at CMP during the GCA convention appeared unfired, but the whole trigger group was HRA, obviously switched with one of the mint late HRA rifles Greece had. It would be no trick at all to find a correct SA trigger group and put the rifle back the way it was.

Thank You. So for example, a 5.4 m. Springfield , in Service Grade condition, that is ALL Springfield and every part but the bolt is correct for the time it was made is better than the gun would be, if it had a mixture of of parts from different makers? Right? And the above Springfield would be even better if the bolt was dated to the gun. Right?

[Devil Dog]

"Thank You. So for example, a 5.4 m. Springfield , in Service Grade condition, that is ALL Springfield and every part but the bolt is correct for the time it was made is better than the gun would be, if it had a mixture of of parts from different makers? Right? And the above Springfield would be even better if the bolt was dated to the gun. Right?"

I assume when you say "better" you mean "more valuable"
Yes, an original gun is more valuable than a correct gun and the correct gun is more valuable than a mix-master. The more original/correct parts the better. This would be true only if the buyer cares about the "collectability" of the gun. Some "collectors" may find a mix-master gun actractive because it may have some valuable parts. A "shooter", on the other hand, cares little about the "correctness" of the gun. He is more concerned about "condition". He would most likely want a Danish mix-master return just from rebuild with a nice new VAR barrel. Keep in mind, that except for a few original guns, most M1's are worth more as parts than as whole guns. If you don't think so...try building one up from individual parts...at any level...Shooter, Correct or Collector. You will have more money in it than you could ever sell it for.
Now to answer your concern: Yes, change the bolt on your service grade and make it correct. Will it be worth more? Probally no more than the $100. you paid for the bolt. But, maybe you can sell your old bolt.

[ap3572001]

Thank You . I think I understand. I checked out a CMP site. I looked at their grading system. Rack Grade, Service Grade, Correect ETC.

Sometimes in stores ( and on line) I see a really beautiful, refinished Garands with really minty GI barrels , all good + condition parts ( mixed) with nice new stocks. Look like a new gun. A friend of mine has one like it and it shoots as good as my M1A ( all GI parts) rifle.

What do You call those rifles? What category woudl You place them in?

Also. What type of Garand would be strictly the best AS A GUN? As a WEAPON? W/O any consideration for collectors value.

Also, how to check if the Garand is good and safe to shoot? Condition of the barrel etc.

[USSR]

What type of Garand would be strictly the best AS A GUN? As a WEAPON? W/O any consideration for collectors value.

A Garand with little throat erosion and muzzle wear of zero.

Also, how to check if the Garand is good and safe to shoot? Condition of the barrel etc.

Have someone check the headspace.

Don

[ap3572001]

I want to buy a set of tools/gages that would allow me to chek out a Garand. What do I need and were to get it ?

[USSR]

To check headspace you will need 2 gages: Forster Headspace Go Gage 30-06 Springfield and Forster Headspace Gage Field Length 30-06 Springfield. They are available thru internet retailers MidwayUsa and Brownells. To check for throat erosion and muzzle wear, I suggest you send a S.A.S.E. to Steven Matthews, PO Box 125, Scott, Ohio, 45886 for full info. Last I knew, his gage was $52 including shipping. Hope that helps.

Don