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  1. #1
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    Barrel knots and accuracy

    My question: No.4 rifle barrel where are barrel knots? How did Britishicon engenner to calculate barrel harmonics to estabilish 3-7 pounds upward pressure in order to get tight groups?

    Jay Sweet wrote in 1954 that an engeneer calculated in the early '50 knots and anti-knots of No.1 Mk3 bull barrel. Knots are barrel points where barrel itself remains still during the time bullet will exit the muzzle. Knowing those points we coul try a specific barrel bedding while the receiver in still bedded for military handbook.

    Yuryev , a russian who wrote about Mosin Nagant and their thin barrels told to cover barrel surface with chalk or other light powder and shoot a few rounds. The place of the barrel where chalk/other powder still remains , those are barrel knots. Those places we could create a contact between barrel and fore end in order to avoid extremely thin barrrel consequenceses. What do you think?
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    Yep, know all about KNOTS, learnt about them as a boy scout. You could heat the barrel red hot and maybe tie it in a knot.
    Now barrel NODES are a different thing, as the No.4 is a bit stiffer than the No.1, it's a bit harder to guess, but with the No.1 it is where the barrel band is located.
    I once did an experiment using a moveable weight, 1'' from end of muzzle, 8'' from muzzle, 16" from muzzle, but that was not on an enfield and was a stiffer barrel and 28" long.
    Jim sweet wrote something about this in an early (303) edition of Competitive Rifle Shooting, I do not have that article.

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    Enfield and Woolwich appear to have used an early form of spark photography to monitor barrel recoil movement as far back as WW1, so they were extremely advanced for the era. There were hundreds of different types of trial carried out on the Enfield Rifleicon family, and millions of test rounds fired - they probably had all kinds of test rigs and experiments. Whatever they did, the No4 was a masterpiece of production engineering - a multi-million unit mass produced rifle, capable of match target shooting with the most basic of bedding methods....

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    Equally capable of frustrating the shooter also if you neglect the basics

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    The trick isn't stopping the barrel from moving, but making sure it moves the same every time you fire. As the barrel whips, the muzzle goes up and down. If a bullet exits at the top of the whip one shot and the next exits at the bottom, they will not hit the same area. You can leave your barrel as is and adjust your loads until you find one that groups tightest.... once you get into altering the bedding you usually make things worse before any improvement is found. One big issue here is the availability of new foreends to play with, because once mucked up, they are difficult to get right again, especially if using the old techniques. Range shooters decades ago had an almost limitless supply, and quite a few made their own from scratch.

    I have on more than one occasion spent many hours getting a rifle bedded only to find it didn't shoot- tried it with a sporter foreend, fully floating barrel and got good results- they can be very pedantic

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    Soory for my english i called knots what you call nodes. But the meaning is the same. I'm very fascinated with theory that's under enfiel barrel bedding. . For a mass produced rifle of that era it was simply fantastic.no other words are possible to say.

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    Have you read some of the articles in the Knowledge Libraryicon? Have a scan through there...

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    bow's from Italyicon in case anybody's wondering.

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    Barrel movement is a fascinating thing to study.

    Movement is not just in the vertical plane. One of the main reasons for vertical "whip" is the fact that the support point of the rifle, i.e. the firer's shoulder on the butt plate, is below the bore line. this is why the FG-42 and numerous post WW2 rifles went for a "straight-line" styling. See Armalite series for starters.

    The vibrations start as soon as the striker moves.

    When the bullet initially engages the rifling, it is trying to twist the barrel in the opposite direction of the twist. Impact with the rifling also sets up "shock" waves that travel up and down the barrel at high speed.

    At the same time, the pressure that is accelerating the bullet through the bore is producing a minute elongation of the barrel behind it.

    If the barrel is tapered and has lumps like sight beds attached, all manner of odd things happen to all of these waves as they travel back and forth. That is one of the reasons hard-core "unlimited"bench rest types tend to go with un-tapered barrels with nothing attached to them.

    Interestingly enough, however, the chaps at UltraLight Arms are very keen on bonding their barreled actions into the stock, i.e. full-length bedding, but then their stocks are custom made Kevlar-Carbon specials, not a chunk of moisture sensitive wood.

    And finally, the "official" bedding regimes, especially on Lee Enfields, were meant to extract optimum consistency from a standard cartridge, usually Mk7 ball. Swap to S&B, Remington , Norma or any of a zillion handloads, and all that is out the window, unless you are very lucky. Even loading Mk7 projectiles in new brass with commercial propellants and primers can be "interesting".

    And then there is the question of the correlation (or not) between the sight graduations and the actual trajectory of your bullet of choice.

    But that is all part of the fun.

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    lol, if it was easy , it probably wouldn't be half so interesting.

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