Original Blackener for Gas Cylinders?

[RogerFoxDog]

Hi folks! I know this was probably covered on the original CSP forum but, as we all know, those vast archives are gone. So I must ask again, What type of solution was originally used to treat the post war gas cylinders to give it that black matt finish. Also, what modern solution can I use to refinish my cylinder that will give the same results and durability. I'm trying to stay away from the top coats like baking laquers and teflons. TIA:D

[Ernie]

Hello,

As to the first part of your question, I do not know what the original finish was on the post war cylinders. I have a as new HRA on my collector grade and I also have an as new IHC and both are just a beautiful smooth black finish.

I have used a stainless steel black solution (kind of light blue in the bottle) to blacken the cylinders on my match rifles. They both came out extremely well. It is a chemical reaction that occurs and it appears to be very durable unlike the paint idea. I think it is Caswell's Stainless Steel Black but I don't exactly remember. IF it is different from that I will post tonight when I get home. It is sitting on top of my safe. I can recommend it as I think it does an extremely nice job.

Others probably have different ways but someone on our old forum posted about this stuff several years ago and I saw it for sale at a local match so I purchased a bottle. My memory says it was about $25 for a quart (which seems to go a very long way).

Hope this helps.

[gunny33]

Hi folks! I know this was probably covered on the original CSP forum but, as we all know, those vast archives are gone. So I must ask again, What type of solution was originally used to treat the post war gas cylinders to give it that black matt finish. Also, what modern solution can I use to refinish my cylinder that will give the same results and durability. I'm trying to stay away from the top coats like baking laquers and teflons. TIA:D

If the cylinder is stainless steel you can use a "Black oxide" coating [akin to blueing]. It will need to be sandblasted. You should plug the ends but it is no problem if the solution gets in as it more of a stain than a coating and exposure to the gas will remove it fairly quickly. A good plating house in your area may be able to do it for you. Coat the outside with oil and it should last for years.

Bill

[mack]

High temp ceramic paint works well on the gas cylinders and, if you get the type you bake on in an oven, it will turn a dark gray that will match up well.

Caswell's is the industry standard however. Just depends on whether you have Caswell's on hand or need it in a hurry and if you want to bead blast first.

[Jim K]

Per Hatcher, the original finish was "a mixture of flat black paint and synthetic enamel thnner to the ratio of two ounces of thinner to one quart of paint. After the paint is applied it is baked on at a temperature of from 300 to 350 degrees F."

He states that the finish was not very satisfactory and soon wore off. Later chemical finishes were more durable.

I have used flat black barbeque grill spray paint with good results; it is very durable, as is flat black engine paint.

Jim

[RogerFoxDog]

Thanks for all of the replys gentlemen! I checked out the Caswells site and ordered the pint.

[John Beall]

if you use the caswell products, do not cut the solution with water as the instuctions say. use it straight. it looks good, but it does seem to be kind of a thin finish. I also have used high temp header paint, baked on, and that works well too.
CRB

[Devil Dog]

I use a local commercial "Black Oxider" that also does stainless steel. Not all platers can do stainless steel. You must do all the prep. I wire brush, soak, clean, de-grease and boil. If the cylinder has been painted, you must remove ALL the paint. Blasting wont hurt but is not necessary. My plater charges me by the pound. You can do the cylinder, stacking swivel, lock and nut as an assembly.
Note: I have also done the front sight for a shooter in the same process. They come out very black and perfect for shooting.

[RogerFoxDog]

I use a local commercial "Black Oxider" that also does stainless steel. Not all platers can do stainless steel. You must do all the prep. I wire brush, soak, clean, de-grease and boil. If the cylinder has been painted, you must remove ALL the paint. Blasting wont hurt but is not necessary. My plater charges me by the pound. You can do the cylinder, stacking swivel, lock and nut as an assembly.
Note: I have also done the front sight for a shooter in the same process. They come out very black and perfect for shooting.

That is an interesting point regarding the stacking swivel and screw. Does anyone know if I have to remove the staked screw and stacking swivel before I use the Caswell solution? Those two parts aren't stainless steel so how well does the Caswells SS370 affect those parts. TIA

[Devil Dog]

I'm guessing, but I would say the Caswells solution will also "blacken" non-stainless parts. The oxide solution that my plater uses will work on both.

[Ernie]

I use the Caswells at full strength. It gives a very nice finish. What I do is pour out a small amount of the Caswell's and take a artist brush and carefully brush it on the stainless. I do not dip my parts as I believe it just wastes the solution. It comes out extremely nice for me this way.

I prep by stripping any paint and clean it with Old Masters Finish stripper. Then I take OOOO steel wool and soak with the Old Masters and carefully clean the parts (cylinder, lock screw, gas plug). Then I warm the parts and brush on the finish. I use new clean rubber gloves to do that part so not to leave marks on the cylinder. It does come out very well for me as I have done about 4 this way.

I have never tried the carbon steel parts with the Caswells. I use a Brownell's solution that is kind of a light blue cream. I don't remember the exact name now. It is a steel blackener as well and works great on carbon steel. It does not look like a cold blue but more like black parkerizing.

That is just my experience for what its worth.