303 from the 40's

[jerry]

I have a pile of 303 ammo from the 40's is there something i should worry about before i shoot it up or should i just let it sit there?

[Brewster]

Should be fine to shoot if it is not too corroded and the casings look fine.

It might be worth more unshot though.

Take a picture of the head stamp or quote it here and I am sure someone could tell you.

[jerry]

Well brewster, here is a pick of what the ammo looks like, on the whole the brass is pretty clean. I have one box in bad shape and two others that a in very good shape i think i could be wrong. the ammo headstamp says di z 1944


:http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j184/jeremy_10/HPIM0226.jpg





:http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j184/jeremy_10/HPIM0236.jpg

[Claven2]

The DI stamped stuff is "Defence Industries" and it's Canadian. Good ammo, but corrosive.

I can't make out hte labels too well on the other stuff, but it looks vaguely Indian in origin. Won't hurt to shoot it, but the quality may be lower.

[stencollector]

Claven
At what point did the DI become non-corrosive? I see a 1955 date on one of those boxes.
The reason I ask is because I just picked up 900 rounds of similar vintage 303 last month, some 40s vinatge, and some 50s vintage. I sure would hate to have the barrel on my LB damaged if I forgot to pour the hot water through it.
The older ammo is not my first choice for shooting, but I have exhausted my sources for the 70s greek stuff. I was planning on using the older stuff for the summer shoots, and save the greek for the winter shoots.

[jerry]

Well i shot off about 50 rounds of the di stuff it was pretty accurate, with my LB's open sights i was getting 3'inch groups and when i fied rapid it opened or to about 6' with the flyers. In my savage with the warped beech stock though i was getting 12' high and 10' to the left consistantly. God i have to find a way to fix that stock. The first thing i did when i got home was clean both rifles now with hoppe's no.9 cleaner should i know poor hot water down ther barrel?

[Stevo]

Jerry,
Normally the hot/boiling water should be the first thing down the bore. It will dissolve and remove the salts. Then you can clean as normal.

[Claven2]

Claven
At what point did the DI become non-corrosive? I see a 1955 date on one of those boxes.
The reason I ask is because I just picked up 900 rounds of similar vintage 303 last month, some 40s vinatge, and some 50s vintage. I sure would hate to have the barrel on my LB damaged if I forgot to pour the hot water through it.
The older ammo is not my first choice for shooting, but I have exhausted my sources for the 70s greek stuff. I was planning on using the older stuff for the summer shoots, and save the greek for the winter shoots.

I don' know when it was, but at worst case, I would assum corrosive up until at least the 1960's ;)

It should still shoot fine - just clean your rifle!

[Claven2]

Well i shot off about 50 rounds of the di stuff it was pretty accurate, with my LB's open sights i was getting 3'inch groups and when i fied rapid it opened or to about 6' with the flyers. In my savage with the warped beech stock though i was getting 12' high and 10' to the left consistantly. God i have to find a way to fix that stock. The first thing i did when i got home was clean both rifles now with hoppe's no.9 cleaner should i know poor hot water down ther barrel?

If all you did was clean with Hoppes, I'd go back and clean again. For starters, get some sopping wet windex patches and push them through the bore. the water will flush most of the salts and the ammonia will start in on the copper. Next you can flush with piping hot water if you have the right funnel. If not, then just push a few more windex patches through until they come out somewhat clean and then dry the bore with some dry patches. Now clean again as normal with Hoppes 9.

In 2 or 3 days go back and check the bore to make sure it's not starting to rust. If you did your job properly, it should be fine.

[OLD RSM]

Hi guy's
I don't think DI ammo is Corrosive trying to remember the site all the 30-06 Canada made was all non corrosive.
Cheers

[green]

DI was run by CIL and used the Dominion noncorrosive primer. Dominion Arsenal (DA hs) used corrosive primers until the early 50s.

[Garand]

Using the American Rifleman, "Beginners Digest: Nonmecuric, Non Corrosive Primers" Pg 34-36, January 1961 as a reference, caliber .30-06 , starting at Lot 44000 (Date of Mfg August 1945) manufactured by Dominion Arsenals, Canada was the start of all manufacture of ammunition using non corrosive ammunition by DAQ.

[Claven2]

Personally, I'd play it safe - not sorry. And that ISAA stuff is probably corrosive. Never saw 50's Indian ammo that wasn't.

[Claven2]

OK, when all else fails, go look at my reference material. ISAA = "Inspector, Small Arms, Ammunition"

The ink stamp below it "GB 15-4-55" should mean "Greenwood and Batley, Leeds, UK, manufactured April 15, 1955"

Maker's headstamp should be G, GB or GBF along with the Mk of ammo and 55 for the year... assuming of course the box has its original ammo in it.

Not sure if corrosive or not, but best to play it safe. In any event, it's not Indian packaging as I first thought - it's British.

[Brewster]

Using the American Rifleman, "Beginners Digest: Nonmecuric, Non Corrosive Primers" Pg 34-36, January 1961 as a reference, caliber .30-06 , starting at Lot 44000 (Date of Mfg August 1945) manufactured by Dominion Arsenals, Canada was the start of all manufacture of ammunition using non corrosive ammunition by DAQ.



But we are talking 303 here not 30:06...

And hey, I got two of those rounds dated 1944. Been saving mine so I can make dummy rounds out of them.

Cheers

Brewster

[Garand]

Point taken, but consider the fact that both rounds use the same primers. No manufacturer in there right mind, especially one controlled by a government that also produces rifles in that caliber will go to length of using 2 primers of different compositions.

[Max Power]

most of the DI stuff is dam good stuff. most of the stuff i have shot is not corrosive, from the 40s. also, most of it has the small primer, and IS reloadable boxer