new stock finish

[hpcomp]

I recently purchased a new stock set from the CMP and would like some help on how to go about appling a GI style finish.
hpcomp

[mousegun]

How are you going to use the rifle? Is it mostly a collector or a shooter?

[beachbumbob]

I'm a bit predjudiced and only use BLO. Here's a couple of pictures of my "C" stock on a M1903M that I finished last year. At the time of the photo it had about 21 or 22 coats of BLO. Not an easy way out, but worth it to me.

I was taught with a new stock the old adage. Once a day for a week, Once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year forever after.

Depending on my time, most of mine get at least twice yearly rubdowns.

And I know that the Kerr sling isn't right. Wasted $10 on a reproduction-live and learn.

Bob

http://www.milsurps.com/images/imported/deleted.gif

http://www.milsurps.com/images/imported/deleted.gif

[hpcomp]

This rifle is built to shoot and will most definitly be used in competition. It is a beautiful piece of walnut w/ matching handguards. It also came w/ new metal. Very pleased w/ this purchase and would highly recommend it to anyone interested in doing a stock upgrade for purposes other than historical.
hpcomp

[U.S.G.I.]

hpcomp from what your going to use this for I think that you would be happier with the look of blo. Tung oil looks more original but with no shine. IMHO

[Chilly]

I've read that tung is a better finish so far as sealing and stabilizing the wood. Is that correct? If so maybe it'd work well to apply tung inside and out to seal, then follow with BLO for maintenance?

Byron

[mousegun]

This rifle is built to shoot and will most definitly be used in competition. It is a beautiful piece of walnut w/ matching handguards. It also came w/ new metal. Very pleased w/ this purchase and would highly recommend it to anyone interested in doing a stock upgrade for purposes other than historical.
hpcompReason I asked was that there are different uses one can put this rifle to: wallhanger, safe queen, JCG match rifle*, plinker, hunter etc..etc. If it's going outdoors extensively I'd use (and have used) Minwax Tung Oil Finish with or without appropriate stain. The reasons being:

It's water resistant
It's exceedingly easy to apply.
It can be touched up quickly and easily.
It;s cheap (relatively).
It looks bloody good.

For collectibles or rifles that want that "authentic" or "historical" look, or for those with an urge to make an old battle rifle look like an old battle rifle, BLO or tung oil is recommended. These finishes can be made to look gorgeous, but they take time, patience and care. And, they are less weather/water resistant than Minwax TOF or True Oil (which I've also seen recommended but never used).

* I left out high power matches because although the M1 can be used in high power, I don't think the effort required to make it competitive is worth the agony. Just a personal take on it.


Of course, YMMV!

[hpcomp]

This is what I have in the house: BLO & beeswax-turpentine-linseed oil stock finish. Can't find the tung oil. I've used these on old stocks but never on a new piece of wood. I just want to get it right the 1st time.
hpcomp

[Danny]

If this rifle is intended for competition, you need something a lot better than an oil finish. You should be looking at something like Polyurethane or better (probably some kind of industrial two part finish of some sort).

Danny


This rifle is built to shoot and will most definitly be used in competition. It is a beautiful piece of walnut w/ matching handguards. It also came w/ new metal. Very pleased w/ this purchase and would highly recommend it to anyone interested in doing a stock upgrade for purposes other than historical.
hpcomp

[John Kepler]

I've read that tung is a better finish so far as sealing and stabilizing the wood. Is that correct? If so maybe it'd work well to apply tung inside and out to seal, then follow with BLO for maintenance?

Byron
Actually, for a competition rifle, a solvent-based high percent solids exterior polyurethane is about the best finish you can use! The stuff I use was the same stuff that the Ohio Div of Parks and Recreation used on wood picnic that sat outside in northern Ohio winters for decades. Oil finishes may be more "historic", but not better for stabilizing the wood. "Better things for better living through chemistry!" YMMV!

[Lancebear]

Chilly,

I think you can apply tung oil over BLO but not BLO over tung oil. Better check on that.

LB

[M2HB]

I use Pure Tung Oil from the Real Milk Paint Company.
I use it mixed in a 1 to 1 ratio with Odorless Mineral Spirits. I mix it in a $.99 Home Depot spray bottle that has measurements on it. It doesn't take much to do a rifle. I spray the entire stock down with it and wipe it off after awhile so it had a chance to soak in. A couple of applications and the stock will look great.

[Bob Womack]

Dean's Gun Restorations uses a product called "Deft Danish Oil Finish." The Deft (http://www.deftfinishes.com/Trade/Products/details.cfm?ProductID=8) site describes it as a "penetrating tung oil urethane Danish oil finish," whatever that is. I can tell you that it is gorgeous in person.

Bob

[MontaukTrl]

Dean's Gun Restorations uses a product called "Deft Danish Oil Finish." The Deft (http://www.deftfinishes.com/Trade/Products/details.cfm?ProductID=8) site describes it as a "penetrating tung oil urethane Danish oil finish," whatever that is. I can tell you that it is gorgeous in person.

Bob

The Lowe's near my house has the Deft product. Hmmm....

[Bob Womack]

Okay, you twisted my arm. :) Here's a pic:

http://www.milsurps.com/images/imported/2009/05/aftrightsm-1.jpg

Bob

[hpcomp]

That is exactly the appearance I am after.Thanks to all that responded.

[John Kepler]

That is exactly the appearance I am after.Thanks to all that responded.

In over 50 years of shooting, most of it in some flavor of competition...I have YET to see a target that was the least bit impressed by the appearance or pedigree of the firearm shooting at it!

[JimL]

I've read that tung is a better finish so far as sealing and stabilizing the wood. Is that correct? If so maybe it'd work well to apply tung inside and out to seal, then follow with BLO for maintenance?

Byron

Chilly
You are correct.
I stain (with Fiebings leather dye) tung oil, then BLO.

The tung oil is applied completely over the stock liberally, and in 10 minutes or so the exterior is wiped down.

Blo from there on. Also the Culvers Magic Paste can be rubbed into the stock. That's the wax-turp-BLO mix.
JimL

[CTMC(ret)]

Mine, with Varathane polyurethane...http://www.milsurps.com/images/imported/2009/05/100_1114r-1.jpg

[J Mack]

http://www.milsurps.com/images/imported/2009/05/gcarbine_8JPG-1.jpgI refinished two stocks stripping them completely and used Fiebings dark brown shoe dye. Messy job, but the color turned out beautiful. a deep reddish brown color. Wipe off the excess and let thoroughly dry. Sand and repeat. I used tung oil to finish, leaving the tung oil finish glossy inside of the stock, and polished dull with steel wool on the outside. Sand or steel wool between coats. Make sure you build up enough coats of tung oil to seal the dye or it will be on your hands after shooting. Three or four heavy coats is sufficient, or more thin coats. I tested different methods on a block of walnut before I tried it to see if I liked it. A lighter colored dense grain will not get too dark, and it will show the wood and any variations very nicely after you wipe off the excess dye. This carbine stock was terrible, and I stripped and refinished with dye.
Another easier way I have done stocks with success is using minwax stain. Their stains come in a great deal of colors, and they also seal the wood. I let thoroughly dry and then use a beeswax mix like you have. I melt it in with a heat gun and wipe off the excess. You can reapply the wax anytime.
Good luck

[Bill Hollinger]

Hey John, looks are everything, didn't you know that? HeHeHe