Hi guys, Tim here from NZ. Just joined the site. Been collecting Garand stuff for a few years here in New Zealand.
I've got a couple of questions for the good folks on this site,

1. Just bought a Garand barrel, marked 2-S-A-1-43, drawing number D35449-16-R-109B. It is a two groove. I've had a gunsmith and a NZ army armourer check it out (for the 1903 barrel in a Garand barrel stub issue) -both confirmed it was one piece. What would the US value be?

2. Just bought a lockbar for my rear sight on a 41 dated Garand. The lockbar thread is way bigger (slides over in fact) the pinion. Did the longer pinion eventually adopted have a larger diameter?

Cheers -Tim

I built this in 1986 from a Danish M1d parts kit. Illustrated are a number of proofs of origin. Mostly Italian.. It's history would be interesting. Perhaps a Dane would know?? Thought I would share it Gary

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This is my IHC M1 after I acquired M1D parts from Denmark. It has the correct 555 barrel, M84 scope, t37 flashhider and ersatz cheekrest. I enjoyed building and shooting it. I still have the LMR barrel. I did this in 1982 . I also built a Danish KFK. Gary

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I have this M1 that is "correct" according to Scott Duff's book, but the extractor, rear sight cover, op rod have a lot more parkerizing than the rest of the rifle around the chamber. Could this "wear" be normal? Or is it obvious these parts have been replaced? I am not an expert, but would appreciate opinions from those much more knowledgeable than me. Thank You.

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Thought that I'd post some before (mix-master) and after (correct parts) pictures on my Tractor Garand. BTW, the barrel is a LMR 2-53.

Still trying to decided if I'm going to re-park the rifle. Your input and comments would be appreciated.

I received a nice 1954/'55 HRA from CMP. Headspace looks great with a field gauge:
Attachment 43127

I slugged the barrel, and measure either 306 across the slug in one direction, and 307 across the other. Is that unusual?

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This stock apparently originated from the CMP, due to the mailing label, instructions, and cartouche. However, I've not been able to gather any information about it.

The walnut stock has been inletted for glass bedding, but it apparently has never been fitted to a rifle as it has a lot of wood left.

I would appreciate any information anyone would be able to provide me.


Library Slideshow by BMorgan53 | Photobucket

CMP
HRA SERVICE GRADE M1 GARAND

Mailed order on 2-06-13
Received on 5-03-13

Sticky - USGI WALNUT Wood and I got the Walnut wood.
HRA-SG ME +1 TE +2 1954 HRA Receiver & Barrel but SA Bolt.
Looks like new Greek Park - Not a scratch on the metal anyplace.
Walnut stock has been there but I like that. A lot of small dings but still a very nice stock. Stock has the 3/8 x 3/8 stamp on left side and the circle P on the front of the pistol grip. I am very happy with the Rifle.
Pictures will be coming as soon as I get it broke down.
Dick

I have a Springfield M1 Garand. When I pull the operating rod back, the bolt moves fully back but the bolt does not stay fully back. Instead it moves forward a little when the operating rod is released. Is something broken or out of adjustment?
Any help appreciated.

Dear Collectors,
I recently bought 3 Forster headspace gauges 30-06 and I checked headspace of my M1 Garand rifles.
One of them seems to have problem since with the NO-GO gauge the bolt lug is locking as it happens with the GO gauge.
With the FIELD gauge the bolt lug is almost locking and remains up of about 2 mm only.
Do you think is it still safe to shoot with this rifle ?
Before checking the headspace I shoot with this M1 Garand several ammo boxes, but now I am a bit afraid ...

Thank you.

---------- Post added at 07:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:50 AM ----------

I forgot to tell that I also tryed on the same rifle other spare bolts I had but problem still remain, so I think or the chamber too large or the bolt tennons on receivers could be worn.

Hi

I have just purchased a deactivated (I'm in the UK) M1 Garand.

Details;
H and R Arms Co. serial number 5700101.
Trigger assy marked c46025 W.R.A

Cartouche stamps on walnut stock are -
-ordnance wheel with crossed canons
-Circle with what looks like GIN1 in it?
There is no P in a circle?

The end of the barrel has 'x' stamped all across numbers so I cant read them?
When bolt pulled back, the following is visible on the barrel;
LMR D6535448 11 53 A25 P M (The 'P' is larger than the rest of the characters.)

The bolt has the following;
D28287-198A
A-9
Can any one give me more details about this Garand?

Thanks.

:thup:

One of my M1's has started dropping the trigger housing out when fired. At first I had another M1 with me when it happened so I changed out the trigger housings and it worked fine. Do I need to buy a whole other trigger housing or just a new trigger guard? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks! Ok. Here are some pics of the offending trigger guard( left side) and a tight fitting HRA triggerguard( right side) Stocks are the offending SA/SHM( left side) and HRA (right side)

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This doesn't look like too bad of a deal.
ARMSLIST - For Sale: CONSECUTIVE PAIR OF SPRINGFIELD M1 GARANDS 2 GUNS

I had the distinct pleasure of seeing His Majesty The King’s Guards of Norway (Hans Majestet Kongens Garde) 3rd Company (Band and Drill Team) at the Virginia International Military Tattoo last night, specifically the rifle drill team, performing with their Garand rifles. A smarter rifle drill team you will find nowhere.



They aren't excessively flashy, just an extremely precise outfit, and that is as I prefer it. Their motto: Rhythm, elegance, precision, and it fits.

Bob

Does anyone have any familiarity with these? Any idea of numbers made, price? I have not seen them anywhere and can find very little info on them.

John Garand (1955 Video Interview)

In the mailiatry manuals it is state the the minimum headspace is to be 1.940 inches. So, why is it that my Forster .30-06 GO gage is marked 2.0487" ? Likewise, the maxium headspace per the manual is 1.946 inches but my Forster NO-GO gage is marked 2.0547" ? I am confused!

I got bored so I thought I'd finally post some pictures of my IHC. After I cleaned it up it looks okay, as long as you don't open it up and see the inside of the stock. The left side of the stock is considerably lighter than the right side.

















I also got these loaded back up from shooting my 5.9 mill SA. I'm ready for another day at the range.

I understand some of these modified clips were found in a remote area in Arizona used by US Army troops to train during WW2.

There is an excellent article in Billy Pyle's "The Garand Stand Report" Summer 2013 No 91
about these clips. There is a steel or brass bar installed on the inside and another notch is
cut in the side. The modified clip will keep the action open for cleaning or using the T.E. gage.

The clip in my photos was made-up for cleaningAttachment 42318Attachment 42319Attachment 42320

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This is the stock off the IHC I bought a couple of weeks ago. Is this normal carving for a bedding job or someones bad hack job? I know nothing of bedding because I have no rifles with it(except now this one). I've seen pictures of the carved out area in the horseshoe but not with a metal rod imbedded.
The op rod is polished, it had a NM rear aperature and the gas lock was fitted to start to tighten at about 5 oclock.

Good evening! I am the queen of lurkers on this forum, but I am having an issue I hope someone can advise me on.

OK, took my Garand to the range today for the first time (it was purchased last weekend). It was a real good time and shot real well, except for one issue that had everyone stumped. The clip won't seat if there is 8 rounds in there (had 6 of them with me, same issue on all).

I would push the clip in and have to force the bolt forward to get it to shoot. Once the bolt was forced forward, it shot fine, but this shouldn't have to be done. Also, the release could not be used to eject the clip, it didn't seem to ever engage. And if I pulled the bolt back while the clip was in there, it would automatically eject the entire thing (learned the good value of safety glasses that way today).

Several folks (2 Garand owners and one Marine who used one when he served) at the range came to my aid when it became apparent there was something not working right, and no one could figure out the issue. We even had the gun taken apart right there at the shooting bench, and no one could figure out the issue.

With 7 rounds, the struggle wasn't as bad, but still a minor struggle.

Otherwise, the gun functioned well. I had one stovepipe that did real number on the round. But the gun was doing well otherwise.

Any ideas? Thanks!

Could one or many of the Garand guys look at Gunbroker# 334424956 and tell me what you think. I'm thinking of bidding on it. I would really appreciate.it.

The first production trigger housing (like the model shop trigger housing) did not have a pad or I should say hammer stop pad. It was soon discovered that the movement of the hammer would require a hammer stop pad. A pad was introduced in production without any change to the revision number. I do not know the serial number range that the large pad was introduced into the production, but it was low.Attachment 42065Attachment 42063Attachment 42064

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I picked up this gas cylinder not knowing if it is a SA or IHC. May I ask for some opinions on which it is? There are not any marks or numbers as I would expect on the SA but not sure about the staking on that stacking swivel. As always, thanks for all of the collective knowledge.

RonAttachment 41961Attachment 41962Attachment 41963Attachment 41964Attachment 41965

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I bought this M1 from a gunshop in Miami FL. The owner knew that the reciever, bolt and bbl matched, but seemed to have no clue about the stock or the internals. I bought it because I also saw a vertical line throught the grain of the wood that made me think it was a cartouche. It also had a really old leather sling( brass hooks) with it. When I got it home I cleaned the stock with Murphy's Oil Soap( was that a No, No?) and found a slightly visible SA/GAW cartouche and a small Ordnance wheel on the heel. The stock is actually in very good shape. The parkerizing is pretty much all gone on the reciever. The Op rod has alot more parking and so does the indented rear handguard clip, extractor, and the gas tube. The muzzle passes the bullet test but I have no gauges and neither did the gunshop owner. Can anyone tell me any more about this? Was it worth the $1000 I paid for it? I'm certainly not an expert. I have 2 of Scott Duff's book's and can read, but thats it on my experience with M1's.

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After reading my recent issue of the GCA I saw the itinerary for the GCA Convention. I plan on going and buying a M1 but I am wondering what a CMP "Sales Event" is. Will these be auctions of very rare and high priced M1's or will the event be something that normal, not rich, people like me could buy an M1? Any info would be helpful. Also, I lived in Cody for 8 years and could probably answer some questions on things to do places to go. Thanks to all at Milsurps. Scott S.:)

Acquired this M1 last week. My grandfather fought on Leyte and Okinawa with the 96th Infantry Division, and after the war collected U.S. and Allied service rifles from the First and Second World Wars. The rifle he always wanted but never found was a WWII Garand. The ones at all the gun shows we went to were post war vintage. I saw this one and snapped it up, as a bit of an honor to him. I just wish he was still here to handle it. After looking through Poyer's The M1 Garand 1936 to 1957 and Duff's The M1 Garand: World War II, I believe that I've found something special. Receiver dates to early November 1944, barrel is dated 10-44. The op rod is in original condition with no relief cut. All parts are Springfield and correct for late 1944 production, the only possibly questionable part would be the bolt, which is a -12 SA bolt. Despite the books indicating this rifle was made a little late for the -12 bolt which was changed in the summer of 1944, I have a suspicion that it's the original bolt for the rifle and was just deep in the parts bin. The only thing about the rifle that doesn't match with most references, is that the chamber isn't bright. Again, I think it unlikely that somebody found a reparked barrel from within a month of the receiver production and put it on this rifle, but I suppose anything's possible. Given the lack of wear on the metal, I'm thinking this rifle must have somehow slipped through the cracks at every turn over the last 68 years. Muzzle gauged at below 1, throat wasn't gauged. Rifle included a correct oiler, type 2B combo tool, and a correct grease pot with YELLOW lubriplate still in it. Anyways, if you guys have any amplifying info, or find something that you think is suspicious, I'd love to hear it. I think that this one is the crown jewel of my collection at the moment, and will likely remain so.

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I hear they will be up for sale this July,but condition will be poor to good.

Greetings. I generally hang around the M1 Carbine Forum but have a long troubling question for Garand guys. I want to put the original type rear sight on my (only) 784,xxx SA Garand and have seen conflicting (or confusing) reports on whether a long pinion is proper in this serial number range. Poyer & Riesch 3rd ed. says either the short or long pinion would be possible. I have a couple of good early T2 (8x36 w/ checkered elev. knob) long pinion lock bar sights but I will get a short pinion & repro T1 (6x40) lock bar if indicated. P&R says I am too late for a flush nut. I would appreciate educated opinions as to which sight (or sights) would be most probable as the original issue type for my rifle. TIA

My M1D has a Lyman B-serie's scope the barrel is dated 1-53. It is a CMP papered D model. I have heard the the M84 scope was not used in the Korean war and it was delayed with production problems till the war was over. What have you heard about that time frame? Thanks,jeep