Swede Bullets

Hopefully, I'm about to purchase a Swedish Mauser. The question I have regards the bullets used in military ammunition. I'm aware that the last loading of the military ball round used a 139grn, spitzer bullet, but was it a boat tail, or a flat based projectile?
Which commercially available bullet most closele resembles the shape of the original military spitzer bullet?
I have to admit that I'm completely new at this Mauser malarkey, but I'm aware that the stock marking disc tells which bullet the rifle is sighted for, but, what markings should I be looking for and what do they mean?
Lastly, I have a question regarding the bore dimensions. Modern 6.5mm bullets are .264" diameter, so I assume that the groove diameter of the Swede runs the same? But what bore diameter should I be looking at, and at what measurement would one be considered "shot out"?
They say "a little knowledge is a dangerous thing", and I'm all to conscious that I only have a little knowledge!

1) boat tail spitzer. 139 gr
2) idk but hornady ELD's or old amax 140 gr are sub Moa all day long
3) bore disc or range plate What are you referring to ? The bore disc decipher can be located in gunboards or milsurps descriptions. Very simple and just specifics of your rifle. Less is better in general. Gives barrel diameter and bore quality (Type 2 stock disk-defines throat and bore). If the bore exceeded a certain number it was done and replaced with another barrel. (Type 1 defines branch of service, unit number and some regimental number)
4) shot out barrel may be seen in a mark 3 on bore disc but..... a lot of those are still great. Bore mark of 3 can still be sub Moa. I am not good enough to tell difference between 1-3 with my shooting But a 1 will have better collector value Probably

Tiring to match original bullets is a waste of time for many reasons . A good bullet to start with is the Sierra 140 boatail , works well in most . The military did not use groove size bullets . Original bullets were .262 ish in a .266 ish groove . They used the bore [ land ] to work the bullet . Some swedes with new and tight land barrels can cut .264 US bullet jackets. It is the bore size that matters.

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Originally Posted by speckles

3) bore disc or range plate What are you referring to ? The bore disc decipher can be located in gunboards or milsurps descriptions. Very simple and just specifics of your rifle. Less is better in general. Gives barrel diameter and bore quality (Type 2 stock disk-defines throat and bore). If the bore exceeded a certain number it was done and replaced with another barrel. (Type 1 defines branch of service, unit number and some regimental number)
4) shot out barrel may be seen in a mark 3 on bore disc but..... a lot of those are still great. Bore mark of 3 can still be sub Moa. I am not good enough to tell difference between 1-3 with my shooting But a 1 will have better collector value Probably

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Another point is that you can't always trust the bore condition marker. Just because it left service with that condition bore doesn't mean it currently has that condition (not to mention those scummy people who switch out bore disks to a better one to make it sell for more).

I use the 140 Gn Nosler Custom Competition projectiles in my M38 with great accuracy with 42 Gn ADI AR2209

Dick

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Originally Posted by Aussie48

I use the 140 Gn Nosler Custom Competition projectiles in my M38 with great accuracy with 42 Gn ADI AR2209

Dick

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I also use these in my 96 and 96/38 pushed by 36 gr of varget. Did a little informal shooting Independence Day on my place with the 96.

100 yds

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...aefb6e94-1.jpg

200 yds

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...2e48e0b2-1.jpg

Fired one round at 300yd. First time to shoot this rifle at 300 and by the time I had determined the correct sight setting on the Vasteras insert I only had one round left for score.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...d4ef1ec5-1.jpg