Help with 03A4 Bolt Variations

I posted this on another forum and didn't get much traffic. Milsurps seems to be a good place to share this. I am attempting to piece together a 03A4 I don't mind shooting from genuine parts. I already have two genuine bolts. I am 95% sure they are genuine anyways. What I find interesting though is the variation between the two. They are most definitely from different years of manufacturing and I was wondering if any of the experts could shed some light on what I have? Maybe in my pursuit to build a replica I need to be even more specific and build one from a certain year or date range? Anyways, the pictures below show the differences between what I am calling bolt assembly A on the left and B on the right. Maybe you'll notice more, but so far I have noticed the following:

• 4 marked on firing pin rod of assembly B
• small hole drilled on bottom of cocking piece on assembly A
• Different font type for "R" marked on lug of each cocking piece
• What appears to be a T and 10 marked on rear bolt handle of assembly A and maybe a 6 on assembly B
• very different machining marks on rear of bolt handles
• Different font type for "R" marked on bottom of each bolt handle
• Different machining marks on bottom of bolt handles
• Different font type for Ready marked on safety selector
• Different machining marks on bolt sleeve assemblies
• "L" marked on rear of safety selector on assembly B
• "R" marked on striker of assembly A, nothing on B
• Different coil directions for mainsprings (and flipping one over doesn't change the twist direction... I tried... for awhile, lol)
• mainspring on assembly A is SIGNIFICANTLY stronger than assembly B and appears to be a heavier gauge
• pentagon on rear of assembly B

bolt on the left, most likely, bolt on the right most likely not

The bolt body is the only part of the bolt assembly that is special to the 03-A4. I don't like either of the ones shown. All of the other parts could (and are) a mix of M1903 and 03-A3 types.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chuckindenver

bolt on the left, most likely, bolt on the right most likely not

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Interesting, John Beard over on CMP said the opposite. What is indicating to you that one looks ok versus the other? Asking because you'll likely be the one building this thing for me. We talked the other day on the phone for awhile about it. Thanks for your help.

Here are some follow up pictures I put up for John.


https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...QVhErswh-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...hfqRCBlh-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...PeUrmLgh-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...a1qtRLHh-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...UIavaDVh-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...pd7sYxoh-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...fGmLatRh-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...ejxzYlTh-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...FOxK1KHh-1.jpg

Not sure why I can't edit my own post on this forum. It seems my last post didn't save the pictures correctly. Here they are attached. JB concluded that both bolts were authentic on the CMP forum after seeing these pics.

I vote for Chuck

Well Chuck will most likely get to fondle both of em. Going to send everything to him when I get the rest of the stuff sourced. Hopefully I didn't pay $400 for fake... :(

hard to say for sure. without holding them. a lot of better replicas are popping up lately being advertised as genuine.. they did do a few changes, steel was one of them, switched over to 8620 steel after the first group of rifles, as supplies ran out new steel was run in, I have seen a few replacement made contractor bolts as well, still in wrap in the box. marked with an 8 on the top of the bolt handle

---------- Post added at 10:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:32 AM ----------

one test that iv learned... one seller is advertising them as built in the field {never happened} uses cold blue to color the handle area he grinds. iv had his bolts in my hands.. they are nice. but most wont clear the scope with genuine G.I. rings and scope.. anyway.. if you rub your thumb on the bolt handle until it feels warm.. then take a sniff of your thumb.. youll be able to smell the coper based cold blue... genuine will be black oxide {hot salts blue} or parkerized if rebuilt.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chuckindenver

hard to say for sure. without holding them. a lot of better replicas are popping up lately being advertised as genuine.. they did do a few changes, steel was one of them, switched over to 8620 steel after the first group of rifles, as supplies ran out new steel was run in, I have seen a few replacement made contractor bolts as well, still in wrap in the box. marked with an 8 on the top of the bolt handle

---------- Post added at 10:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:32 AM ----------

one test that iv learned... one seller is advertising them as built in the field {never happened} uses cold blue to color the handle area he grinds. iv had his bolts in my hands.. they are nice. but most wont clear the scope with genuine G.I. rings and scope.. anyway.. if you rub your thumb on the bolt handle until it feels warm.. then take a sniff of your thumb.. youll be able to smell the coper based cold blue... genuine will be black oxide {hot salts blue} or parkerized if rebuilt.

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I will check the ones out that I have. Having a hard time sourcing the receiver and scope base. Will probably just get an 03A3 NOS barrel once I get a receiver in hand. Then should have everything to send to you.

While holding my original 1903A4 bolt in my hands and comparing all the photographs in this post, I must say that the bolt on the left is 99.9% exactly like my bolt.

The one on the right is substantially different. So I believe the bolt on the left is the real deal! As to the right, I just don't know?

Cheers
Tom