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Bringing Back a Beaumont
Hello all! So, recently, I picked up another rifle I've always wanted; a Dutch Beaumont. Now, I'll be the first to admit that I'm not ALL that familiar with 19th Century small arms, but I am learning nonetheless. I picked this rifle up at a gun show, and I was only there because my buddies wanted to attend. Personally, I don't care for gun shows, but since I was already there, it looked like it needed a better home than what it currently had.
Firstly, from what I can gather, it would seem that the Beaumonts were left 'in-the-white', except for the magazine bodies. Can somebody confirm this? Because, I am not basing this off of any literature, or records. I am basing it off of images of other examples of these rifles, which appear to be in much better condition than my own.
Secondly, and this is mostly why I joined this forum, I recall watching one of Mark Novak's videos on (perhaps an early Gewehr 88? Maybe a 98?), and he had mentioned his use of a rather mild acid to bring a receiver back to white, then neutralizing said acid to prevent any damage. That video no longer seems to exist on his channel since his division from C&Rsenal to his own channel. Does anybody have any idea what acid may have been used? Because my 71/88 is little more than a pile of what many consider to be "patina", and what I consider to be rust.
Thank you, guys! :beerchug:
-Justin
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They were in the white yes. Why don't you post some photos before you do anything. Patina is good, rust is bad. I generally just scrape rust off. It's been a very effective technique and doesn't disturb actual patina or finish on those that have one.
The problem with making any attempt to "bring back" the rifle often just makes things worse. The metal finish doesn't match the wood finish etc.
I have two Beumonts, the first I picked up cheap at a flea market. It was a sporterized version and I had no qualms with cleaning it up and I love how it now looks. Has no collector value but I didn't do it for collectors, I did it for me.
The second is all original.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...b09b78c5-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...4c9d70b5-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...29326a76-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=52107
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i just picked up a Beaumont, and I gotta say that I'm pretty impressed with the feel of it. The bolt is very smooth and the trigger is flat out amazing for the era, at least in comparison to the handful of other 1870s-1880s rifles that I have or have owned. It even feels nicer than various modern rifles I have handled. I am about to start reloading for it, thinking of using 348 Win cases or some new 50-110 I picked up.
I am all for very careful restoration (or historic preservation) as Mark Novak advocates for. I have done a few tasteful cleanups and rust blue resurrections that have turned out great. However, this 'in the white' thing is new to me. I did do this on the bolt collar of my Italian Vetterli using a white vinegar soak and it turned out ok, not great. A touch dull, though I think this is largely due to the quality/texture of the metal itself.
I wonder if something like muriatic acid would work better. But I'm totally ok with leaving this Beaumont alone with the exception of a thorough cleaning.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
RonnieMilsurp
muriatic acid
I've done lots with that but it's harsh and merciless. There will be nothing but steel left, and it'll be a flat color. Too, it will turn the metal a parkerized black quickly when quenched. I just did a 105mm projectile and had to wire brush it clean after. Longer you leave it in the darker it gets.
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You could try white vinegar to remove the rust. I would try it on something else, or an underneath area first. I also have a beaumont that needs some conservation work. I haven't decided if I want to bring it back like issued, or maybe use Marks boiling method to remove any rust. Any bluing result would be left, for preservation purposes.
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I've become a fan of the boiling method of rust conversion. Boiling in distilled or rain water for 45 minutes minimum will convert the rust to black oxide, easily removed with 4/0 steel wool which if done properly will not damage any of the existing metal finish.
It also serves the side purpose of removing any old solidified oil or grease/cosmolene trapped in the part. Keep an old spoon handy to scoop off what rises to the top.
Don't plan on reusing any pot for cooking the vessels should be dedicated to the purpose. I ended up with a nice score when my wife bought a new set of pots a couple of years ago and I kept the old set. I still don't have anything for barreled actions but am keeping my eyes open for one.
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Same here. I rigged up a piece of rain gutter for barrels and such, but will have to figure out a better heat source that will actually get the water in it to boil. The camp stove and/or Weber just can't cut it, at least in winter.
