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Timely comments as I have to re-cement an objective doublet from a Winchester A5. Haven't found a source of CB locally yet; might try some made for artists use.
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Well, if you can't find any (CB) there's not much hope for the rest of us!;)
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I used Canada balsam or equivalent for gluing coverslips to microscope slides of blood smears or tissue sections. its used widely. Modern equivalents are transparent for decades, older products may yellow with age. If you google laboratory pathology supplies Canada balsam you may have luck.
Rob
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That's pretty much what I did, Rob. I found some decent optical grade stuff on 'that internet auction site'.
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Rob (milsurp) if you want, I can spot you a bit.
Drop me a message on the home email addie.
cheers,
Warren
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And while we're here....... Just how badly can an amateur enthusiast damage the turret housing of a Mk3 trying to remove the jammed in clicker plungers. That is before he hastily reassembles it and send it to me (or one of the other repairers) to 'fix it please, because that's how I got it.....' Incidentally, there is a simple fix before you resort to trying to drill it out!
Interesting thread......
Incidentally, what Roger says about try to use a complete lens optical train from another scope before attempting to start a mix-and-match lens train from new. That has worked on 4 of the Israeli scopes I have here with defective lens assemblies
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You can buy chunks of dried Canadian Balsam (CB) at SURPLUS SHED in the USA and the UK....ask for Fred in the USA.
Just dissolve it in xylene and make a super saturated solution (will no longer absorb the dried chunks)
Just let it evaporate a bit to get the viscosity you want. Best done in a shed or outside because of the xylene vapours (not nice).
Just cover the bottle with a clean tissue to allow it to off gas.
My experience is that CB done this way will evaporate quicker than the regular stuff I have and it allows you to clean the edges and blacken them before re-installation in the tube.
The stuff I bought from them years ago was nice and clean and any impurities will settle out.
Hope this helps...
cheers
Warren
---------- Post added at 12:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:52 AM ----------
Peter: Always looking for guidance on the 32's and with the Mk.3 do you drill in from the side and/or bottom to remove the jammed detent?
I have had some that were jammed absolutely tight as they had been pounded in to the bottom and even heat and my secret lub :D would not move them.
Is there a masonic handshake, wear your secret squirrel ring or a way to hold your lips to get them out without drilling and then repairing the hole???
Always willing to learn......
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I've only tackled a small number of Mk3's so far, & whilst I have found a couple of clicker plungers seized in their housings I managed to get them freed up with a little gentle heat. Brass expands more than steel when heated up & I think the differential expansion allowed the penetrating oil to get through. I'm keen to learn any new tricks though!
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Thanks Warren! Email reply sent. Looked at Surplus Shed's online catalogue a few weeks back, but no listing for CB that I could find.