Removing Lee Enfield Firing Pins

I have a Lee Enfield firing pin tool, but it doesn't seem to work...does the No 4 and the No 1 use the same tool? Today I removed the screw that retains the firing pin on a No 4 Mk 2 bolt, then inserted the tool into the bolt over the firing pin. The two prongs went way down in but did not solidly engage with anything inside despite rotating it around and pushing down hard with it.
The prongs are a little bent and burred...perhaps the tool is NFG. I'd think you need a really solid engagement with the two prongs into whatever...is there a reasonably priced tool that works?

I've managed to twist the prongs off every tool that I've had; recut them for another try. If the prongs are slightly oversized, you can tap the tool into the notches in the firing pin shoulder for a tight fit. Might be worth trying penetrating oil on the cocking piece, or a judicious application of heat. Also give the tool a little twist to tighten the pin, then back off. This sometimes can help getting the firing pin threads moving. I must admit that I have encountered ones that I just couldn't unscrew.

What titiaq said. Not much you can do as most tools S_CK.

Worst case, get your gunsmith to give 'er a go ;)

Last one I did needed more than a little heat on the back end. The threads were definitely troubled. As I recall, they were BSF, and as the owner of a Bren gun carrier, I happen to have a few sets of these taps and dies.
It goes together much better with clean threads.

As an alternative to the tool, I have used a simple piece of steel tubing with the notches cut in to it. The weapons guys at work used to use the coleman stove generator tube, which featured a hex end so a wrench could be used on it. The tubing is not tool grade steel though, so if you cant get it with the proper tool, you likely won't get it using this method either.

I made one out of a bolt, I have a decent metal lathe so making one was not a big problem. It unfortunatley did not last long and I twisted off the fingers. the next one lasted longer and now I'm on number 3. Each one is getting a little better and beefier. So one day I will have the ultimate tool and I'll make one out of a 70 grade steel bolt.

I made one from a "roll pin" I got from Home Hardware and a grinding wheel.

The steel in the roll pin is stronger (but brittle) and I just put the cut roll pin in my vise to hold it and turn the bolt. Works fine.

Make one out of a nut driver. (screwdriver for nuts) I have one that will stick on the tapered pin, I didn't even have to grind it, I use it 'as is". Size is 3/16. It takes Enfield pins right out.

I just ordered a complete bolt assembly after the tool (with ample amounts of lube) didn't budge it....and I broke the tool.

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Originally Posted by Claven2

What titiaq said. Not much you can do as most tools S_CK.

Worst case, get your gunsmith to give 'er a go ;)

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And break his tools...;)

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Originally Posted by Richard47

Make one out of a nut driver. (screwdriver for nuts) I have one that will stick on the tapered pin, I didn't even have to grind it, I use it 'as is". Size is 3/16. It takes Enfield pins right out.

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Will this grip on the really really stuck ones? When the normal tools fail is on those, most on here have broken several of the tools. Got pics of this showing for example where it holds on a firing pin?

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Originally Posted by busdriver72

I just ordered a complete bolt assembly after the tool (with ample amounts of lube) didn't budge it....and I broke the tool.

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I bought a really nice tool recently, it worked easily on the first bolt I tried it on. Second bolt...wasn't moving and I made the decision to leave it as it was, I don't want to break the tool. I wonder if the threshold is, whatever you can get apart using a good tool by hand, take apart. Otherwise, maybe they were meant for each other...:eek:

Someone got into the fact that sometimes there's some nasty varnish on the threads plus some thread damage/burred threads that make it almost impossible to get apart.

Worst case, throuw the bolt into a can of diesel fuel and let it sit for a few weeks. Then try again. Inevitably, some of them will just never come apart. You could cut the firing pin off at the cocking piece and replace both the pin and cocking piece if you still can't salvage it. Only go that route though if you NEED to replace the pin or cocking piece due to wear or breakage, etc. Otherwise, leave it as is.

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Originally Posted by Claven2

Worst case, throuw the bolt into a can of diesel fuel and let it sit for a few weeks. Then try again. Inevitably, some of them will just never come apart. You could cut the firing pin off at the cocking piece and replace both the pin and cocking piece if you still can't salvage it. Only go that route though if you NEED to replace the pin or cocking piece due to wear or breakage, etc. Otherwise, leave it as is.

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Something occurs to me...If you pull the cocking piece back as far as it can go and clamp the firing pin shaft just behind the bolt with vice grips or similar, would you be able to just put an adjustable wrench on the cocking piece and thread it right off? That might work even on the really tough ones...or does the projection on the bottom of the cocking piece hit the bolt (I'm at work) ?. Maybe just that little bit of movement you can get by doing that would get it started moving...once apart you could clean up the vice grips marks on the pin.

Cutting the pin off and replacing the pin and cocking piece is another idea I hadn't thought of...might be worth it if you want to keep that numbers matching bolt on this rifle.

Try Kroil....

I have a plan to remove those impossible cocking pieces:

1) Remove firing pin retaining screw
2) Spray assembly with Kroil. ;)
3) Let soak awhile.......
4) Pull cocking piece out to maximum extent
5) Clamp Vice Grips 12LC on to firing pin near cocking piece with the non serrated portion right at nose in attempt not to mark the firing pin up
6) Using adjustable wrench, attempt to turn off the cocking piece counter clockwise- the setup of the bolt does allow for enough swing to get it turning
7) If it still won't move, use heat on cocking piece, hopefully just enough, not enough to bugger the finish and heat treatment- there is a sear contacting surface here after all...actually, for this reason perhaps it's better not to use heat...
8) If it still won't come off, use an angle grinder or Dremel tool with cutoff wheel to cut the firing pin off as far away from the cocking piece as possible, so you can clamp the firing pin remains in a vice- then it should be easy to thread it out of the cocking piece. This way you only lose the firing pin

https://www.milsurps.com/images/imported/deleted.gif

I use the firing pin removal tool that Brownells sells. Even with stubborn rusted in firing pins, It has always worked for me. I soak the whole bolt in tranny fluid for a day or two on real bad ones. Soaking in water also works sometimes if they are rusted bad. The water seems to re-activate the rust and makes dis-assembly a lot easier.

I made one out of 3/8 inch steel brake line. Used a bench grinder and dremel to cut the notches. I have used it successfully on three No.4`s but I have one bolt I gave up on. Haven`t tried real hard on that one yet.The nut driver sounds good.

Glad I learned of probable difficulties with Enfield f/pin removal AFTER I was finished!!
I just completed strip cleaning and reassembly of two No4-Mk1's [my first Enfields] acquired recently from "BIG5" - as I've learned from experience with other bolt-action milsurps I soaked both bolts in "CLP- Breakfree" for a couple days while working/cleaning on other parts of the rifles. Both bolts came apart/reassembled easily using a tool included with an Enfield "accessory kit" from SARCO. I think the preliminary "soaking" was probably the key to success here.??

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Originally Posted by robertscheib

Glad I learned of probable difficulties with Enfield f/pin removal AFTER I was finished!!
I just completed strip cleaning and reassembly of two No4-Mk1's [my first Enfields] acquired recently from "BIG5" - as I've learned from experience with other bolt-action milsurps I soaked both bolts in "CLP- Breakfree" for a couple days while working/cleaning on other parts of the rifles. Both bolts came apart/reassembled easily using a tool included with an Enfield "accessory kit" from SARCO. I think the preliminary "soaking" was probably the key to success here.??

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It sure didn't hurt...but some of them do come apart very easily, some of them are well nigh impossible...depends if it's your day...;)

Try this way :

Without a tool you can remove the pin :
Unscrew / Remove bolt head.
Put the bolt body in a padded vise, pull back the cocking piece, clamp the pin (between the bolt body and the cocking piece) with a set of locking pliers (mole grips) and unscrew the pin. Beware - You may cause damage to the pin if it is very tight and the molegrips slip.
But it worked well for me on a No1

I made one out of a 1/4" drive 5mm deep well socket and my Dremel tool.

Good morning, this is my first post on this site so be gentle:) During there long service life these rifles some times would have the firing pins come loose. When the armmor found a loose fireing pin he would peen the end of the pin to tighten it up, that is the reasion that some will come out and some will not. Also the no.1 and the no.4 have identical pins except for the thread pitch. the no. 1 is based on the enfield inch and the no.4 is BSF this can cause problems if a No.1 firing pin is screwed into a no. 4 cocking peice and visa-versa. If the pin is peened TIGHTEN it up and file all the way around the end of the pin to remove the mushroomed metel. If the threads dont match you will have to heat up the cocking peice to get it off. It should not take a lot of heat.
You will have to excuse the spelling the spell checker isn't working but I think you will get my meaning.

I've made the firing pin tool out of a piece of 1/8 NPT pipe. Filed the outside to clear the threads inside the bolt body, then cut the teeth again with the file.Case hardened with kasenit and used JB weld on the other threaded end to screw into a 1/8 NPT "T" fitting. Then two more 3" long NPT nipples in the "T" fitting and your done. The case hardening was done after the first tool had the
first set of teeth shear off while trying to remove a stubborn enfield firing pin. One good tip. I usually put the cocking piece in between two small oak blocks and then into a vise. The oak protects the cocking piece from the jaws of the vise. And while in the vise you can apply more torque than holding it in your hand. Also prevents forcing the cocking piece up against the slot in the bolt body and possible damage. If it breaks (firing pin tool) just make another. But so far has held up very well. Also, sometimes the recess on the firing pin may have burrs on them. It helps to remove these burrs and prevent damage to the threads on the cocking piece. I have a long branch bolt that the locking screw for the cocking piece will not go all the way into its hole. Reason, large burr where the recess on the firing pin was machined. Need a carbide burr and dremel to remove it to prevent damage to the threads. Frank

Yes, I was going to mention the different thread issue, but you beat me to it.

Don't ask me how I learned about it!

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Originally Posted by tomjw3

Good morning, this is my first post on this site so be gentle:) During there long service life these rifles some times would have the firing pins come loose. When the armmor found a loose fireing pin he would peen the end of the pin to tighten it up, that is the reasion that some will come out and some will not. Also the no.1 and the no.4 have identical pins except for the thread pitch. the no. 1 is based on the enfield inch and the no.4 is BSF this can cause problems if a No.1 firing pin is screwed into a no. 4 cocking peice and visa-versa. If the pin is peened TIGHTEN it up and file all the way around the end of the pin to remove the mushroomed metel. If the threads dont match you will have to heat up the cocking peice to get it off. It should not take a lot of heat.
You will have to excuse the spelling the spell checker isn't working but I think you will get my meaning.

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From what I've read here about diasembeling the lee enfield bolt there could just be more that what we are seeing. I recently bought a 1942 long branch and as is my usual routine with a new rifle, I completely disasemble it for a through clean and inspect. About the only thing I could not do was remove the cocking piece from the bolt. In a good strong light it was noticed that when the circular cut was made for the screw head the threads themselves were cut and not too evenly. In fact in my case I had to resort to using one of the dremel tools tiny grinding bits to clean things up. The way the threads were buggered up they would have interferred with trying to screw the cocking piece off the back end of the firing pin. I wnt to the garage and set the bolt between two blocks of wood. Then very carefully ground away any damage probably done by the gent running the machine caused while cutting the relief for the retaining screw. Once I had it apart, I cleaned up the threads with a triangular needle file and just before reinstalling the firing pin I liberally coated the threads with never seize. And scrubbed out the threaded hole in the cocking piece with an old bore brush and then oiled the threads. So for a few minutes work I can now take the firing pin out with no further problems. But having experience in working with steam powered machinery I can say that on some occasions there is nothing like a good application of heat. If that came to pass, I'd whip out my trusty coleman propane tank and torch and apply the heat to the area of the cocking piece where the threads run through it. You really don't want to get it too hot like glowing red, but a good heat so as to expand the metal and have whatever gunk is in ther release its grip on the threads. Then clean both the threaded section of the firing pin and the threaded hole in the cocking piece. I use pipe cleaners soaked with kroil and run a old bore brush to scrub the remaining gunk that still might be in there. Then clean both parts and oil and reassemble in reverse order. Frank

The firing pin on the Ishapore 2A I bought was badly eroded from a pierced primer - it looked like an ice pick. I made a removal tool from 1/4" automotive tubing, cutting the prongs with a file. The prongs must line up perfectly so don't hesitate to bend or recut them.

As an alternative to torch heating the firing pin, try freeze-thawing the bolt a few times. The concept is the same, but without the risk of destroying of the heat treatment. Once the bolt is back at room temperature, try to remove the pin.
Spraying the thread area with upside down "dust remover" spray is effective. Wear gloves and goggles. A minimum of exposed skin is the goal -long sleeves etc. Do not aspirate the fumes. Do this in a well ventilated area. Also, don't drop the bolt when it is frozen. depending what you are using to cool the bolt, and the steel, it may be very brittle. There are reports of steel from some of the WWII liberty ships becoming brittle at temperatures close to the freezing point of water.
If you give the bolt a generous coat of penetrating oil beforehand, some might wick into the threads as it thaws. This will also help protect against condensation.
If freeze/thawing does not work after a few tries, then try torch heating. The combination of techniques may do what either does not.
I learned this trick from an auto mechanic friend of mine who uses it to remove seized bolts from gas tanks. for obvious reasons the application of heat to these areas is problematic.

As an alternative to torch heating the firing pin, try freeze-thawing the bolt a few times. The concept is the same, but without the risk of destroying of the heat treatment. Once the bolt is back at room temperature, try to remove the pin.
Spraying the thread area with upside down "dust remover" spray is effective. Wear gloves and goggles. A minimum of exposed skin is the goal -long sleeves etc. Do not aspirate the fumes. Do this in a well ventilated area. Also, don't drop the bolt when it is frozen. depending what you are using to cool the bolt, and the steel, it may be very brittle. There are reports of steel from some of the WWII liberty ships becoming brittle at temperatures close to the freezing point of water.
If you give the bolt a generous coat of penetrating oil beforehand, some might wick into the threads as it thaws. This will also help protect against condensation.
If freeze/thawing does not work after a few tries, then try torch heating. The combination of techniques may do what either does not.
I learned this trick from an auto mechanic friend of mine who uses it to remove seized bolts from gas tanks. for obvious reasons the application of heat to these areas is problematic.

This past week I had a No 4 bolt in the shop that need to be disassembled. The firing pin quickly destroyed a quality bolt disassembly tool. Rather than risk damaging any parts and wrecking any more tools I decided to make in effect a miniature barrel clamp for a Lee Enfield firing pin. Below is a drawing of the clamping blocks I machined. I used T6 Aluminum. The two blocks were cut and then clamped together in the drill press. A .020 spacer was placed between the faces of the two blocks. This allows for a squeeze gap when used. A hole was centered on the spacer seem .030 from the end of the blocks. If you exceed .030 from the end you will restrict how much room you have to rotate the cocking piece. Restrict the height of the blocks to no more than .475 or they will not clear the cam lobe on the cocking piece.

To use, remove lock screw. Pull cocking piece all the way to the rear and rotate so that the cam lobe rests on the back of the bolt body. Clean and dry the shaft and blocks. Place the blocks on the exposed shaft making sure you are clear the cam lobe. Clamp down on the blocks. I used a receiver wrench with the blocks turned over flat. A small vice will work just make sure you do not clamp or damage bolt handle or ball. I used an 8 inch crescent with taped jaws to grasp the cocking piece. I first turned slowly a bit to tighten. Then reverse to remove. Now remove from blocks and try a standard bolt tool. If it is still too tight for a standard bolt tool put it back in the blocks and index so you can unscrew it more. Just keep indexing so if you need you can completely remove with the blocks. Hope this helps someone and saves a firing pin and cocking piece.

JBS is spot on for the ultimate firing pin clamp. If it still wants to slip, introduce a touch of abrasive compound on the clamping surfaces. (A messy last resort!) Have also made a conventional tool out of 17-4ph 180-200kpsi material that has lasted near on 20 years!

I made a tool from silver steel ,hardened and tempered it. Soak thread with
Kroil then place tool in chuck of a drill press ,hold bolt with soft jaws in a vice,
then with a steady downward pressure of the drill press use Tee handle of tool to screw out the striker/firing pin
The no 1 mk 3 have a 30tpi and the no4 mk 1/2 have 26 tpi BSF

I just received my tool in the mail. At first, it wouldn't budge. Threw a little Hoppe's No. 9 lubricating oil down the pin, and worked it back and forth for about 20 minutes. Came right out for me, minimal effort.