M1 Military Oil ?

Now that you have your WW2 or any of your Collectable Firearms in pieces and ready to put back, i live right next to the Gulf Coast where the Humidity is very high. What do you think is the best oil to use, not heavey so dust don't stick to it or not watery so it doesn't dry before you put it back. When i was in the Military in the early 80's the Corp had already switched to CLP from LSA cause they said the petroleum-based was not good in Cold Weather and the Teflon was better, but i dont see it at the Gun Stores or Academy, but what Hopps brand comes close to it or any Brand. There just sections of oil at Academy but i would like to get the best one. Or can you still find that Military Oil to buy ?

I think Remington has an oil with Teflon in it. Then there is Break Free. It works very well too and it's still accepted by NATO.

You don't need to buy some special expensive oil. You can go down to the sports store and get gun oil, or a good hardware store and get the lightest machine oil they have. It works out the same. Refer to your training on care and cleaning for your A2 in various climates...and daily cleaning means that. Not several times a year. A fine coat of light oil for short term storage will do fine. I doubt your house has the dust passing through that your modular tentage did...with Hummers and M1 Abrams' rolling past.

The problem with the mixed Break free is the two separate again after application. We stopped using it after a few years because of that. How can something need to be mixed for application and then magically stay together after application...?

Jim, I remember if you weren't cleaning your Weapon you better be doing something especially before and where you know i was. But remember most of my rifle shooting is at my ranch and even at the indoor range you can see that powder residue in the air. Will that hardware store oil like 3 in 1 work or use that Remington. I never use the oil that comes in cheap cleaning kits, but would like to find the oil we used in the Military. Thanks

Frank

'How can something need to be mixed for application and then magically stay together after application...?'

It doesn't. During and after application the liquid solvents evaporate leaving behind the slower-evaporating elements including the Teflon wax. You could use CLP on a carbine but for a collectible one you want to stay with products more like what was used in the '40s; linseed oil on the wood and machine oil on the steel. Actually 3 in 1 oil is not a bad idea for the carbine. The principle ingredient is high-speed spindle oil.

Before you go out into the dusty conditions on the ranch just wipe your carbine mostly clean of oil. That's what the doctrine for desert is and your place down south would be close in the summer...like Inland says, 3-in-1 is good too.

The CLP was the prophet's dream when it came out...and then we discovered when used during firing part of it boiled off and the rest turned to gum. We've been using CLP22 for about 20 years now, and it resembles the older light weight rifle oil that was made by Esso or Imperial Oil. That was for the FNs though...it all disappeared before CLP came in. Then the C7(M16A2) and CLP arrived...to save us...what a shamozzle that was. Now we're back to basic oil.

I like the Remington Gun Oils and I have used it for years without any problems. (JMHO)

Most sporting goods carry Remington oil, as do most (Uhg) Walmarts.

~ Harlan

Attachment 59293 Ever try this, you can only find it online. Does everything, clean it, and lube it !

Maybe it would work. I've heard of Ballistoll but have no experience with it.

The can says it works on leather, wood, and rubber too. I wonder what it is made of? (Silicone or something?)

Ballistol (meaning 'Ballistic Oil') is a mineral oil-based chemical which advertises that it has many uses. It was originally intended for cleaning, lubricating, and protecting firearms. The product originated from Germany before World War I, after the German military requested an 'all-around' oil and cleaner for their rifles and equipment. The German military used it from 1905 to 1945.

The chemical is a yellowish clear liquid with a consistency expected of a light oil. However, when it comes in contact with water it emulsifies, becoming a thick creamy white substance. It has a sweet and mildly pungent smell similar to black licorice. It is distributed in liquid and aerosol forms. The aerosol uses butane or propane as a propellant.

It advertises it has no carcinogens. Some other similar chemicals contain petro-chemicals which can pollute the environment if improperly handled, and can damage the 'seasoning' developed on the bore of a black-powder gun.

Here is an Excellent Video

Ballistol / Hoppes 9 / Break Free CLP - YouTube

Excellent comparison. Well worth your time to watch. Thanks, John

Does okay on metal, don't use it on leather

Ballistol actually would be wonderful on the carbine but tends to shine wood because of the paraffin. Its ability to form an emulsion with water when in the liquid state has been a boon to shooters of corrosive ammo because it turns out that it is the best thing there is for cleaning/neutralizing corrosive salts. Over the long term, everything evaporates except the paraffin, which remains a soft, white waxy gel which never hardens or gums. It is excellent for wood and leather but 'wets' leather, which darkens it. However, the leather usually will lighten over time. It is excellent for rubber, plastics and paint. I have soaked old rusty pistols in it, grips and all, to ease disassembly.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rustship

Attachment 59293 Ever try this, you can only find it online. Does everything, clean it, and lube it !

---

I use Ballistol, also. GREAT cleaner for corrosive ammo and black powder. An ounce in a cup of water makes "Moose Milk" with is awesome for BP cleaning.. The Germans used it in WW I to glean and lube weapons, leather, and wood stocks. They even used it as a topical antiseptic.

I just watched the video, and Ballistol is better than I thought. When I shot black powder cartridge in Cowboy Action Shooting, I cleaned ALL of the weapons and even the brass with "Moose Milk" made from Ballistol.

The Ballistol works great on carbon fouling. I use it now on AR15s, and it cleans the bolt carrier group better than Breakfree CLP. I also use it on my AK and HK91 clone. It eats the carbon on the piston of the AK and the fouling from the delayed roller block blow back of the HK system.

Hoppes Elite and M-Pro7 solvents are also excellent for removing carbon. - Bob

Amazon sells the 16 ounce can of liquid Ballistol with a pumper squirt for about $20 shipped, Amazon prime. I just squirt it on, brush it, run a couple wet patches, then wipe it down with a Ballistol dampened cloth (an old silicone cloth). The 16 ounces can lasts a long time.I have never had any rust, even when I spent the 18 months in Mississippi awhile back.

How would transmission fluid fit into the picture?

I need to remove a wrong sight from the receiver on my latest M1 thats been on for years. I got this oil (Kano Kroil). I was searching for some oil to use and read about this a couple of times. I was going to put some on overnight or longer and let sit. Will this oil do anythig to ruin the finish or is there anything safer or better to use for this task. Thanks

Frank
Semper Fi

It shouldn't hurt the finish at all...

Thanks Jim, I heard it was good, but I was reading what it contains and thought maybe someone had used it before and would offer some information about it.

Frank
SF