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    Legacy Member frankderrico's Avatar
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    More Stock Work By Frank

    We're haveing another winter snow storm so I've been working in the hideout. Here are some of my projects. An OI oval cut, was highwood cut down type two with a major crack. Two M2's with cracks and missing pieces.
    After intial cleaning I use a two part bleach to get out realy stuborn dirt, stains and old oil.
    Attachment 20751Attachment 20752Attachment 20753
    Then it's time to see what has to be fixed.
    Attachment 20754Attachment 20755Attachment 20756
    Gluing and clamping are next. I use three different glues arcording to the issuses.
    Attachment 20747Attachment 20748Attachment 20749Attachment 20750
    Threaded brass pin repairs. I drill a pilot hole and coat the pin with super glue and drill it in. Got to work fast once you start. Cut off the pin and three different files to bring it down. Carefull at the end not to ding the stock.
    Attachment 20761Attachment 20760Attachment 20759Attachment 20758Attachment 20757
    Patching missing wood. I try to find meterial that matches in color, sometimes it hard to find. I have to open up the patch on the stock so as to get a good tight fit with the patch. Patches are oversized and then worked down to match the spot being fixed.
    Attachment 20766Attachment 20763Attachment 20765Attachment 20762Attachment 20764
    I keep some shavings to mix with super glue to fill holes. After it sets up I work it down with a file to meet the original wood.
    Attachment 20767
    Last job before oiling is burnishing the stock. Got that tip off the "Restorers Corner". I don't like to use sand paper or steel wool.
    Then start with the oil. I may use a little stain. Both M2's needed some color.
    Attachment 20769Attachment 20772Attachment 20770
    After I plow snow this afternoon I'll put another coat of oil on.
    These stocks needed some major work, not all repairs require this much effort. They are now as strong or stronger then berfore. They will never crack or break were they have been glued and pinned.....Frank
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    Last edited by frankderrico; 02-22-2011 at 12:44 PM.

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    Looks like Great work Frank, did not know you were a carpenter.

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    Frank, you mentioned three different glues. What do you use for which issue? I have settled on Gorilla Wood Glue for just about all my repairs.

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    Ed, I use regular Gorilla glue alot both yellow and white, Gorilla epoxy and super glue.
    If I can open up the crack (I use screw driver bits to spread a crack, smaller and up) then insert dental floss, spread in the Gorilla glue and work it in with the floss. Clamp and let sit overnight. The overflow cleans up easy with a razor blade.
    I use super glue where I can't get the spread/floss because it likes to seep into the repair. Be ready to work much faster though because of the quick set up time. Super glue can also be built up on a repair, think layering it on. This is more difficult to clean up and takes more time.
    I like Gorrila glue epoxy for patching, you have your patch clamps and glue ready, stick them together and clamp, don't get epoxy on the clamp and you have a strong bond.
    I have used both the epoxy and super glue on threaded pins. You have more time with epoxy, and very little time with super glue.

    HTH.....Frank
    Last edited by frankderrico; 02-21-2011 at 09:09 PM.

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    Frank, I will keep all that in mind. I haven't tried anything as major as you have, just the minor cracks. I do have 2 stocks which I really should be working on, but we all know how that goes... LOL...

    Like the work you're doing!!!

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    Great work Frankie!!!

    Look out Charlie
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    Outstanding illustrated tutorial Frank! Thanks for putting it together.

    ~ Harlan

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    Harlan, thank you. More to come.
    Bill, thank you. I get alot of advice from Painter on the side.
    TR, take it a step at a time, once you start you won't stop until your done. Then the good feelings.
    Rusty, ever need some stock help, I'm here.
    One more note. In pic 1 of pin repairs (the picture with the pin in the driver) I have marked the depth of the hole with a SHARPIE, very important that you go slow steady and only as deep as the pilot hole.....Frank

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    I've done a lot of stocks but the one I'm working on now is giving me fits trying to find a stain that looks right. I've used my old standby Min-Wax walnut, Red Oak, Red Mahogany...in various mixes and amounts.. and the stock still has that grayish look to it, only darker depending on strength of the stain. Just can't get that reddish tint on it. I put it on, take it off, start all over again. I'm reluctant to use the dye stains as they are nearly impossible to remove if they don't turn out.

    Any suggestions?

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    Legacy Member frankderrico's Avatar
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    ulflyer, what kind of wood is it?

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