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  1. #1
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    Reloading problem

    I have just bought a No 4T and have decided to have a go at reloading for the first time. I am having a problem with the cases not fitting back into the chamber? They are once fired PPU brass and have been fired in the same rifle. They sit about 2mm short of where they need to be and I don't want to try and force them in. This is before I put them through the dies I have.
    I have a set of new Hornaday dies but not a full length re-sizing die.
    I know Lee produce a deluxe set of dies that may do the trick. Does anyone know if these will work or do I need to look elsewhere for a solution.
    Thanks Derek
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    Sizing should fix it up. If the round has been used in the rifle you're reloading for the neck sizing should be fine. I've done it heaps and it's not a problem. It is common to need to full length size after a few firings neck sizing only, as the case length somehow slowy increases. The most reliable sizing of cases for function is full length sizing, but nek sizing is fine too. You'll probably need a full length die down the track too though.
    Don't worry about not being able to chamber the fired case, run it through the die and it'll be fine, if not, better get the full length die sooner!
    BTW if you do go to a full length die keep a close eye on the case length as they grow beyond the maximum length very quickly, needing a trim. Another plus to running a neck sizer only.

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    303s are notorius for case base swell. If you don't full length resize you may never get them back in. If it's a new chamber cut with a good reamer it may work with neck only. I wouldn't use Lee products unless there was nothing else. If you're buying, get RCBS and there will be no problems. If you bend a decapping pin with Lee for instance, you need a whole new assembly. With RCBS, you change the pin. If you're going to reload you will need to trim all the time. You can't get into this ankle deep. It's all or nothing. Get hold of someone that's done a great deal of loading and get lessons. Buy the manuals and read them. About three would do. Then your ready to start asking questions. Otherwise you have no basis to start from. This area should not be entered blind.
    Regards, Jim

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    No reason why a case which extracted easily could be too big to fit in again. The brass always springs back to a smaller size after firing. So what came out, must go back again. And without a struggle...

    Hmm.... sometimes it is difficult to close a bolt over an empty case because the extractor claw has to click over the rim in the almost-closed-bolt position.
    If so, one solution is to put the cases in the magazine so the extractor claw slips naturally over the rim as it feeds up out of the mag. You may need to steer the case mouth into the chamber with your finger because the bullet is missing. Or you may need to do the fitting of the extractor claw over the rime by hand. Main thing is that the claw should be over the rim before you close the bolt.
    Try it and see?

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    Thanks for the info guys. I haven't made up any viable rounds as yet. I want to make sure everything is sized and fits OK. I am going to the Phoenix at Bisley on Sunday and will see if I can pick up a decent set of dies there. Then I guess it's looking at what propelant to use and the the load size!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by RobD View Post
    If so, one solution is to put the cases in the magazine so the extractor claw slips naturally over the rim as it feeds up out of the mag.
    I always do that when single shot loading anyway. I reckon that it puts less strain on the extractor claw and extractor claw spring - and it feels better.

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    Hi Derek
    At the Phoenix
    - bullets: ask for the flying Dutchman and buy a bag of Prvi Partisan bullets 174 grain.
    - powder: find Norman Clark gunsmiths and buy Vihtavuori N140. Most people love this powder for .303, I do too. I use 40 grains. It's not the cheapest but it is wonderful stuff.
    - Dies: get a neck sizing die and a bullet seating die (Lee or Lyman)
    - Have you got some once-fired brass? If not, PM me and I'll bring you 100 Prvi cases (I'll be there Saturday).

    atb
    Rob

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    Re powder, when you ask around there will be 2 or so types everyone uses and they'll both be fine. I also agree with BROWNING... that it's all or nothing, but you can start with the starter kit and buy the extra tools when you need them, so long as you really do get them when you need them. Also it's critical to read these reloading manuals front to back and thoroughly understand what you're doing and whats going on. I particularly like the Speer manual.
    Realoding makes better ammo, and I enjoy it, and i load all them ammo I shoot, but if you get it wrong or make a mistake the consequences can be very serious.

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    There's nothing wrong with Lee dies, 27 of the 43 sets of dies I own are Lee's, with one set of Reddings thrown in for good effect. My one dislike for RCBS dies all centers around the design of the decapping rod, on the older ones with the collet type retainer the headless pin is held in by friction and seems to want to pull every time a case with a tight or off centered flash hole is encountered but at least if it broke it could be replaced with the shank of a .062'' drill bit and all was well. On the new style RCBS dies the pin looks like a small nail and won't pull out but the expander ball will work loose and let it wobble around get broken. As long as you tighten the peace outta the nut the holds the decapping rod in a Lee die you won't have any problems.

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    when I started reloading .303 I had one of the Lee dies, where you bash it in & out. The casings would never fit in the rifle, real tight fit, and maybe you could force them with the bolt. bought a RCBS die, ran the casings through, and they plop right in. I just use the decapping rod from the Lee dies now.
    just my 2 cents

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