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Thread: Any info regarding Stain or dye remover?

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    Any info regarding Stain or dye remover?

    Have an old SMLE No1 Mk111* fore-end that has had dye or stain on some parts looks like it was spilt, dont know what it is was etc, but is really dark.

    Does anyone know anything that will lighten it or neutralize it ?
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    Most of the paint strippers note whether it will also remove stain.

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    As a matter of course, staining can rarely be removed completely once it has penetrated below the surface. Yes paint stripper will remove some of it and you can try to sand down through it but it's a virtual guarantee there will be lot of wood needing to be removed via sanding or scraping. Unless you are very adept, you'll be sorry you attempted it as contours etc will very likely be compromised in the effort.

    The other thought worthy of consideration would be to mix up some Fiebing leather dye and keep applying it until you get a color match over the rest of the stock which will effectively obscure the original staining. Still got your contours intact and a whole lot less effort involved. Just go slow and have a piece of walnut or beech to practice on before you apply the Fiebing dye to the stock.

    I had quite good success helping a friend restore a water damaged stock a few years ago. The stock was irreplaceable and thus worth the effort involved. The Fiebings did the trick and the restain was virtually undetectable once completed and re oil finished.

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    I agree that they can be impossible to remove with out removing the stained material. One option, a last resort, could be to bleech the timber set with bleech and peroxide and then stain the whole lot back to where you want it. A lot of work, but it will SERIOUSLY give you a blank canvass on which to work.

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    Thanks guys, thought I was flogging a dead horse, Tried paint stripper but havent tried the Shelac and varnish remover yet. Tom do reckon neat bleech?

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    Bigduke, you can pour bleech on that stock til the chickens come to roost and still not lighten up the stain one whit. Best course of action will be to

    * Apply paint stripper, scrub stock with 0000 steel wool.
    * Apply liquid dish detergent and wash stock with lukewarm water.
    * Set the stock outside on a nice warm day to dry thoroughly.
    * Lightly buff now raw wood with 0000 steel wool. If ya wanna lightly sand it with 320 grit to lightly smooth things out, then go ahead but be sensible and back it with a block or a chunk of old dish sponge cut to size---sponges fold so they will follow the contour of the stock real good.
    *Mix up and apply the Fiebings leather dye with another piece of dish sponge. Mix to match. Wipe the stain following the long axis of the stock and run from end to end never stopping until you reach the end of the stock. Overlap coats until the stock is completely covered. IF stock is beech, recommend for light stock color try "Buckskin" (A perfect match for Brit color!!!, or "Chocolate" plus a bit of "USMC Black to match the darker beech color used by BSA.
    *Allow Fiebings to dry for 24 hours .
    *Rub in 2 heavy coats of "Linspeed". This stuff goes under surface and hardens and allows a nice handrubbed BLOicon final finish. After dry, buff with a piece of old towel until all residue is off the stock.
    * Over the next few weeks, apply BLOicon until the stock will not take anymore and the BLO gums on the wood surface. When that occurs, the stock is saturated and can now be towelled off with a junk rag and buffed to a military grade shine.

    Trust me, this'll work. Done if many many times and I speak from firsthand experience. My results are so close to original in appearance, they will regularly fool the experts until they are told its a refinish/restoration.

    Good luck. I've had my say.

    *
    Last edited by barbarossa; 09-15-2011 at 10:05 PM.

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    Just bleech and bleech and peroxide are completely different animals. Bleech and peroxide gives an aggresive bleeching reaction that is a whole world apart from the effect the bleech alone can have. Irreversable and with s down side but supremely effective.

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    I don't know if the product is still made or not. But "Zip-Strip" (yellow and black can) was one of the few products i found that would remove stain. I did my kitchen cabinets. They stained very dark but i managed to get them to a light honey color.

    A lot of these products seem to have been regulated out of existence in the US in recent years,

    Regards,
    Jim

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    They do make specific wood bleaches that I've found pretty effective removing both oil and stain. Should be able to find it at any store that sells paint. Home Depot and Lowes generally stock it. It may require two or even three applications but it should do the trick. It even removed very dark water stains. When applying it, it may appear that it is not working but once it dries you will notice a marked difference. Generally after the first treatment, the only areas requiring further treatments are the stained areas themselves.

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    As far as bleach is concerned, what you're looking for at the hardware/big box store is OXALIC ACID, which comes as a crystalline powder - usually in a box. After you have removed all of the finish (varnish, shellac, etc.) and are down to the unadorned wood and remnants of stain, mix the Oxalic Acid wood bleach with hot water per the instructions on the container and commence to scrubbing the wood. Allow the wood to dry between applications and to sit in the sun, if possible while drying.....it will become lighter with each application. When the desired result has been achieved, wash the wood with a mixture of clean hot water and vinegar to neutralize the effects of the acid and allow it to dry FOR AT LEAST 48 HOURS. You can then start applying whatever finish you want. I was a furniture refinisher for many years and they don't call the wood on guns "furniture" for nothing........lol. Butch

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