M1 Garand accuracy help

[Twinson]

I have an M1 Garand that had walking groups due to the stock touching the barrel on the left side near the chamber. I relieved that and no more walking groups but I still have a few flyers. My next area of concern is the rear hand guard to stock fit. With the rifle assembled and the trigger guard locked into position, I can slide a piece of paper between the rear handguard bottom and the stock top (where they meet just in front of the clip latch). But I can't slip the paper between the rear handguard and the stock on the right up toward the stock ferrule. My question is, should I relieve some wood from the front area of the rear handguard where is is contacting the stock so I can slide the paper between the two pieces?

As of now I have the rear handguard floated on the barrel from the retaining clip to the middle band.

I have the rear of the hand guard relieved front the front face of the receiver.

I have the front hand guard relieved from the gas cylinder.

I have the stock floating from the barrel.

So the only palce the barrel contacts anything is at the middle band and front handguard ferrule.

With the pressure of the rear handguard on the stock, I figured that might be affecting something. What do you gentalman think? Thank you, James.

Information

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[geberl]

I set mine up so the rear handguard only touches two things, the lower band and the clip. I relieve the underneath except where the clip is located, don't allow it to touch the stock or the reciever. Same with the front handguard, no contact with the op rod, barrel, or gas cylinder. Stock ferrule should only contact the stock and lower band, no contact with the op rod. Barrel floats in the stock and handguards basically from end to end, the op rod should lightly engage the stock on the right to buffer itself, no where else and neither handguard. That's how my wood is configured and it has worked well for me, if I'm still having trouble with a rifle I'd already set up then I go to the gas system, re check the tilt test and if that didn't help then I'd start gauging everything. Most accuracy problems I've had with a decent barrel and tight lock up, have come from wood not fitting as above, gas system, or op rod, sure a loose rear sight will cause problems but have never had one work loose.

[Gus Fisher]

I'd also check for any rubs in the inside of the stock after firing.

[Rick H.]

Hello: I was under the impression that you don't want the op rod to touch the stock at all, however if I read correctly, you DO want the op rod to contact the inner stock on the right side to buffer the rod during operation....is this correct??? Rick

[DaveHH]

It can move back and forth slightly. It is OK for them to rattle in their respective place. I did this to my good M1 and it shot 100 yd groups 5 shots inside a 25 cent piece, and many times. If that top (rear) handguard is too tight the barrel has no where to go when it heats and wants to rise a bit.

[Griff Murphey]

RE a similar post just below, someone recounted my difficulties at the Texas State Hi Power Matches in 2007. I was all over the place at 200 and 300. In desperation I decided to CLEAN the rifle before 600. While using the cleaning rod I contacted the front sight, which moved back and forth easily 1/8" left to right. It had shot loose in the last stages of practice before the match but I had thought, "It is just me..." The next thing was to find an Allen wrench that fit it; very difficult; mine had disappeared from my kit, praise be to an MD from Houston who had a full set of the things. At 600 I shot something like a 93 and an 88, nothing fabulous but a heckuva lot better than I HAD been doing. CHECK THAT FRONT SIGHT!