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  1. #21
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    Aragorn... That's a nice RC, especially for the price you paid. I would leave it as is except putting a front sight hood on it. Good shooting.

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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    a very nice rifle. reading this thread got me so excited about mine i decided to join the forums.

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  5. #23
    Contributing Member Aragorn243's Avatar
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    I have the rifle fully outfitted now. The final parts arrived yesterday. It is now complete with a sight hood, sling and locking screws.

    One question regarding the locking screws. The front screw went in fine. The rear screw required me to back out the main screw about 1/4 turn to get it lined up. It would not go any tighter.

    Would it be better if the screw were tight for accuracy purposes and if so would it be better to shim it slightly to tighten the screw or shave a bit out so it turns to the next groove.

    I've gotten several emails about how I got the shellac off. I learned a long time ago from a furniture restorer to scrape off the old finishes rather than using chemical strippers. As the shellac on these RC's is not bonded very well to the surface this works extremely well on every Russianicon reworked rifle I've tried it with. Just use an old pocket or paring knife you aren't overly concerned with the edge and use it as a scraper. Do not hold the knife in a manner that would allow it to cut the wood and only use the minimal pressure needed to cause the finish to flake off. I can strip an entire stock in about an hour with this method

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    Quote Originally Posted by 303Nut View Post
    Aragorn... That's a nice RC, especially for the price you paid. I would leave it as is except putting a front sight hood on it. Good shooting.
    I agree! Very nice looking RC and VERY good price!
    (I'd rather have an RC than a MM, even for the same price)

    I think I paid $275 for my RC and it didn't turn out that nice.
    I hate the sights too, and mine seems to kick like a mule too. I think it's more of a the design of the way the comb fits my cheek (?)

    My 1903A3 doesn't seem to kick at all in comparison, and the 1903A3 sights are much easier for my old eyes, but there's definitely still something 'cool' about the K98icon!

  8. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aragorn243 View Post
    I have the rifle fully outfitted now. The final parts arrived yesterday. It is now complete with a sight hood, sling and locking screws.

    One question regarding the locking screws. The front screw went in fine. The rear screw required me to back out the main screw about 1/4 turn to get it lined up. It would not go any tighter.

    Would it be better if the screw were tight for accuracy purposes and if so would it be better to shim it slightly to tighten the screw or shave a bit out so it turns to the next groove.

    I've gotten several emails about how I got the shellac off. I learned a long time ago from a furniture restorer to scrape off the old finishes rather than using chemical strippers. As the shellac on these RC's is not bonded very well to the surface this works extremely well on every Russianicon reworked rifle I've tried it with. Just use an old pocket or paring knife you aren't overly concerned with the edge and use it as a scraper. Do not hold the knife in a manner that would allow it to cut the wood and only use the minimal pressure needed to cause the finish to flake off. I can strip an entire stock in about an hour with this method
    Some finishes are tough removal projects. However, shellac is not. I would think it far more likely to damage a stock by scraping than by using denatured alcohol since shellac will simply wash off with it.

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    Contributing Member Aragorn243's Avatar
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    Jim,

    If you aren't paying attention to what you're doing, you can damage wood by scraping but the way I do it is pretty harmless. All it is doing is putting slight pressure on the shellac and as it does not give, it breaks away.

    I've tried various chemicals over the years, those especially made to remove finishes and had no success with any of them. They turned everything into a gooey mess that 3 different coatings still required me to in the end, scrape off what was left, but then, there was risk of damage as the mess remained somewhat of a goo and you were actually scraping off a bit of wood along with the goo to get it off.

    Denatured alcohol was one that I haven't tried so it may be worth a shot. But I've had very good success with my method as well with no ill effects.

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    Legacy Member kar98k's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aragorn243 View Post
    Jim,

    If you aren't paying attention to what you're doing, you can damage wood by scraping but the way I do it is pretty harmless. All it is doing is putting slight pressure on the shellac and as it does not give, it breaks away.

    I've tried various chemicals over the years, those especially made to remove finishes and had no success with any of them. They turned everything into a gooey mess that 3 different coatings still required me to in the end, scrape off what was left, but then, there was risk of damage as the mess remained somewhat of a goo and you were actually scraping off a bit of wood along with the goo to get it off.

    Denatured alcohol was one that I haven't tried so it may be worth a shot. But I've had very good success with my method as well with no ill effects.
    i recently had success with citristrip. here are before and after pictures for one of my rifles





    the finish is BLOicon
    Last edited by kar98k; 05-17-2010 at 05:59 PM.

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  12. #28
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    More questions

    First, when the germans rebarreled there rifles did they stamp the the rifle SN on to the barrel? Is there any date make on the barrel itself to tell how old it is? I have noticed in my search for ammo that there is 8mm/57mm .323 dia. ammo. is this an issue? I know these are basic question but Info about the M1icon garand is more plentifull then the MOD98.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ledge View Post
    I know these are basic question but Info about the M1icon garand is more plentifull then the MOD98.

    I'm not a Mauser guy, particularly, but I've always felt the reverse was true- There's quite a bit more (tonnes!) of published info on Mausers than M1s! Maybe not on the internet, but books are your friends!!!

    Even as a casual observer, I've accumulated quite a few books on Mausers and variants thereof., I just haven't read the covers off 'em yet.

    BTW I think all military Mauser '98s past 1905(?) are .323" bore. I'm not sure that all of 'em aren't, but 1905 sticks in my tiny pea brain.

  14. #30
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    Beautiful Rifle...where did you get it?

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