+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: M1 Timing Blocks - someone please educate me

Click here to increase the font size Click here to reduce the font size
  1. #1
    FREE MEMBER
    NO Posting or PM's Allowed
    DTC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Last On
    09-21-2013 @ 12:51 AM
    Posts
    24
    Local Date
    03-28-2024
    Local Time
    12:17 PM

    M1 Timing Blocks - someone please educate me

    Hi All,

    I've searched the web and the forum archives and haven't been able to find any technical data on exactly how to properly use the timing block for the M1icon Garand.

    I bought a homemade machined aluminum timing block on an online auction, but it lacks the engraved instructions/markings that the original steel block had. The Delrin blocks being sold don't seem to have them, either.

    I'm just curious what the original block says- and/or would like to see a technical manual/bit of instructions if they exist somewhere.

    I'm betting there are several of you here that can point me in the right direction and/or read what it says on yours. Thanks in advance for your time.

    ALSO- mine doesn't have the holes drilled in the end of the block. Is a dummy round actually supposed to fit in there? (The holes aren't offset like the cartridges in an enbloc clip would be, anyway...)

    Machined Aluminum


    Original Steel




    Delrin
    Information
    Warning: This is a relatively older thread
    This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

  2. # ADS
    Friends and Sponsors
    Join Date
    October 2006
    Posts
    All Threads
    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  3. #2
    FREE MEMBER
    NO Posting or PM's Allowed
    alaska Robert's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Last On
    06-16-2012 @ 02:23 PM
    Location
    Wasilla, Alaska
    Posts
    16
    Local Date
    03-28-2024
    Local Time
    09:17 AM

    Re: Timing Blocks

    From my understanding you insert the timing block into the rifle and the bolt should no release till it gets to the top of the timing block. I don't think the holes make any difference. I have enclosed a photo from my USGI timing gage and a photo from the Garandicon technical manual. I hope this helps.
    Attachment 14062Attachment 14061
    Last edited by alaska Robert; 07-12-2010 at 09:56 AM.

  4. Avoid Ads - Become a Contributing Member - Click HERE
  5. #3
    FREE MEMBER
    NO Posting or PM's Allowed
    Cajun J's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Last On
    09-21-2018 @ 01:50 PM
    Location
    Frisco, TX DFW area
    Age
    74
    Posts
    30
    Local Date
    03-28-2024
    Local Time
    12:17 PM
    How do you know which part to replace, assuming bolt is not released. Is this simply trial and error?

  6. #4
    FREE MEMBER
    NO Posting or PM's Allowed
    alaska Robert's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Last On
    06-16-2012 @ 02:23 PM
    Location
    Wasilla, Alaska
    Posts
    16
    Local Date
    03-28-2024
    Local Time
    09:17 AM
    Hello Norm, there is a Garand Technical Manual at the website highspeadlane.net . There is a section under malfunctions and corrections that might help or take it to a qualified gunsmith. Here is the link to the manual:
    M1 Garand Ordnance Maintenance TM 9-1275

  7. #5
    FREE MEMBER
    NO Posting or PM's Allowed
    Rick Cummelin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Last On
    01-29-2020 @ 05:20 PM
    Location
    Whitewater, CO
    Posts
    138
    Local Date
    03-28-2024
    Local Time
    10:17 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by Cajun J View Post
    How do you know which part to replace, assuming bolt is not released. Is this simply trial and error?
    Yes, it's pretty much trial & error, BUT... If your op rod doesn't release as it should, the FIRST part to try is the bullet guide, especially if you are currently using a WWII-type guide. The late-type bullet guides, with the notch, are designed to have a different release point and will "usually" cure a timing problem, at least 60-70% of the time. I always keep several NEW & UNUSED late guides in the part box to use just for this purpose.

  8. #6
    FREE MEMBER
    NO Posting or PM's Allowed
    Rick Cummelin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Last On
    01-29-2020 @ 05:20 PM
    Location
    Whitewater, CO
    Posts
    138
    Local Date
    03-28-2024
    Local Time
    10:17 AM

    Timing Block Markings

    Since you asked for the markings, here's what is on my GI timing block:

    TOP:
    US RIFLE CAL 30 M1icon & M1C RIFLE
    ASSEM 7265698 7265699 TIMING
    7319920 B (in a slightly larger font)

    RIGHT SIDE:
    MUST NOT RELEASE (on the large flat surface below the notch)

    MUST RELEASE (on the small flat surface above the notch that protrudes)

    To use, simply push in just like you would load a clip of ammo, but more slowly. The bolt SHOULD NOT release before the block has been inserted to the depth of the notch.

    However, the bolt SHOULD release when you get to the notch. The protrusion above the notch keeps you from inserting it any further.

    My experience has been that very few M1s ever release the bolt early (before the notch), But lots of worn rifles, especially WWII rifles with the early bullet guide, will NOT release the bolt in the notch like they are supposed to. You can even push the block in till it bottoms out a few times, but IF you have a timing problem, the bolt still will NOT release.

    This doesn't mean that the rifle won't fire properly--Most still fire & function just fine. This tool is commonly used when a rifle exhibits some malfunctions that are usually attributed to poor timing, like failure to catch the clip on insertion, premature ejection and/or failure to release the bolt (to go forward) when a full clip is inserted.

    A clip full of dummy rounds is also useful when troubleshooting timing problems. Lots of worn rifles will fail the timing block test, buit a clip of dummies can be inserted and will eject properly, including the clip with the 8th round.

    As I mentioned in my previous post, chnaging old/worn bullet guides and replacing them with a BRAND NEW late-style guide WITH THE NOTCH IN THE SIDE will cure most timing problems discovered by using the timing block.

    Hope this helps.

  9. #7
    FREE MEMBER
    NO Posting or PM's Allowed
    DTC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Last On
    09-21-2013 @ 12:51 AM
    Posts
    24
    Local Date
    03-28-2024
    Local Time
    12:17 PM
    Thread Starter
    Thanks, everyone. I didn't get the notification and realize ya'll had replied.

    My rifle releases EXACTLY at the bottom edge of the notch. I guess the "must not release" on that side of the notch is a bit confusing. Hopefully, they mean on the solid section and not at the lower notch edge.

    Will go now and read the links you posted.

  10. #8
    FREE MEMBER
    NO Posting or PM's Allowed
    Learmorer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Last On
    04-21-2019 @ 03:15 PM
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Posts
    3
    Local Date
    03-28-2024
    Local Time
    12:17 PM

    Learmorer

    That is the correct use of the block. The bolt should not release before reaching the bottom of the notch. The bolt should release before the top of the notch bottoms out on the reciever rail. If the timing is "early" you may file, stone, or grind a little off the point on the bullet guide where it contacts the accelerator lever. Be careful here, a litte bit goes a long way due to the leverage added by the accelerator lever. If the timing is slow due to worn parts, replace the bullet guide or other worn part.

    The holes through the GI block are to lighten it, they have no other purpose.

+ Reply to Thread

Similar Threads

  1. Timing Issue?
    By GUTS in forum M1 Garand/M14/M1A Rifles
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 03-16-2010, 06:18 PM
  2. P-14 with scope blocks
    By jamie5070 in forum Pattern 1913/1914 and M1917 Rifles
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 02-08-2010, 08:27 PM
  3. Delrin Garand timing block?
    By RogerFoxDog in forum M1 Garand/M14/M1A Rifles
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 03-27-2009, 06:31 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Raven Rocks