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    Parker Hale sight PH5C for No.4 rifle

    Good evening you all. This morning i received long wanted PH5C sight, with screws and a PH60 six holes adjustable eyepiece. Windage scale works fine; range scale works fine also except the fact it starts fro 300 yards, instead of 200 as marked in the scale. Screw stops itself at 300, no other click towards 200 is possible. What i have to do?
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Get yourself a 25yd zero target for either 303 or 7.62, set it up at that distance, ensure the vertical line on the target is plumb, fire a shot, correct the fall of shot until it strikes the intersection of the 300 line,(top of aiming mark).
    Slacken the elevation and windage plate screws and move the plates to coincide with the zero (0) mark, lockup the screws.
    If you are dedicated you can then check your elevation settings by winding up until the fall of shot intersects each range line from 300 to 1000.
    Then you will have an accurate sight setting for all ranges for the load you used at the time of zeroing.(it will also be an approximate for other loads) This will get you into the black every time.(unless the barrel is R/S)
    You can also check your sight alignment, by winding windage an equal amount(4-5 points) either side of centre. If your elevation climbs on one side and drops on the other, than your sight is not vertical and will need to be corrected. Do not be to concerned about the 1/2 minute variation from right to left, just be aware that this will increase over distance and should be factored in when firing long ranges (8-1000) and is due to the rifling twist, R or L, and only becomes more pronounced if the wind is also assisting the drift.

    A correct 303 zero chart also has a 200 line on it, a 7.62 chart you simply wind down from your 300 zero 1 1/2 points. A point represents 2 clicks on the standard sight and 4 clicks on a 1/4 sight. to identify which one you have, wind the windage to zero, count the clicks to the first segment, this should equal 10, as this segment is 5 points, your value equals 1/2, if you get 20 than it's 1/4. 7.62 Charts are available from the fullbore Associations, but if you wait out I will post the targets and dimensions later.
    Exit this short novel.

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    Thanks for this "novel" as you call your words. I'm waiting the dimension post before i plan to to something. Thank you again.

    ---------- Post added at 11:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:05 PM ----------

    I forgot to say i live in Italyicon. Here No Shooters Assosciation will give us a zeroing chart.

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    Legacy Member newcastle's Avatar
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    can anyone post an image of the correct 25 yard zeroing target for 303? please?

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    OK, just a point I forgot to mention, if you are shooting up the ladder and the target is plumb, your shots should stay on the vertical line, if you see a drift to one side that increases as it climbs, than your sight is not plumb.
    The diagrams I'm providing are old zero targets, murphy is alive and well in my house and I can't find a current one for love nor money, it will fall and hit me in the head as soon as I post this.
    I have given you the size and distance between each line so you can draw up your own, sorry, they are in inches.

    Attachment 29574Attachment 29575

    Just as an addition, if you reload, you are better off using the 7.62 chart, it is far more accurate as the actual load for Mk.7 is very difficult to duplicate, the difference in burning rates from ordinary powder to cordite is incredible, no modern powder can duplicate it, but modern powder will give you consistant elevation changes, almost duplicating the 7.62.
    Have fun.
    Last edited by muffett.2008; 01-04-2012 at 10:21 PM.

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    http://www.euroarms.net/EFD/manuali/...eld_target.pdf

    I think this is the same zeroing target for .303 ammo. Isn't it? I can print it in A4 sheet.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bow View Post
    http://www.euroarms.net/EFD/manuali/...eld_target.pdf

    I think this is the same zeroing target for .303 ammo. Isn't it? I can print it in A4 sheet.
    If you use a full circle black target put the bottom of the aiming circle on then aim with a sliver of white on top of the fore sight adjust as given.

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    Thank you all. I haven'ty understood the mechanics of my PH5C sight. I'm a bit off topic, but my problems is also this: PH5C has two fitting scews, they are meant to rock fit the sight to the receiver . In addition to these, there are one windage know of course , a range knob and a "screw with knob" in the body of the sight, in the rear portion of it, over the front fit screw. So 3 knobs: one for windage , another for elevation, and the third what is meant for?

    I hope i gave the mean of my speech.

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    Ah, yes Bow...... It is a quick release screw/knob. Unscrew the knob then press it in. You will then be able to move the elevating arm upwards and remove it from the fixed base.

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    Thread Starter
    Now all is clear.

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