Zeroing a No.32 scope

[kryten]

Hi again guys,
Probably been covered before, I am about to mount my No.32Mk1 to my 1943 Longbranch. The actual scope adjustments are not an issue, but just wondering what zero on the elevation dial would correspond to what range.

Most of my shooting is at 100 and 200 yds and an occasional excursion to 300yds. Do I zero at 100yds and bring the scale to zero? Or is the zero on the scope normally set for a different range?
Thanks

Alan

Information

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[Badger]

Use CSE (Google Custom Search) in the top right corner of web site. Perhaps enter the phrase no32 scope adjustment and see what old threads from the site turn up….

If you don't have Peter Laidler's books, they are an invaluable addition to an Enfield collector's library …

In addition to being a trained and highly experienced military Armourer, he has authored two excellent books about the No.4(T) sniper rifles and their No.32 scopes. They are titled "An Armourer's Perspective: .303 No.4(T) Sniper Rifle", which he co-authored with Ian Skennerton and his own dedicated work, "Telescope Sighting No.32".

If you're really interested in some in-depth learning about the No.4(T) sniper rifles and the No.32 series of scopes, their history, evolution, repair and adjustments for shooting, we'd highly recommend those two books, which are pictured below.

(Click PIC to Enlarge)

Here's a pamphlet in the MKL that may be of interest as well ..

1952 Instructional Pamphlet for No.4 Mk1(T) sniper rifle

Regards,
Doug

[vintage hunter]

You want to zero it at 100yds with the range drum on 1 and the deflection on 0. You'd only turn the range drum to 0 if you were going to bore sight it on a 28' range using to aiming points 1.7'' apart. To bore sight center the lower aiming point with the bore's axis and without disturbing the rifle use the scope's adjustments to get the post centered on the upper aiming point.

[Peter Laidler]

Just to simplify matters, I'll get to the point............ The snipers always used to shoot-in at 300 or 400 yards with the sight set accordingly. If there is an error, just leave the drum set to the range you are shooting at and adjust the lead screw. You can do the same at 200 yards.
On all optical sights, treat the grat as a foresight and remember FORESIGHT INTO THE ERROR (and if you need to know the rest of the phrase, it's followed by 'backsight out of the error'). If your shots are going left, move the graticle LEFT and vice verca
If the shots are going HIGH, then raise the graticle and vice verca.

And just in case you don't know what way to turn the lead screw, remember C=DR. Clockwise moves the graticle DOWN and RIGHT

That's all I have ever remembered and it's served me well for 45 years - so far

[jmoore]

And just in case you don't know what way to turn the lead screw, remember C=DR. Clockwise moves the graticle DOWN and RIGHT

That's too easy! Which means I'll promptly forget it.

[Beerhunter]

Having gone through zeroing a No.32 Mk1 and having previously heard all the war stories on how difficult it is, I decided to document my experiences. (I may publish it one day.)

So here is my pearl of wisdom, for what it's worth. In my opinion the MOST important thing to do when zeroing a No.32 Mk1 is to have something to hold the rifle rock steady when doing the adjustments. Trying to do so without is nigh impossible. Even having a mate to hold the rifle while one does the adjustment is nearly as fraught with difficulty. Clamp it down!

[vintage hunter]

I don't understand where the stories about No.32 scopes being hard to zero come from, or why it requires more than one person to do it. I can see where it's nesessary to clamp it in a padded vice to bore sight but personally I had no troubles zeroing after that. When I got ready to make an adjustment I'd just lay the rifle across my knees and use the issue spanner tool to turn the lead screw while holding the drum still. Piece of cake.

[jmoore]

I'd just lay the rifle across my knees and use the issue spanner tool to turn the lead screw while holding the drum still. Piece of cake.

Moving it is easy enough. Moving it the correct amount is the trick!

Never took the time to cipher how many degrees of lead screw movement it takes to move one MOA. Laziness, I reckon.

[Peter Laidler]

On the subject of moving the lead screw, as I have said many times, the secret is to not clamp the lead screw locking nuts down toooooo tight. Just nipped up is sufficient for your usual range work. On the other hand, if you are advancing into Caen or up into Monte Cassino and are going to slug it out for a week there in the ruins, then maybe that's the time to clamp the lock nuts up megga tight. But on the ranges, nipped up sufficient to prevent slippage is tight enough

[MJ1]

Buy Peter's books and read them twice, ear mark important pages then refer as needed. I don't fuss with them everyday any more so it helps to quick check things or it costs you time and money. or worse.

...MJ...