chrome plating a bolt?

[thefixitman]

I have a Sporterized, M1917 Enfield, Eddystone 30-06. The bolt will not close all the way on a field gauge. The shell casings show about .004 expansion, after they have been shot in the gun. The rifling are strong and the gun still holds a good pattern. The bolt handle was straightened and wielded with stainless steel rod, so I can’t blue it. I was wondering if chrome plating the bolt would be a good way to improve the looks?
How much do you think this could improve the headspace? What kind of chrome would give me the best results, bright chrome or industrial chrome?
Thanks I would like your input. Is this even a good solution?

[Salt Flat]

Fixit, I don't think it would be a good idea for a couple of reasons. First there is the hydrogen embrittlement factor when chrome plating. Unless it is done just right there is some risk of failure. Secondly, from an esthetic angle it just wouldn't look right on a high power riflle. It might be fine for a parade rifle or Hitlers luger. Otherwise - no. Also as a method of adjusting headspace- doubtful. The bolt bodies for Enfields are cheap and easy to find so I think you would be money ahead to find a good bolt, test the headspace and go from there. Have the barrel setback and chamber recut if the headspace is bad. Good luck and have fun! Salt Flat

[Buntlineguy]

Plating adds thickness.
B

[emmagee1917]

So would a couple of pieces of cardboard , but it would also not be a strong , long term solution . Chrome is soft compared to steel , and the steel under would be changed ( weakened ) by the chroming process .
Chris

[chuckindenver]

hydrogen embrittlement doesnt really effect heat treated steel alloy, more of a strenth issue with welded areas. and realy only on Carbon steel, most 1917 bolts are 3.5% nickle steel, and only surface hardened, however.
a good polish job, would do nicely, and i would avoid any type of plating, id like to know how they got a stainless steel to hold with NS steel or Carbon steel for that matter.
USMC, and K marked bolts are made with 8620 Carbon steel,
the 1917 bolt usually doesnt need bending, welding or other modifications on a sporter rifle..another reason why lots of them were sporterized. might just try another bolt that wasnt messed with and see if it clears, and headspaces up right.

[thefixitman]

Thanks chuck
There are no marking on the bolt. I'm not sure what type of rod they used, but it will not take any kind of cold blue it just runs off. The area is between the bolt and the handle knob. The bolt will not close on a field gauge so I don't know that headspace is that much of a problem. But is the chamber wear a problem? As said before .004 expansion. I don't plan on reloading. I have the bolt polished and it looks good. I also like the look and feel of the stright bolt it clears the scope better. The gun seem to shoot fine. I was just wondering.
Thanks for the reply

[chuckindenver]

its not supposed to close on a field reject..
iv posted many many times how to check headspace on a 17 or P14..remove the cocking assembly, as well as the extractor,
if you feel resistance on the tool, then it passes, even if it closes on the tool.
your headspace is fine.
if you heat the bolt with a propane type torch, and then apply cold blue id bet it will take just fine.
cold blue and real blue {black oxide} arent the same thing.
any markings on a 1917 or P14 bolt will be on the original handle, if its been removed...so have the markings.

[thefixitman]

Chuck:
I tried heating the bolt handle with a torch. It was hot enough to sizzle the cue tip I was using to apply the Brownells oxpho-blue The nickel steel took the blue very well. But there was no discoloration of the welded part of the handle. See attached picture

[chuckindenver]

hard to see with that picture...but id bet they used braze rod. a touch of beachwood casey ultra black will work just fine.
personally, i would just try an original bolt, and see how it clears the scope...if it does...then replace the bolt...and be happy..:}