Swedish HVA m96 stock finish

[ptf18]

I posted this on some of the other surplus forums and thought I'ld try here.

Ive got a REAL Swedish HVA produced m96 FSR rifle that has a damaged hand guard. I repaired the HG and stained the repaired area to match the surrounding wood.

What I need to know is what was the "sealer" that was applied by HVA.

What I do know is that it had a satin finish to it and that it came off the HG when I scrubbed the HG with 0000 steel wool and denatured alcohol.

I dont think its shellac as the "sealer" it not glossy.

I would think it might be BLO as I believe thats what the Swedish Military used (or spec') on their m96s.

Maybe it is varnish as I think HVA was also producing commercial rifles to sell as perhaps that same "sealer" was applied to these FSR rifles. The finish appears to be simalar to what in recent times is applied to "inexpensive" rifles that have "white wood" stockes ie Ruger 10/22 Mini-14s, various 22 rf, etc.

THoughts please. I'ld really like to apply the "correct" "sealer"

[Patrick Chadwick]

Maybe it is varnish as I think HVA was also producing commercial rifles to sell as perhaps that same "sealer" was applied to these FSR rifles.

A varnish would not be removed by alcohol. It would require acetone or real paint stripper. As you have now dehydrated the outer layer of wood, you need to "feed" the wood with linseed oil. Start with a few drops on a rag that hase been moistened with natural turpentine. The turpentine helps the oil to penetrate deeply into the wood. Just enough until the wood feels oily, then stop. Put the stock away for a couple of days, and repeat when the wood feels dry. Repeat for a decade or so! Seriously, over weeks to months, not days.

BTW, it does not have to be boiled. Just good pure linseed oil. In fact I use very ancient (more than 20 years old) comestible linseed oil that now has the color and viscosity of comb honey. It only takes very little of this to bring up a stock, but a touch of turpentine is advisable to avoid a sticky surface layer of half-dried oil, which is what you will get if you apply too much too quickly.

[ptf18]

Patrick: Thanks for your reply. Do you feel pretty confident that the "sealer" was/is linseed oil?



Ive got both turpentine and BLO on hand.

THank you,
Lester

[Patrick Chadwick]

Do you feel pretty confident that the "sealer" was/is linseed oil?

Yes.

I quote from the definitive book "Crown Jewels - The Mauser in Sweden" by Dana Jones, ISBN 0-88935-283-6, P.71: "regardless of the type of wood used, all stocks were manufactured on power machinery, hand-finished by skilled stockmakers, and treated with linseed oil.

And I have never seen anything else on a Swedish Mauser.

[ptf18]

Patrick: Thanks alot. If I look at the stock very carefully I can see the "finishing" sanding lines that go across the grain of the stock. Theyare very fine lines and hard to see.

The rifle has no import mark on it and I suspect it has been in the US for many years. I only wish that the HG would not of been damaged but Ill get it back together now that Im certain of the "sealer' used.

Thanks again,
Lester

[Patrick Chadwick]

Theyare very fine lines and hard to see.

No such lines should be visible. The stock has probably been worked on by a previous owner. Dig around in the restorer's forum and you should be able to find a detailed description of a method of scraping/burnishing that I developed. Try "boning" as a search word. This method will smooth down the surface somewhat without removing any wood whatsoever.

And don't forget to oil the stock on the inside.