Restore Smith-Corona '03-A3?

[8683jb]

I have an '03-A3 in the 4.8M serial range that is pretty much made up of an assortment of parts: The receiver and barrel are Smith-Corona in pretty nice, original condition and finish with a mirror bore. It has a non-SC bolt, non-SC stock, '03 trigger guard & floorplate, middle band, etc. If it's not too cost-prohibitive, I'd like to restore it to its correct SC configuration. If it's stupidly expensive, I'll just leave it a shooter. I have zero dollars in the gun to start with so there's some room to try to make it right. Is there a reliable source of information on what parts would be correct for this gun and what markings and finishes would identify them? Also any parts suppliers that would be a good place to start looking? Thanks for the help!

Information

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[Chuckindenver]

its only money

[highpower3006]

It can be done for not too much money if you are patient and look around for the parts you need. Also the parts you have that aren't correct can be sold and the money used to finance the other stuff you need. I restored a S-C earlier this year and it wasn't as hard to find the parts as I thought it would be. I found a correct, near-pristine, stock on evilbay for a mere $125 and I don't think I have more than a another $125 in every thing else.

What I started with:


How it turned out:

[sakorick]

By all means restore it. I sold the few Remy parts on mine and purchased the SC parts for less. You won't ever look back.....it's an easy decision.

That said, what is the condition of rifle. It's best to match things up as much as possible. For instance slapping on a stock as nice as highpower's may look out of place on a well worn gun. There are SC parts all over the place and DuPage has all condition stocks. How do you know the bolt is not SC? If it's a Remington you will make money on that trade. Write down the parts on the gun and post them here with a description of the finish. Most SC parts aren't marked while most Remy parts have a R stamped on them somewhere. You may not need much of anything. Regards, Rick.

[8683jb]

Thanks for the help guys. Beautiful gun, Highpower! The SC parts I have are pretty nice, 90% + I'd say. The bolt is one I bought recently and is made up of NOS GI parts. Nice bolt but not correct for this gun, according what little I've read so far. I located a couple of NOS bolts locally, one blued and one parkerized. They both have the "X" on the handle and according to the fellow that has them, they are SC bolts. How do I know if they are completely SC and the finish that would've been corret for my gun? Thanks again!

[sakorick]

Thanks for the help guys. Beautiful gun, Highpower! The SC parts I have are pretty nice, 90% + I'd say. The bolt is one I bought recently and is made up of NOS GI parts. Nice bolt but not correct for this gun, according what little I've read so far. I located a couple of NOS bolts locally, one blued and one parkerized. They both have the "X" on the handle and according to the fellow that has them, they are SC bolts. How do I know if they are completely SC and the finish that would've been corret for my gun? Thanks again!

I am no expert and others may help me out here. The x or lack of anything indicates a SC bolt. The SC bolt was blued and had lightning cuts in the shroud. So you need a x or unmarked bolt body, shroud with lightning cuts and all other bolt parts unmarked.

The bolt and all parts, trigger guard, buttplate, bands, band spring, magazine spring, follower, front sight and swivel bases and swivels should be blued. It is my understanding they didn't start Parkerizing those parts until overhaul.

The stock should look just like hightowers with the FJA and OC crossed cannons on the left side and one circle P behind the triggerguard.....no other arsenal marks! Good luck and regards, Rick.

[emmagee1917]

And just a heads up.....fix your sling. The rear " tail" goes against the stock to help push the sling out , not in the center of the three , and , more importantly , the adjuster needs to be turned around. You grab the end of the sling to open the adjuster . If you don't have a firm grasp on your web sling when the adjuster is open , the sling could slip through and you'll end up dumping your rifle .
Chris

[8683jb]

Thanks again Rick. I appreciate all the information! I'll keep after it and accumulate what parts I can along the way. Sooner or later it'll get there. Meanwhile, I'll shoot & enjoy it.

[highpower3006]

And just a heads up.....fix your sling. The rear " tail" goes against the stock to help push the sling out , not in the center of the three , and , more importantly , the adjuster needs to be turned around. You grab the end of the sling to open the adjuster . If you don't have a firm grasp on your web sling when the adjuster is open , the sling could slip through and you'll end up dumping your rifle .
Chris

That's not the way they show it in the manual. According to TM 9-1005-223-12 (Jan. 1963) the sling mounts the way I have it on the 'A3.



I have used these slings turned around, but that was for position shooting and I used the slide bucked portion as a arm cuff. It worked better than a M1907 sling and was legal for service rifle matches

[sakorick]

HP. Your keeper is upside down. Regards, Rick.