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Non steel core bullets that attract a magnet do so because the jacket is made of a soft steel that is copper washed(plated) to prevent corrosion and they don't have bonded cores in the sense some sporting bullets do. Swage locked maybe but not bonded. To my knowledge steel jacketed bullets are no harder on barrels that normal gilding metal. And if you peeled the jacket off the core of one of these with a pair of needle nose pliers and a chisel then these milsurps must not have as tough tough tough a jacket as you think they do, do they?
Do you have a kinetic bullet puller in your reloading kit preventec47? You know, the little thingie wat looks like a hammer that you insert a whole cartridge into and whack hell out of it against a solid surface to separate the components.
If not buy, borrow or steal one and figure out how it works. This is basically the same thing that could one day happen when you fire one of your ersatz SP's, the bullet will get a running start and when it begins to engage the rifling the jacket will come to a sudden halt and the core will keep on going.
Last edited by vintage hunter; 10-18-2013 at 10:34 PM.
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10-18-2013 10:26 PM
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Well guys and blokes, it is bad ju ju to ever criticize anyone who recommends caution,
but I have told you what worked. This is a fact and if you are ever faced with a similar
situation you may choose the same route of action. Sure go ahead and check the
bore after each shot if you want. I wont argue. But knocking the tip off the bullet
does allow the bullet to deform much like conventional soft point bullets. That I observed
this is not subject to debate. I'll tell you something else, for limited purposes, using
a bolt on a tough old Mauser Rifle was a great idea to re-seat or seat alternative bullets
as were my first steps in reloading. Obviously I felt it was probably a better idea to
buy some Hornady hunting bullets and replace the Milsurp FMJs. You are being a little
rude to say "a bloke doesnt use a bolt as a press"
Here is how you do it. Take a fired
shell and somehow find a way to poke out the primer. Now insert this casing into
the chamber and the primer hole will now serve to locate the replacement bullet tip precisely.
Next point the rifle to the ceiling and seat the bullet case head with powder in it
into the bolt extractor clips. The push the bolt forward slowly until the shell consumes
the bullet until you reach the black mark on the bullet that tells you the bullet is deep enough. ( of course you have to place the black mark beforehand )
This technique I conjured up before I ever owned a single piece of reload equipment
and it worked very well. ( much better than hammers and pliers etc )
I have another computer at another location and when I can remember I will retrieve
and share with you photos of those homemade milsurp hunting bullets.
BTW, warpig, I think you are wrong about the steel jacket with copper washing
as my recollection is that the copper color was throughout the jacket material
instead of just a coating on the outside. I may have to go back and inspect one
of those bullets again to see if I can for instance file away a copper surface which
would reveal a steel color substrate . If you are right I will let you know.
Of course if you are wrong you will hear that also. I admit it has been several
years since I performed these actions.
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Originally Posted by
preventec47
Well guys and blokes, it is bad ju ju to ever criticize anyone who recommends caution,
but I have told you what worked. This is a fact and if you are ever faced with a similar
situation you may choose the same route of action. Sure go ahead and check the
bore after each shot if you want. I wont argue. But knocking the tip off the bullet
does allow the bullet to deform much like conventional soft point bullets. That I observed
this is not subject to debate. I'll tell you something else, for limited purposes, using
a bolt on a tough old Mauser Rifle was a great idea to re-seat or seat alternative bullets
as were my first steps in reloading. Obviously I felt it was probably a better idea to
buy some Hornady hunting bullets and replace the Milsurp FMJs. You are being a little
rude to say "a bloke doesnt use a bolt as a press"
Here is how you do it. Take a fired
shell and somehow find a way to poke out the primer. Now insert this casing into
the chamber and the primer hole will now serve to locate the replacement bullet tip precisely.
Next point the rifle to the ceiling and seat the bullet case head with powder in it
into the bolt extractor clips. The push the bolt forward slowly until the shell consumes
the bullet until you reach the black mark on the bullet that tells you the bullet is deep enough. ( of course you have to place the black mark beforehand )
This technique I conjured up before I ever owned a single piece of reload equipment
and it worked very well. ( much better than hammers and pliers etc )
I have another computer at another location and when I can remember I will retrieve
and share with you photos of those homemade milsurp hunting bullets.
BTW, warpig, I think you are wrong about the steel jacket with copper washing
as my recollection is that the copper color was throughout the jacket material
instead of just a coating on the outside. I may have to go back and inspect one
of those bullets again to see if I can for instance file away a copper surface which
would reveal a steel color substrate . If you are right I will let you know.
Of course if you are wrong you will hear that also. I admit it has been several
years since I performed these actions.
Well some of what you have done is beyond comprehension and to be honest probably not the best to post when a newbie is about to get into reloading. Lots of people have done what in reality is anything but safe however most caution others to refrain from doing it..EVER. You rolled the dice and won, who knows some fool may try what you did and loose and in my opinion it would be best to refrain from posting things that are just stupid.
See you have 8 posts, good start to a short career on this site.
Why use a 50 pound bomb when a 500 pound bomb will do?
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Well Enfield, glad you are gentleman enough to admit this discussion is beyond your
intellect but not everything you cant understand is stupid. If you care to engage in
some technical discussion I'd be happy to explain those items you really dont understand
regarding physics and internal ballistics etc.
Remember that in most of these kinds of forums it is a good idea to be very specific
about items of interest instead of brushing across broad swath concepts.
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I rode the short bus to school, snacked on lead paint chips and I was dropped as a child an I understand stupid when I see it.
Well, we tried but like my daddy used to tell me "boy, you ain't the sharpest tool in the shed are you",,,,He's the one that dropped me!!..
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Shall we avoid the Christmas rush and just give him the Troll of The Year award now........
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This thread is degenerating with sarcasm and insults. Thread closed.
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