Fixing an Oil Infused Stock, my Problem with My Lee Enfield

[Galactor123]

Hey there milsurp.com, I have a problem that I figured I'd toss at you guys as its sort of stumped me as to how I should proceed, and the original place I posted this (the /r/guns board on reddit) thought that someone here probably knew the answer to it. I bought a Ishapore Lee Enfield No 1 MK 3 at a gun show during the Sandy Hook freak out. I liked the thing, was actually my first firearm but because it was my first I had no idea what I was really getting into. The thing worked well until a couple months passed, and I noticed that there were some serious cracks in the stock.

I took it to a gunsmith to see about repairing it and he said that, because the Ishapore rifles use oil infused stocks, that he had nothing for it, as any sort of epoxy he used wouldn't hold due to the way it was manufactured.

I've gone and looked at original looking stocks, and anytime I do find a full No 1 Mk 3 stock they are either as much as what I paid for the original gun, or are terrible looking. Separate pieces I would have no idea what to do with, and would, combined, be probably around the same price all told.

Monte Carlo does make a polymer stock for it, but I figured I'd talk to you guys before I go and make a sporter out of this thing (Its not the best shooter in the world or anything so I wouldn't consider it a huge loss, but I do like the Enfield due to the way it looks and making it into just another hunting rifle would break my heart).

So what do you think? Is there a way to fix an oil infused stock that either I, or a more in the know gunsmith could do? If not, should I just sell it at a loss to someone looking for a project/wall hangar? Would it be blasphemous to put it on a Monte Carlo stock?

Also just so you know the extent of the issue: picture of how it looks (sorry for the quality)

Picture of the major crack by the mag well.

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Patrick Chadwick]

I know how I would go about it, but that might not be the best way. So I have posted a "heads up" on the Enfield forum, in the hope that some of the real experts will pop over and have a look. The crack is in a very bad place - it looks like it goes precisely through the location of the fore-end pin, in which case I suspect that a) someone like Peter Laidler knows the standard "fix", in which case b) do exactly as he says.

In the meantime, I think you need to remove the fore-end to see where the crack runs on the inside (magazine well). A photo of this would help others to help you.

---------- Post added at 09:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:59 PM ----------

I took it to a gunsmith to see about repairing it and he said that, because the Ishapore rifles use oil infused stocks, that he had nothing for it, as any sort of epoxy he used wouldn't hold due to the way it was manufactured.

He may well be correct, but I wouldn't use epoxy anyway, just PVA wood glue. After washing the affected area with acetone to remove, or at least reduce, any oil from the crack surfaces.

[Homer]

Mate you need to take much better photos than those.

[Ridolpho]

Galactor: Yes, as Homer said, more pictures including closeups of the cracks in the forend with the action removed. There already appears to be a some threaded brass rod inserted near the main crack so it's not likely a new thing. The oil soaked wood can be worked with and if the experts here can get a good look at the damage they can recommend what course of action to take.

Ridolpho

[CINDERS]

I am looking at the cross piece near the wrist strap and if that's a No 1 Mk III then they certainly did not have the tie strap as apposed to the No.4 so it may not have the plate at the rear and what would the stock bolt be doing all this time cut short ? the screw wire across near the front trigger guard screw would not help a linear split like that it would have to be a vertical one or has it split out behind the collar more pics so the forumers can help you, cut out near charger bridge just I guess wrong (looking at a spare Mk III stock I have.)
Is it the correct trigger guard for the weapon guys, I am always limbing it and getting smacked but its how we all learn, could you bubba a No.4 fore end stock to fit a Mk III guess anythings possible in India

Anyway good for you Galactor123 in joining the fray and buying a 303 fun to own and fun to shoot this is the place that can assist you with any issues you may encounter with your rifle or just general knowledge on them.

See pic of a spare Slaz '43 No 1 Mk III stock I have, no tie plate at the rear and charger bridge cut out nothing like Galactor123's stock

Then again India could have just gone out and made one to suit it they also brought the patternation tools from the British as well and just added the tie plate anyway Happy Easter 2014 to the Milsurps site.

[Al Diehl]

I have an Ishapore stock set on my No1 MkIII and it looks just like the one in the OP (Except my set was new when I installed it) Has a cross tie ala' No4 and the same brass pin.

Here is a not so good pic but, the cross tie is visible.
Attachment 52009

I think that the crack in the OPs stock is incidental to the pin. Since my forearm is brand new and has one (a pin not, a crack), I believe it was an ounce of prevention rather than someone a dealing with a pound of cure.

If the forearm was cleaned well enough I believe it could be saved but, as pointed out before, we need more and better pics.

Al

[Maxwell Smart]

The rear tie strap is common on late Ishapore SMLE and 2A/2A1 rifles.

Trigger guard looks correct - the wire loop is offset to one side -(it is central on a No 4).

[Bruce_in_Oz]

All Lee Enfield stocks were actually STORED in linseed oil for quite some time whilst awaiting shipment for assembly.

The timber is meant to be thoroughly "infused" with oil so that it doesn't rot or dry out and split.

Over years of service, the diggers, armourers and storemen would have laid on untold layers of various oils.

You can remove a LOT of it by storing the offending component in acetone or ferocious stuff like the thinners for NC lacquers: guaranteed to remove a lot of oil.

However, if you overdo it. every change of humidity will set the fore-end off in different directions.

If you just treat the area containing the crack, (and down into the crack itself), you will be OK.

If you GENTLY pry the crack open a bit and then hose out the opening with something evil like a pressure-pack can of "Carburetor Cleaner" with a small extension tube, you can remove a lot of oil from the surfaces that need gluing.

Keep the crack open to let the solvent evaporate (so that it doesn't contaminate the glue) and store in a nice dry, warm place.

I use the old, slow Araldite for stock repairs as it is very strong and, being "slow" allows the resin to soak into the wood fibres and time for a fair bit of tweaking of the final position.

Those brass "pins" are actually vintage threaded rod and have been used to repair small-arms furniture for over a hundred years.

They became an integral part of the manufacture of Australian SMLE furniture, due to the enthusiasm with which Coachwood splits.

[Brit plumber]

And it looks like the wire goes across the stock rather than joining the 2 cracked parts together.

Could there be a draws problem here?

[Brian Dick]

I use grocery store grade clear ammonia purchased at the Dollar Store. You can immerse the wood in it, clean carefully with a Scotchbrite sponge pad, then rinse with cold water and dry in the sun for the desired degreasing. Repeat as many times as you see fit for the desired effect. Once the repair is set up and cured, soak it good with raw linseed oil and buff it out with fine steel wool. This knocks down the raised grain from the water and many of the little scratches and dings where the grain isn't broken will dissappear. It won't change the color of the wood and it isn't damaging like oven cleaner, (lye), and other lazy man methods of degreasing.