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Legacy Member
Thanks for the info on the older pattern lever, Peter. There are so many small changes leading up to the Mk4. It seems almost every part was refined and improved is some way.
Attachment 54973
The top ring is the different one. The others I have are like the bottom one.
The top one appears to have been made using different methods. It doesn't have the tool marks the others have and all the corners are cut straight. The others have two rounded corners. I am wondering if it might be a Fazakerley made ring?
Attachment 54974
The latch lever is different too.
If the ring is spot welded, I will probably use a boring bar on the lathe to cut the tube away from the inside. Another option would be to butt weld the whole section to the new tube.
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07-23-2014 10:03 PM
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Legacy Member
Thanks for keeping us abreast of this build...
Looking awesome, can't add much more than that really.
Thanks for the encouragement gentlemen.
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While we're here and there's a proof mark visible it's worth pointing out that there was always a bit of a discussion as to whether there was really ever a need to proof a blowback weapon. It's not as though the locked breech, gas pressure, stuck bullet could do anything else but......, er......, simply open the breech. Breech open...., end of problem!
Sten guns weren't proofed* so why were Sterling guns. David Howroyd told me with a degree of pride that they stated in their advertising material that no Sterling ever failed proof. But even he grinned and said that that was because by default, they couldn't!!!!!!! - and didn't!
And if you do it by locking the breech then it is a) a false test result based on fuzzy logic and b) how do you lock an unlockable breech block that is never meant to lock (except by inertia of course) anyway? Just a few points to ponder.
Is this a case of the UK rules of proof needing to get up into the 20th century when we're already well into the 21st century
* post war barrels were 'said' to have been proofed. But surely a case of wasted resources if ever I saw one
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Good points, Peter.
Even though the pressure goes out when the breech opens, I am still impressed how strong the barrels are. They just bulge a little when a bullet hits a stuck bullet in the barrel. I am sure you have seen examples.
Maybe I am taking this a bit too far… with all the little details like the proof marks, etc. It’s just that I find learning about them enjoyable and it gives me something to think about while I am grinding, filing and sanding.
Attachment 54979
I am going to try my hand at straightening the butt today.
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I have seen L2A3 barrels bulged but while a bulged barrel will FAIL proof, (but only because they say so......) it will still go on for years unnoticed in an SMG. Yes....., proofing an open bolt SMG always puzzled me. Same as a revolver really. A gas will ALWAYS find the route of least resistance. A bit like my son and his school work really.......... But credit where it's due. He did get to Oxford!
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Legacy Member
You must be very proud of your son, Peter. That's quite an achievement.
Attachment 54998
Straightening the butt took all of 10 minutes.
Attachment 54999
So I moved on to removing the pivot from the cut section of casing.
I remembered the picture of the foot operated spot welder in the book and cut the weld away from the inside. Then used a mapp gas torch to melt the braze. It came right off.
And I finally finished cleaning up the welds.
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Thank You to Vincent For This Useful Post:
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I have probably asked this before Vince and others US builders. But why can't (?) you just start such a project with a new length of tube. It just SEEMS to be an easy option to me. You know........., where there's a will, there's an EASY way.........
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Legacy Member
I started with a new tube (top in picture). Rolled and machined the front end to take the barrel support. Then aligned, pinned and welded it into the tube. But I really wanted to keep as much of the Patchett as possible... especially the roughly ground welds you mention in the book. When my friend found the Mk4 shroud section I thought I would be welding anyway, so why not weld it on. Most of the registered Mk4 full-auto's here were built that way.... registered receiver welded to an original front shroud.
Drilling the holes through the rolled front end so they aligned perfectly with the ones in the support was not easy for me. I am not a machinist. So guess both ways have their challenges.... and with the hard part done I can't just let all that work go to waste. I will build something with it when I am done with this one. Maybe an SBR semi-auto Mk4 lookalike? I have enough parts for one. I would also like build a semi-auto Mk7 pistol.
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The Following 2 Members Say Thank You to Vincent For This Useful Post:
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I came down with west nile virus. Recovering now and hope to get back to this soon.
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Advisory Panel
Glad you're ok...take it easy until you feel right.
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