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Thread: Filling Bubba Holes

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  1. #1
    Really Senior Member Cantom's Avatar
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    Filling Bubba Holes

    Claven, you answered thus on CGNTZ:

    Quote Originally Posted by Claven2
    The PROPER way is to fill with countersunk screws and then TIG or MIG over the heads. Dress and then reblue the receiver.

    Anything less is mickey-mouse and it WILL show

    Is there anyone on this forum or anyone else in Southern Ontario who can do exactly this for a reasonable fee for a rifle I own? I have a Weaver base with tapped holes that I'd like to disappear.

    Last edited by Cantom; 12-14-2006 at 05:56 PM.

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    Gunco in Ottawa. Probably one of the best outfits in Canadaicon for gunsmithing services
    Союз нерушимый республик свободных Сплотила навеки Великая Русь. Да здравствует созданный волей народов Единый, могучий Советский Союз!

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    Really Senior Member Cantom's Avatar
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    Mea Culpa

    Quote Originally Posted by Claven2 View Post
    Gunco in Ottawa. Probably one of the best outfits in Canadaicon for gunsmithing services
    This is sheer torture to contemplate. I had a scope mount installed on my 1949 unissued Long Branch about 15 years ago, 3 or 4 tapped holes with a $5 Weaver base. I wish to hell I had not done that...I just got off the phone with my friend Rodger of DARK, he suggested just using blued filler screws that they use on new rifles with tapped scope mount holes and living with it. He said even with welding it is unlikely that it won't be noticeable plus sometimes the metal becomes porous and looks terrible...and rebluing the rifle will ruin the value completely even worse than I already have...
    The sniper stock shown is a Savage sniper butt with the scope serial no. on the wrist and a Hank Holm cheekrest. I still have the untouched LB butt that goes with the rifle.

    What say those on here? What would you do with it? I'm about ready to pull this mount off or should I leave it as is in a faux T setup? (can't afford a real one)




    Last edited by Cantom; 12-14-2006 at 11:06 PM.

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    The best one can do is to find screws of the same thread and cut them .0.040" over the top of the finished surface, then peen the screws to near flush. Use a jewelers loop to observe the finish grain then proceed to lightly and evenly use a very, very fine file to take it to near flush finish then finish the process with the appropriate grit sand paper or emery. then re-finish just the area of repair to match. You may want to use muriatic acid to pre-treat the are prior to finish, it gives a more evenly aged effect as well as blends the surface, HTH-SDH

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    Advisory Panel tiriaq's Avatar
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    The chap who does Jason's welding is A-1, and understands welding on firearms. Jason's 'smithing is first class. Personally I don't think repaired holes and a reblued receiver are any worse than holes that don't belong. I would consider this to be a legitimate restoration.
    The method described by sdh1911 is certainly an option, and can result in a very unobtrusive repair.

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    metal becomes porous
    Clean metal with the right heat and lots of the shielding gas shouldn't have any porousity. Exceptions are crappy metal like a BAR receiver, which is some kind of cast aluminum/steel mixture I think.
    If I were you I would go for the fill and refinish as well. And leave the LB butt on it and mail me the sniper butt as partial payment for the great advise.
    I picked up a Brit sniper on the weekend....pretty good condition except the butt does not have the S51 and the cheekrest has a slight crack in it. Has a real great transit chest and an excellent scope can with strap.

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    Really Senior Member Cantom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stencollector View Post
    Clean metal with the right heat and lots of the shielding gas shouldn't have any porousity. Exceptions are crappy metal like a BAR receiver, which is some kind of cast aluminum/steel mixture I think.
    If I were you I would go for the fill and refinish as well. And leave the LB butt on it and mail me the sniper butt as partial payment for the great advise.
    I picked up a Brit sniper on the weekend....pretty good condition except the butt does not have the S51 and the cheekrest has a slight crack in it. Has a real great transit chest and an excellent scope can with strap.
    Partial payment...hehehe

    Was the Brit sniper reasonable or the usual astronomical?

    How much would be reasonable for that Ottawa gunsmith to charge to disappear the holes?
    Last edited by Cantom; 12-15-2006 at 06:22 PM.

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    Just give Jason a call. Gunco, in Nepean. Its not going to be inexpensive; postage for the barrelled receiver back and forth is going to be $40 or so, all by itself.

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    I'm thinking about $20 for the weld job and another $50 or so for a bath in the blueing tank assuming you don't want/need any finish prep. Plus the shipping both ways for the barelled receiver.

    But don't take my word for it - call Jason and ask.

    613-224-6266 190 Colonnade Road, Nepean, ON K2E-7J5
    Союз нерушимый республик свободных Сплотила навеки Великая Русь. Да здравствует созданный волей народов Единый, могучий Советский Союз!

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    Really Senior Member Cantom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Claven2 View Post
    I'm thinking about $20 for the weld job and another $50 or so for a bath in the blueing tank assuming you don't want/need any finish prep. Plus the shipping both ways for the barelled receiver.

    But don't take my word for it - call Jason and ask.

    613-224-6266 190 Colonnade Road, Nepean, ON K2E-7J5
    I did call him, thanks much for the advice people! The barrelled action will be mailed to him today, I've already got it stripped and in a mailing tube. Price is within reason...I'm happy. Pics to follow.

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