M1 Restoration of old dried up Leather (Bayonets & Slings)

[imntxs554]

cThe National WWII Museum | New Orleans: Give: Preservation of Artifacts Bayonets and Slings

I was searching for a good way to keep the Bayonet Leather Handle from getting worse than what it looks likes right now.

Basic Preservation of Leather Artifacts

Leather is indeed a difficult item to preserve; care should be taken to store in medium humidity and moderate temperature. Generally speaking, storing it inside your home is suitable.

Avoid displaying leather items in direct sunlight or bright light. If the leather is dirty or moldy, clean it with saddle soap.Allow the item to dry in the shade.If the item feels overly dry or stiff, you may wish to oil it with neat’s-foot oil. Be sure to use only pure neat’s-foot oil, not neat’s-foot compound, which contains petroleum byproducts. Never use petroleum products (or anything that does not list its ingredients) on your leather. Anything that is put on leather is there to stay--beware of creating problems.Most leather will stiffen over time; this is generally not a problem, as historic items should not be used. Take time now, while the leather is pliable, to support the item in a displayable manner.....


Frank

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[CrossedCannons]

What's the issue with using petroleum products on leather?

[imntxs554]

Any oils affect leather and when it's in leather it will always be in there, theres some ingredients in petroleum that deteriorates leather and if your trying to keep your dried up leather from geting worse, then i think its a bad idea.

Frank

[ChipS]

...but this is a serious topic and somebody who KNOWS FROM LONG PERSONAL EXPERIENCE how to treat leathers (plural) should weigh in here. I am not an expert. I put common househiold ('3 in 1' brand as I recall) oil on a NOS leather .45 ammo pouch (and my baseball glove) 50 years ago and today that pouch (and my glove) is as stong and viable as the day it was made. My uncle (WWII US Navy PO, now deceased) put 'neatsfoot oil' (he recalled) on his cousin's (WWII US Navy officer, deceased) 1911A1 .45 service holster less than 5 years ago and and passed the .45 and holster to me last year. The pistol is like new and the holster is of the consistency of a rotting green hide, only barely solid. I'm not proposing that petroleum oil, neatsfoot oil or any other treatment should or should not be put on leather but when you do it you better know what the hell you're doing because I know the damage can be fast and irreversible. For many years out of fear I only used saddle soap and for the past several years I also apply Pecard's leather dressing to my GI leather. Pecard's seem to have a good rep in the fraternity and so far so good. I don't know what else to do and I do listen to other's experiences whenever I can. I think leather is much less forgiving than steel and wood. JMHO, ChipS

[imntxs554]

gew8805. ( THIS IS A PAST POST HERE WHI.E I WAS LOOKKNG WHAT TO USE)

08-01-2013, 03:41 PM

I'm sorry Jim, I have to disagree. Pecards is one of the worst things you can put on leather, it contains petroleum distillates which will damage leather. Peter's recommendation of lanolin is good and personally I will recommend nothing but pure neatsfoot oil, which has been used for hundreds of years and still is, both in tanning and preserving leather. WarPig, be careful of neatsfoot oil compound which is commonly available, it, like Pecards, contains petroleum products and will damage leather so, like Pecards, you do not want it. Use the pure neatsfoot oil only. Pure is harder to find and more expensive but is worth it in the long run.
Too bad that your grandfather and everyone since allowed the leather in the kidney belt to dry out, it is permanently damaged now and all that can be done is lightly apply natural products - lanolin or neatsfoot oil - in small doses until you are satisfied with the flexibility - not softness - of the leather. Do this after cleaning with a good quality saddle soap. Applying anything to a dirty item will only do more damage. When the belt is almost dry from the cleaning, apply the oil to the flesh side (that's the rough side) and you will have done all you can. After the treatment, do what should have been done for the last 80 years; keep it clean and at a comfortable temperature and in a consistent humidity of 60 - 70% and do not allow it to sit in direct sunlight for extended periods. A well ventilated room is essential. If you box it up for storage, be sure to avoid acidic paper and store in the above temperature/humidity conditions.

Remember to everything in stages, don't drown the leather when you apply the oil, it will clog the dried out pores and cells causing them to swell in their damaged state and further damage the item.

Remember, keep Pecards, mink oil and other goops like snow seal for your work boots and other user grade items, they all do fine for those things but should not be used on items you want to preserve and pass on to others who come after you.

Thanks goodness we seem to finally be getting away from the claims that used to be made for Pecards, that "it is used by the Smithsonian Institution" and other museums - it most certainly is not. If you want to know what real museums and antique curators/collectors actually do with leather to be preserved see:

National Park Service - Museum Management Program

No offense taken the better knowledge i get it benefits me, but i was going tbrough some post here about restoring leather if you go to search box and put in it restoring leather you will see this and btw i agree with the baseball oil but read this and theres alot more

---------- Post added at 05:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:07 PM ----------

I got this information from a thread about restoring dried up leather like im trying to do something about my dried up leather bayonet,

Frank

[HOOKED ON HISTORY]

I applied several light coats of anhydrous lanolin Amazon.com: Lanolin, Anhydrous Lanolin Pharmaceutical Grade: Health Personal Care to the dried and loose leather disks on a No 3 knife with very good results.
Swelled the grips enough to tighten them up. I think I paid $8 US for a one pound jar at the local Apothecary.

[INLAND44]

I use Obenauf's Leather Care which has worked extremely well for me, like on this holster which was dry and starting to crack where the flap 'hinges'. Does not permanently darken or leave a greasy feel. Does not soften either so the object retains its shape. I would put it on a leather bayonet handle with no hesitation.

[Patrick Chadwick]

I use lanolin - it works for sheep!

[HOOKED ON HISTORY]

I use lanolin - it works for sheep!

What do sheep use it for?

[imntxs554]

You would use it on like this Leather


of course i guess i just missed out