Rust blue question

[Topfmine]

Another question, using the ammonium chloride solution which is different to the normal acid mix, is there a standard method of applying this solution, I find that giving two separate coats gets the rust going between boilings, is this the norm as there are no instructions in the Angier book, just wonder what you guys do. To get in awkward places with wire wool and where a brush won't go I use wooden disposable chop sticks which I wrap wire wool on on the end of the stick to card the soot off, any cleaning carding tips you guy's have/ use?
Quite a deceiving process as after every carding the piece looks like it's stiil in the white (but it's not until you put it up against a bright polished piece) only untill you apply oil on the piece after about 5 rustings then it really does turn out to be a dark finish. Apart from that I am hooked.

[Johnny Peppers]

Remington used rust blue up into the 1950's, and used soft wire wheels for the carding. This speeded up the time intensive process.

So much for steel wool ruining a finish.

[Topfmine]

Rust blue is the way to go for the hobbyist for sure.
Some pics when your done....

Well I finished the gun and put it back together with excellent results. Took some hard work but worth it in the end. Doubled the price on the rifle bought for £200 now worth £400. I also found that by adding two coats of solution after first had just dried I got a better rusting coat. About five boils and the finish was ready for oiling. I did have a slight blemish on the receiver that was bugging me so I de oiled it and boiled and carded twice more which took away the blemish. As its a DP rifle I didn't take out all the marks as the previous finish was heavily blast cleaned. I think that they dipped and parked the whole gun including stock and dunked it in thick grease. As for tools to card I recommend throwaway chop sticks which you can shape with a knife and wrap the wire wool round, I also bought some cheap s/s wire small brushes of ebay to lightly brush the soot that's soft enough not to scratch the finish. I also recommend tight cotton gloves for carding parts than rubber gloves as the ends of the fingers split when doing small parts. The rubber latex gloves are good to handle parts for applying the solution and handling parts but I do give them a quick wipe with gun wash cellulose thinners to rid them of any oil, watch out with the used rubber gloves if you use them again then watch you don't use the inside for the out as oil from your hands contaminate the surface.

[Seaspriter]

Beautiful job. Congratulations. Thanks for all the tips.
BTW, did you repaint the DP stripes on the butt & forend to complete the restoration? (couldn't see the full furniture from the pics)

(for those new to Milsurps reading this thread, "DP" means "Drill Practice" -- IOW more than likely the gun was taken out of service because it has one or more defective parts that make very unsafe & unwise to shoot)

[Jim Tarleton]

Rust blue is a tough as nails finish that will last a very long time. I get better results when I initially apply several coats of acid (I use Pilkerton's or my own solutions), carding after each. I have also done complete rifles without boiling, but they tend to rust for a while. I use boiled linseed oil as the first oil coating, and apply it to a hot metal (stove). I have been doing rust bluing for years and wouldn't consider any other finish.

That is a fantastic job on that Krag. I do a very fine finish before rust bluing (600 grit) and get excellent results.

Jim

[WarPig1976]

Good job, I like it when a guy figures out he can do it himself.

[Peter Laidler]

DP = Drill PURPOSE and not Drill practice. Just a minor point.

Our DP rifles were up to the accepted standard except for a few minor points. Springs could be below the accepted weight requirement, the number of wood patches could exceed the allowable number per item (usually 3 on a fore-end or a butt and 2 on a handguard) so long as the strength of the rifle wasn't impaired. And before the barrels were milled across and plugged in the mid/late 70's, the bore had to be reasonably bright but did not need to conform to any gauging limits. Striker protrusion always removed. Usual white banded markings of course

[flying pig]

I like all the points mentioned, but would like to add that for mine I make barrel plugs out of a walnut dowel for the boiling process. I also use the dirtiest, blackest used Diesel engine oil I can get for the first oil coat. I leave the parts soak in it overnight. The finish comes out extremely black afterward.

[Topfmine]

Thanks for the kind comments on the finish. As for the white and red markings on the DP rifle when did this come into practice, when did DP rifles come into practice.
The DP rifle I have is of course deactivated an early spec.
I noticed that you lucky one's who can shoot their piece plug the bore. I found that after every boiling I carded the bore half way down to the deact plug in the barrel with a piece of wire wool. First of all you don't need to black the bore, so you don't need any solution to contact it. It would only encounter rust after a very short time just after a boil and when it was then carded by running a brush up the barrel. When left rusting for 24 hours I don't think the bore would hardly rust unless you had a lot of humidity about but not enough to pit the barrel. I think you would do more harm to a barrel if it was plugged and not removed at every carding after boiling just in case there was any plugged up moisture in the number of boiling done.

[WarPig1976]

No, no damage is done. It is best practice to plug the bore. I've done it both ways all depends on my mood and what it is I'm working on.