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Thread: Remmington 03a3 sniper?

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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cbinau View Post
    Numerich ones are decent depending on price. Stock has no affect on accuracy unless improperly fitted. As long as it's locked down and no movement you can adjust your sights/optics
    ok, great I may go that route, thanks for your help.

    ---------- Post added at 08:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:18 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by Cbinau View Post
    Here is a option if you want it done right

    M1903/M1917 | Shuffs Parkerizing
    thanks for this tip I may just do it.

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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  3. #22
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    Another option would be to get a C stock from the CMPicon for $165+ $8 shipping. I bought one last month and it looks nice, I just bought a S stock from this afternoon for the same price. This stock is made by Boyds and there are some floating around that were made in Italyicon.
    thanks for this tip I may just do it.[/QUOTE]

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  5. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by LJUTIC View Post
    Another option would be to get a C stock from the CMPicon for $165+ $8 shipping. I bought one last month and it looks nice, I just bought a S stock from this afternoon for the same price. This stock is made by Boyds and there are some floating around that were made in Italyicon.
    thanks for this tip I may just do it.
    [/QUOTE]

    Thanks and i was on that website a few days ago and couldn't find anything and after your email looked a little closer and found where they actually listed items for sale. That looks like the way to go

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    Quote Originally Posted by zadmat View Post
    thanks and I guess I am confused, as isn't the gun more valuable the way it is in a used state? The other thing was I was told the bolt has been rebuilt due to it being parkerized as apparently the original gun off the factory floor had a blued bolt? So why would I being doing it right to have it parkerized, maybe I am missing something. Starting to feel it would be better to sell it. I hope this doesn't come across wrong, but i truly have no idea what to do with this gun to be honest.

    My biggest problem is I put money in a gun that will sit in a gun safe and the odds of me really shooting it or doing much with it are slim. I do have 3 sons, but that is a problem 3! So unless I take it apart and divvy out the pieces I can't win.
    Yes the gun will be more valuable if as many parts as possible are in the original condition. In the case of the Model M1903A4 they remained in military service for decades and large percentage were rebuilt/refinished at government facilities. So while a completely un-rebuilt example will be at the top of the value pyramid a decent rebuilt rifle is the next best thing.

    Having examined the pictures of your rifle I think it would be a bad idea to refinish any of the metal parts.

    If you can afford them get an original A4 stock, original ¾" Redfield rings and an original M73B1 Telescopic sight. The total investment will be about $2000. to $2300. But when assembled your rifle will be worth $4,500. +.

    You are ahead of most people in that you have the original barreled action and bolt. If its within your means a real restoration would be worthwhile IMO.

    Also many of the aftermarket stocks are not notched for the A4 bolt handle. While it may appear to be a simple woodworking project trust me it's not. Most of the home brew conversions look like a dog's breakfast.

    Regards,

    Jim

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  8. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by JGaynor View Post
    Yes the gun will be more valuable if as many parts as possible are in the original condition. In the case of the Model M1903A4 they remained in military service for decades and large percentage were rebuilt/refinished at government facilities. So while a completely un-rebuilt example will be at the top of the value pyramid a decent rebuilt rifle is the next best thing.

    Having examined the pictures of your rifle I think it would be a bad idea to refinish any of the metal parts.

    If you can afford them get an original A4 stock, original ¾" Redfield rings and an original M73B1 Telescopic sight. The total investment will be about $2000. to $2300. But when assembled your rifle will be worth $4,500. +.

    You are ahead of most people in that you have the original barreled action and bolt. If its within your means a real restoration would be worthwhile IMO.

    Also many of the aftermarket stocks are not notched for the A4 bolt handle. While it may appear to be a simple woodworking project trust me it's not. Most of the home brew conversions look like a dog's breakfast.

    Regards,

    Jim
    Thanks Jim for chiming in it means a lot and you are right, the end value would be worth it. I may hold on for a while and keep searching, I am afraid of also buying a stock that isn't legit and paying to much and for nothing. I am no expert but am learning. It isn't hurting anything now and maybe fun to start looking and give me something to do. You are right about the stocks not being notch and judging from the butcher job on my stock, which I had no part of, it could end up looking horrible too, I guess. who knows maybe I will luck out and find one at decent price. I really have to find one though that was actually a sniper and has the markings, which I mean stamps? I found one on ebay that had the cutout for bolt for $700 but only like two markings and think it needs to have more, and another one that didn't have any but was did have cut out and said unissued, but don't I have to have the correct marked stock?

  9. #26
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    nothing wrong with the original finish on that rifle...
    warpath metal finishing contact info.
    molinenorski@msn.com
    720-841-1399 during normal bus, hours.

  10. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckindenver View Post
    nothing wrong with the original finish on that rifle...
    thanks for acknowledging the finish on the rifle, it actually looks better in person, there still is some brown stuff in some of the corners is that maybe some kind of old grease? What is safe to remove it or do i leave it?

  11. #28
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    leave it.. oil the rifle, find the correct parts.. locate a correct scope..
    warpath metal finishing contact info.
    molinenorski@msn.com
    720-841-1399 during normal bus, hours.

  12. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by zadmat View Post
    thanks for acknowledging the finish on the rifle, it actually looks better in person, there still is some brown stuff in some of the corners is that maybe some kind of old grease? What is safe to remove it or do i leave it?
    Some times that attractive greenish color, at least to me it is attractive, of the metal may be the result of having been originally stored with cosomoline on the metal and which chemicals have a habit of tinting a light grayish parkerized metal to a greenish tint after awhile. Be careful, as using a degreaser or a metal cleaner, such as Acetone on the metal, will instantly return the metal back to that light grayish color it was born with. Ask me about how I know. Using a gun oil should be ok to clean that grease. Ray
    Last edited by rayg; 07-25-2015 at 09:17 AM.

  13. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by rayg View Post
    Some times that attractive greenish color, at least to me it is attractive, of the metal may be the result of having been originally stored with cosomoline on the metal and which chemicals have a habit of tinting a light grayish parkerized metal to a greenish tint after awhile. Be careful, as using a degreaser or a metal cleaner, such as Acetone on the metal, will instantly return the metal back to that light grayish color it was born with. Ask me about how I know. Using a gun oil should be ok to clean that grease. Ray
    Thanks and I don't plan on using anything on it except oil and never have or had to. I have always tried to keep them oiled, especially since I don't take my guns out often.

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