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Thread: Recently acquired BSA 1911 SHTLE III

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  1. #11
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  3. #12
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    Thread Starter

    Finally got it to the range

    Thank you all for your help. I finally got to the range and found that it keyholes every round at 100 yards. I was hoping to have a useful antique rifle. What are my options without destroying the historical value?

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  5. #13
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    I don't see what shape the barrel is in here...you could try a larger cast bullet with gas check and see if it stablizes. That will depend on a sound bore though...
    Regards, Jim

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    To be honest there is little value in it, if it was complete in very good condition and retained the volley sights etc then its another story. If its key holing then the barrel is probably shot, Have you tried gauging the Barrel?

    The problem with SMLE's and early ones like yours is the lack of woodwork available, Its why I mentioned in a previous post its worth splicing and repairing. I've a few fore-ends I'm keeping for a rainy day which I've picked up over time, I can't justify using them for anything except a rare find such as a beat up sporterized sniper for instance.

    If the barrel doesn't gauge I'd look at parting it out, I'm just saying this from experience, there may be someone looking for a 1911 body to complete some sort of project....... The barrel if it
    is shot is scarp unless its bored out to take a .22 liner or bored out to .410 smoothbore etc.

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    What ammo are you using? If using boat tail projectiles, try some with flat base projectiles to see if the key holing stops.

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    I used Wolf bimetal ammo, flat base. I don't have a gauge, so I used a round: it falls out of the chamber, but stops halfway down in the muzzle. The rifling looks good to me, but I also don't know what it /should/ look like.

    I've definitely looked at putting the wood back together so it at least looks legit, even if it can't shoot straight. I'm also not attached to it, so parting it out or selling it whole is an option, too.

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    WTB= Wanted to Buy / Want to Buy

  12. #18
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    Have you pulled a projectile from that Wolff ammo to check if it's really flat base? All the Wolff I've encountered was Mk.8 spec with boat tail projectiles.

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    I looked back at my targets, since I can't pull a bullet at the moment, and I'm willing to say that they are boat tails, not flat base. Only a couple holes look flat, but most of them are boats.

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    Try some real Mk.7/7z or an equivalent with the flat base projectile. It may well cure the key holing problem.

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