303 Resizing for Rapid Fire

[Hip's Ax]

Greetings, I'm going to shoot a mil surp bolt rifle match for the first time in years and will have to use once fired 303 brass. I know the common wisdom is to neck size only then use a body die to knock things back when chambering gets tight.

Question, this match has rapid fire stages and I'm worried about proper feeding using fired brass. Should I use a FL die and try and get a measurement off the "shoulder" and knock that back 0.002"? Or will the once fired and neck sized do?

I'll be shooting my '55 Faz No4Mk2 that was a mummy wrap number. Headspace has been tightened up to commercial specs.

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[kcw]

Greetings, I'm going to shoot a mil surp bolt rifle match for the first time in years and will have to use once fired 303 brass. I know the common wisdom is to neck size only then use a body die to knock things back when chambering gets tight.

Question, this match has rapid fire stages and I'm worried about proper feeding using fired brass. Should I use a FL die and try and get a measurement off the "shoulder" and knock that back 0.002"? Or will the once fired and neck sized do?

I'll be shooting my '55 Faz No4Mk2 that was a mummy wrap number. Headspace has been tightened up to commercial specs.

That once fired brass was fired in that rifle with it's current headspace?
If that's the case, and you have some concern that some of the brass might be a bit tight during rapid fire if it's only knecksized (which is common), then I guess the thing to do would be to use a FL die adjusted down only to the point where the brass offers no resistance when the bolt is turned down.
While I segregate and knecksize my 303 brass to a given rifle, I do lightly bump the shoulder about every three loadings. I can't see where such practice has shortened case life to a noticeable degree.

[Son]

That once fired brass was fired in that rifle with it's current headspace?
If that's the case, and you have some concern that some of the brass might be a bit tight during rapid fire if it's only knecksized (which is common), then I guess the thing to do would be to use a FL die adjusted down only to the point where the brass offers no resistance when the bolt is turned down.
While I segregate and knecksize my 303 brass to a given rifle, I do lightly bump the shoulder about every three loadings. I can't see where such practice has shortened case life to a noticeable degree.

I agree 100%. Adjust your FLR die in so the case just chambers without any resistance and then keep the cases for that rifle, only needing to neck size 3 times then a "light bump" againg in the FLR. Don't forget to check length / trim length as needed.

[Hip's Ax]

Thanks guys. Yes, I keep my brass segregated so I know which rifle it is for. OK, I'll see if it fits with no resistence. Thanks!!

[cary m2a]

100% agree, been doing the same thing for years with mine to save on brass

Cary

[Edward Horton]

Two companies I know of make headspace control shims for placing under the lock ring of your resizing die, in the photo below the cut notches are the thickness of the washer in thousandths of an inch. The washer/shims are used to adjust the exact distance the shoulder of the case is pushed back for proper chambering during resizing.(.001 to .002)

[MJ1]

Ed I'm just not getting a good picture of under the lockring. I can stack washers under the lockring all day and it just moves the ring up and die stays in the same place.

cheers
..MJ..

[John Sukey (Deceased)]

You might want to use that set screw in the ring to lock it in place, Then the spacers you put under it will do what they are supposed to do.

[John Sukey (Deceased)]

Oh by the way, ED, you failed to mention WHICH companies do those spacers

quit teasing us and give us some names or websites

I would be interested .

[MJ1]

John I was doing that with a feeler gage set off the shell holder. Kind of shade tree but it worked. I would still like to see a photo of the shims in place.


..MJ..