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S&w mainspring tension
Could someone give instruction for adjusting the strain screw on the S&W model 10 revolver. If tension is made to just work the action, it seems as if their is a compound movement of the main spring when fully cocked with the spring " bouncing" right before battery. With the tension increased gradually the compound or bounce disappears and battery is reached smoothly. What is the right way?
Thanks for the replies:confused:
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I was told not to try to adjust the trigger pull with the strain screw. It should be tighten it all the way down.
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Thanks Vincent, it does not seem to increase or decrease trigger pull when adjusted except that with little to no tension the action will not work and as more tension is applied it keeps getting better. Actually I havent even thought of that because I'm not interested in pull weight I just dont want to break or overwork the spring. It makes sense to have more tension because the action seems smoother to me but when observing the mainspring while cocking the hammer that spring exhibits a helluva arch. I just dont want to break anything and its not that difficult a trigger pull in single action. The model I have is the one with the leaf hammer return spring and seems like a pretty decent mechanism. I got it in pieces entirely dis- assembled. good project but hard to figure out the internal lock-work without a guide. Thanks
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The screw should be run in as far as it will go. There's other ways of improving trigger pull, start by getting reduced power trigger return springs. There's also reduced power main springs, but you may be forced to use Federal primers to get good ignition.
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Thank you, Mr.jmoore right now I have the action working and will install the strain screw to its full depth like you advised. I think I will run the factory springs until I get a handle on the rest of the project because there will be other tasks to complete. With the action working properly I will have to fabricate a center pin from a hardened rod unless I can locate one and then lightly peen the replacement barrel at the shoulder to index the pin slot. The 5" s&w replacement barrel I have tightens about10 deg. past plumb. Lastly i will need to refinish, might try to home park. It's a shame the revolver was subject to a salt water environment and neglected but the cylinder and internals survived, however it is rewarding to get some traction and learn some new skills.
Thanks, Brian
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Victory Model? Or some other vintage? Post WWII parts may be somewhat different, but the larger springs wouldn't be too much different.
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Its a second model M&P with a square butt 38 service cartridge. It has a leaf trigger return spring vs. a coil spring like the later ones and it seems as if a lot of parts will interchange. I need to find a resource for a center pin.
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The barrel should be tight when done, if it turns past then it needs to be machined to carry on to the next rotation. These things aren't as easy to work on as one might think. There's many small bearing parts that affect the function. Yes, the strain screw should be tight and when adjusting for a lighter trigger, it's a job for someone that's done lots of them. Then you need to use Federal 100 primers. The pin you seek is mild and a standard size. You should be able to find correct parts in Numrich for those.
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EARLY S&w Lockwork
Now that I have the majority of those details worked out, could some one help me with the cylinder stop. I cannot tell how the trigger interacts with the cylinder stop to lock the cyl. when the hammer moves to battery. This model does not have the spring to assist the stop upwards when the lock work is manipulated that is drilled towards the front of the trigger bow. It seems as if the trigger has a protrusion which interacts with a small spring loaded detent to move the stop downwards actuating the detent and then may return the stop upwards when it comes to rest. I cannot find a good representation of the protrusion on the trigger to study. I only find the most information or reference to the later hand ejector models which have more parts inside the frame. Thanks for any help that is out there.:help: