Looking to remove the screw - really snug - I am concerned over damaging the screw, etc. (being careful not to hold via handguard).
Any ideas as to next steps - tools? ( I need a reason to make another trip to the hardware store)
Thank You!
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Looking to remove the screw - really snug - I am concerned over damaging the screw, etc. (being careful not to hold via handguard).
Any ideas as to next steps - tools? ( I need a reason to make another trip to the hardware store)
Thank You!
pad the jaws of a vice, clamp gas cyl in it(just enough to hold it) if it is the late style try a 1/4" socket ext in it ,should spin out or large blade screwdiver for old style.
Use a ratchet with a short 1/4 inch extension . It will fit inside the cross slot and allow you much more contact surface than a screwdriver and more leverage .
Being one of those "car nuts" with a fairly extensive restoration shop, for tight ones I use an impact with a bit I cut out of a T45 Torx bit. Gets'um off with the least amount of "collateral damage".
FWIW, "tight"/over-torqued lock screws are why torque wrenches were invented in the first place! 25 ft/lbs on the pin!
I made a wrench using a 5/16" Allen wrench. Grind a 1/4" square on the end. If you really have a tight one...put a short piece of pipe on the end.
Thank you very much on the ideas.
I am going to work carefully - really need to get her opened up and squared away cleaning.
Will keep you posted....
BTW - I think I have feelings for my M1..... I LUV MY GARAND!
Grateful Lead,
If I may offer some advice. Do you have Kroil Oil? (or any penatrant) Apply some Kroil at the seam where the gas plug flange and gas cylinder mate, then with the rifle's muzzle pointing down, apply a liberal amount of Kroil in the back of the gas cylinder and the (the important part) walk away! Let the Kroil do the work. Give it a day. The with the action out of the stock, pad the tangs and vise it up. Apply slow increasing pressure until the plug comes loose. Use whatever tool you have that will have the least play engaging the gas plug. Do not jerk or hit the plug loose. This can cause other problems later. The Kroil will get p under the carbon and loosen it.
If I may be of other assistance, just yell.
Best regards,
Sights
For next time, coat the threads of your gas cylinder lock with antiseize. I got my bottle at an autoparts store
I also recommend doing this with the M1a gas cylinder lock.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...06/80071-1.jpg
These parts were meant to be assembled dry. You do not need thread lockers or never sieze compounds. You just need the proper tools. These can be purchased through Fulton Armory and others.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...Dscf0934-1.jpg
I use a similar set-up to above for removing frozen gas lock screws.
3/8" T-Bar, Extension, and Phillips socket are Craftsman
The gas lock wrench should be in everyones kit in my opinion.
+1 on a drizzle of Kroil Oil if the screw just won't budge, let it sit and soak for a half hour and then try.:super:
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...tandard-35.jpg