Enfield king screw bushing

I've read about this but Idon't know what the king screw bushing/king screw are. Is there a web site that would show these ?parts. there sure is a lot I have to learn about Enfields.:o

The kingscrew is the front trigger guard screw and the bushing is the metal collar in the forestock that stops you from crushing the forestock wood when you tighten the kingscrew ;)

thanks very much, All parts are there.

I just bought one from Numrich.

Don't forget splitting the fore stock.

I think "kingscrew" is a fairly new term, it was always called the front guard screw. Someone just wanted to confuse the new guys.

Actually, The term "Kingscrew" dates back to the late 19th century.

this screw is only half of the story.

the sleeve that it goes through is responsible for the amount of compression exerted by the trigger guard up through the stock onto the bearing surface on the underside of the receiver rails and knox form. once the recoil lug surfaces are married to the impact faces in the stock, a final tuning for old rifles is achieved by honing the sleeve ever so slightly to allow the rear of the trigger guard to stand proud of the rear boss no more than 1/4", with the kingscrew one quarter to one half turn off tight. a sligh pressing is required to get the rear screw through.

do not attempt this with dry or cracked timbers.

remember when working with new or deep oil refurbished stocks the linseed oils would provide for a degree press forming, like a gasket seal, under pressure of the steel bearing faces in the receiver.
the trigger guard fitting is critical to effective operation of the recoil lugs in that the lugs must exert equal pressure at their interfaces for the rifle to consistenly whip during discharge in a verticle plane.

this is one reason why the australian lithgow built smle has two copper shims fitted. this made for a rifle that shot consistently longer before the pounding lossens every thing up.

hope this helps someone as it has helped me.

Yes, my most accurate mk III was put together with those copper shims. I have fired a few hundred rounds through it, and it is still accurate. The recoil lugs in my ISHAPORE collapsed after about 200 rounds, causing the forearm to split. Always bed the rifle the way you want before setting up the trigger, because the pull is affected by the angle of the guard.

Perhaps the major reason for the copper shims in OZ rifles, particularly later WWII vintage was the use of "coachwood" for the furniture. this tends to split easily, so any Lithgow after around 1942 or so should be looked at to see if they are there. If not, even aluminum will function as a bearing surface. Dave_n