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A question Guys. I went out to shoot my newest carbine today and when I got home and cleaned it, I noticed the Gas Nut was a little loose. How tight and do any of you use loctite? like maybe locktight Blue. Is this necessary or just torque it down real tight. Gun shot perfectly, very accurate, no jams no fouls, nothing but bullseye. I just went to a Gun Show yesterday and eyeballed one and told myself, no I dont need it yet. Should have, and I guess I'll order one.
Just snug it up; don't wrench on it hard. If it loosens again, put a drop of blue on it.
Rustship, do you know if it started out tight? I would just snug it up and try it again and see what happens before you try out the blue. On the other note, you know you can't have to many!!.....Frank
The nut usually finds where it was originally by bumping into the carbon build up at that point. They are often not even close to being fully seated and attempts to do so just risk thread damage. The goal is good function and if you have that, don't push the issue. I would advise replacing the nut with a new one simply to have straight fresh threads to work with. I also would NEVER stake the nut, using maybe some permatex or loctite instead. I personally wouldn't hesitate to remove the nut and clean the piston area as long as you are very careful when replacing the nut and avoid cross threading (use little quarter turn increments and back out an equal distance before resuming the tightening, this way any deformed threads are dressed by the nut as if it were a tap). Don't just slap it in and start screwing it down.
When I would detail strip and service Department carbines (or my own) I would routinely remove the piston and ream the gas port to get carbon out of the gas port using a drill bit with friction tape around the shank for my fingers to twist. I would soak with penetrating oil before carbon removal. I had two sizes of drills. One undersized and one about the correct size. I don't recall what size I used . It usually was not necessary, but occasionally one would be partially obstructed with carbon. I used blue lock tite and just snug to replace them.
You know, I never even paid attention to the gas nut when I broke it down after buying. It could very well have been loose. I know one thing I'll check them on both guns before and after. From all I've read they are not a high maintenance type item. You guys are great, and keep me from having to research so much LOL.Quote:
Originally Posted by frankderrico
Rustship, the members on this forum are the most knowlegable people on carbines you will find, and they willingly share that knowlege. And we are all learning from each other all the time, that is what makes this hobby (addiction) fun!!.....Frank
AMEN, FrankQuote:
Originally Posted by frankderrico
EASY solution;
1. Get one or two boxes of WOLF's ammo. :nono:
2. Shoot one box up real fast. :madsmile:
3.Check nut for carbon build up.If nut is tight with carbon build up you are good to go. :D
4. If nut is still loose, shoot second box. :madsmile::madsmile:
5. Check nut again.Also check piston for sticking.:ugh:
6. CAUTION:This may clog gas port. :yikes:
:lol::rofl::lol::rofl::lol::lol::lol:
Aw come on. WOLF is great ammo for minute of milk jug accuracy, feeding problems from 30 rounders, almost as dirty as black powder, and the smell of ammonia! That's just my experience. though.
It is strange, because 7.62x39 Wolf is much better!