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Hello Everybody
i go away for a couple of months and the whole site changes. What has happened to Sniper rifle of the month?
I picked up a Long Lee earlier this year. 1902 Sparkbrook with a Bushveldt Carbineers markup on the butt plate. Somebody has drilled and tapped the receiver to mount a scope - 2 holes on the receiver wall/two holes behind the knox form.
Anybody got any good tips onthe best way to fill in the holes? I am in the UK.
Thanks
Steve
It depends on how you want them plugged. If just a temp purchase a set of plug screws. They are made for this purpose. Your local Gunsmith or equivalent should have them.
For a permanent repair without welding acquire the correct size screws clean them and the hole with oil remover. Use RED loctite on the threads. Thread the screw into the hole but do not let it protrude into the receiver. When the loctite has cured trim the screw flush with surface mask surrounding area with scotch transparent tape and dress the screw down with jewelers files and then color with cold blue.
Thanks for that.
Yes. Its my policy to try to return the rifles to original spec so I would be looking at permanent plugging. I did consider leaving the scope on (it looked quite good) but it shot very poorly.
If I use screws to plug the holes won't that leave a circle in the metal if a groove is exposed?
Cheers
Steve
The part of the screw with the slot is cut off after the loctite is setup.Quote:
Originally Posted by Devils Own
After the screw is trimmed flush and dressed down to the receiver ( body ) surface with the jewelers file it will be barely visible but the line of the thread junction can be seen. The scotch tape is to prevent you from filing into the surrounding finish of the receiver, then cold blue the plug. The very EXPENSIVE way is to have a Master Gunsmith disassemble the receiver, un-barrel, and weld the holes shut. Dress and refinish the receiver. The bad part about this method is, 1 the new metal may not color the same as the original receiver area, 2 the heat can cause the original area to not take color correctly. 3 the temper of the receiver is lost in the area of the weld possibly rendering the receiver unsafe. 4 the receiver can be warped. I have only work with and researched No4 LEs so I do not know if your model was subject to being painted during an FTR. If it was your visible plugging problem is solved by a bit of body filler paste in the thread mating line after installing the plugs as above and before the paint.
Thanks JBS
I guess that if I used a counter-sunk screw that might help reduce any kind of thread circle. Unfortunately, paint was not used on Long Lees. I would also like to plug on the bolt channel side too. So may need to put a screw in from each side.
Cheers
Steve
Speak to EFD (they are in Kent) Pretty good chaps - ex-Enfield apprentices.Quote:
Originally Posted by Devils Own
They can re-build it for you.
Find the oldest and most skillful welder you can and ask him about it. Or if your funds permit, take it to a proper, older, experienced gunsmith and get them to arrange it for you.
A recent arrival from South Africa?
Using a set screw as a plug can make a near invisible repair. Tap the hole to minor thread spec. Deburr the hole opening very slightly, Loc-Tite the screw, cut it off leaving about a 1/8 above the base. Give several good hits with a hammer then finish off smooth with the base. Refinish with your choice of finish.
I would be reluctant to weld the receiver. Even with a TIG machine that holds the heat a small area you risk changing the heat treat of the surrounding steel. Using a 1.6mm tungsten with a TIG and pulse freq well still heat an area over a half inch in diameter.
If you can find someone with access to an electron beam welder it is readily repairable with minimal heating. If you have to pay for a E-beam well at a contract shop you will not like the cost though.
Any welding will leave a ring of glass hard steel in an area that is load bearing (due to the rear lockng lugs). the only difference will be the size of the heat affected zone. W/o a complete re-heat treat, it just doesn't sound like all that great a plan. It might not matter, but then again...
welding the receiver ring holes would be a lesser risk providing the barrel is removed first, but still- even if safe you're apt to have color variation from the heat affected zone, and the screw and weld material not matching throw in further variables.