Is there a minimal difference, no difference or significant difference in the wood from having the trigger hung from the Receiver as opposed to the guiard?
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Is there a minimal difference, no difference or significant difference in the wood from having the trigger hung from the Receiver as opposed to the guiard?
Significant difference. The Mk 1 fore-end is solid where it mates to the butt socket and utilizes a tie strap that is riveted for reinforcement. The Mk 2 is open in that area and uses a screw that goes through a notch cut in the trigger mounting boss to reinforce the fore-end. I may not have used the correct terminology on a couple of the parts but I am sure someone will be along to correct me. You can find out more at this link No4 Mk2 Rifle
This has been discussed at some length previously. Maybe someone with a bit of a computer brain can resurrect it. But lucky dog is correct.
Although not quite kosher, you CAN use a Mk2 fore-end on a Mk1 rifle.
So corrcet me if I'm worng but then the Mo.4 MK 1 /2 AND the Mk1/3 have the trigger hung from the receiver right? What is the difference between the two Mk1/2 and Mk 1/3?
The Mk1/2 is a Mk1 made up to Mk2 specQuote:
Originally Posted by newcastle
The Mk1/3 is a Mk1* made up to Mk2 spec
Many of the Mk1/2 and Mk1/3 retained the original fore-end and were modified to accept the screw of the Mk2.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...07/No407-1.jpg
Just as a matter of interest, BUT, if anyone is contemplating converting a Mk1 fore-end to Mk2 spec, here's a tip. Once you have removed the rear tie plate and brass rivet, please make sure that you slightly enlarge the side recesses left by the tie plate so that the edges are sharp and square otherwise you'll be left with a gap and a glue line. And another thing. Wood patch and glue ONE side only first. When that side is firm and set, then use the rivet hole from the other side as a guide for the drill to accurately mark the new tie screw hole.
Once one side is done accurately, courtesy of the original rivet hole, patch the other side and repeat the technique. The BOTH sides will be accurate, identical and most importantly, aligned.
If you don't follow this guide, then due to the fact that there are no definate squares or accurate edges to set the fore-end up, your new tie screw hole will be all over the place. Then you'll have to patch the patch and do it again and again until its right! That's a lesson learned during our apprenticeships and out tutors were hard taskmasters.
I'll make Armourers out of you all yet....................
Here are some photos of a recovery I did last year for a customer. His rifle was a 4/1 and the replacement stock was a 4/2. The 4/2 can be made to work with out this much work but the customer wanted the replacement stock to appear correct for the rifle from a distance.
What were the round counter sunk holes for the cross screw were in-letted to the rear for the bar. The larger cross holes were plugged with an oak dowel and then drilled for the brass anchor rod. The cross brace is white oak glued and fitted.
Nice bit of woodwork JBS. It brings a little smile to my face.............