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I just aquired a Mauser 95 rifle. It is full of storage grease and I would like to totally disassemble and reassemble the rifle in order to clean it. I noticed that the front band and the bayonett lug do not have any screws. How is this disassembled without destroying it? Can anyone help me?
I just aquired a Mauser 95 rifle. It is full of storage grease and I would like to totally disassemble and reassemble the rifle in order to clean it. I noticed that the front band and the bayonett lug do not have any screws. How is this disassembled without destroying it? Can anyone help me?
Download the Basic Manual of Military Small Arms by W.H.B. Smith (Expired Copyright 1943) which may be found in our Knowledge Libraries under the Technical Articles/Research for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders section.
How to load, operate, disassemble, assemble American, German, Italian, Japanese, Russian and other military small arms. 218 pages with photographs and line drawings.
It should be helpful to you …. :thup:
Regards,
Badger
Thank you so much for the info. I finally figured out how to thake the two items off, there are two metal bars underneath and with enough penetrating oil they started to move. If everything is in working order again, it should be simple just to press them down and slide the items off. I am still getting the manual though, because there is also the bolt assembly.
Thanks again,
hephoto:D
Here is a K98k Mauser video which has been extracted from our on-line "Screening Room" (click here). It's is a German K98k Bolt "Stripping & Assembling" Tutorial (Video courtesy of MILSURPS.COM member "CmpsdNoMore")
Mouse Click on the film strip thumbnail.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...blyandRe-1.jpg
German K98k Bolt "Stripping & Assembling" Tutorial
(Video courtesy of MILSURPS.COM member "CmpsdNoMore")
Although for a German K98k Mauser, it should work fine for your 1895 Chilean Mauser. ;)
Regards,
Badger
I think you will find that your Chilean is built similarly to the Swedish Mausers, which were developed at the same time.
If so, the order of dismantling is as follows:
Pull back bolt catch at left-rear of receiver and remove bolt.
Unscrew and remove cleaning rod.
The should be a band spring below the stock, on the center-line, to hold the nosecap.
Depress the spring and push off the nosecap. Easily said, often very difficult after a century.
So use a piece of hardwood that is narrower than the spring to depress the spring and simultaneously use a plastic hammer to tap the wood and GENTLY drive off the nosecap.
Do NOT use a metal hammer and a piece of metal for this operation, as any slip will result in gouges in the wood and the nosecap.
Remove the lower band in the same way.
Flip up the backsight to the verical position, with the slider at the end of the leaf (away from the barrel).
It should now be possible to remove the handguard with a lifting/twisting action.
Fix the rifle in a well-padded vice, bottom side up.
Push a screwdriver blade into the hole at the trigger end of the floorplate and push towards the trigger to release the floorplate catch.
Remove the floorplate + spring + follower assembly.
Use the largest (i.e. best grip) screwdriver you have, with a blade that fits the slot in the trigger guard screws fairly exactly. If necessary, regrind a blade to fit. This is the job where you typically have to use the most force, so using the wrong tool can very, very easily result in gouges/scratches/damage to yourself if the screwdrive blade slips. So go very cautiously and make sure the rifle really is properly clamped!
Loosen off the trigger guard screws. If the required force seems to be excessive, try tightening the screws (that often breaks the grip) and then loosening! If still resistant, apply the best penetrating oil you can find, then take a break for half an hour and try again.
I have had such trouble with trigger guard screws that I now use a blade matched to the screw slots in a two-handled tap wrench. That moves them all, but the warnings above apply with even more force!!
When you have loosened the screws several turns (but not removed them completely), so it is clear that they can be removed without further force, remove the rifle from the vice and place it across your knees while sitting down. Hold the stock and tap on the screw heads with the plastic hammer. This will loosen the barrelled system in the stock, which is probably otherwise glued in position by a century of grease and dirt. Remove the trigger guard screws completely, and you will have the barrelled action lying across your knees!
Using the above method - very carefully applied force through well-fitted tools - I can assure you that it is possible to dismantle a rifle with staked screws. And when the rifle is later reassembled, it is not possible to see that the staked screws were ever disturbed.
Good luck, and go carefully!
Patrick
Collecting and Shooting the Spanish Mauser Model 93 - HISTORY
This rifle is virtually identical to yours. The link has complete illustrated instructions.
I tried that link and it just redirected me. Is it a bad link? Sounds like something I'd love to read.Quote:
Originally Posted by Badger
Thank you all for your great advice! I really appreciate it and I have used your suggestions with great results.