Any thoughts on powdered graphite, and a tip needed?

Has anyone tried powdered graphite as a gun lubricant? I'm thinking perhaps the bolt channel could be de oiled and tried out, I'm all for smooth actions.

... and the muzzle of my trimmed back no1 mk3 barrel has unfortunately proved vulnerable to getting a ding right on the edge of a land. Some protection is going to be needed, has anyone devised a home made device? I'm thinking something T shaped that rests in the barrel, but can be found around the house, maybe a bolt with a wide washer and the thread covered with a section of plastic tube in about 303 diameter.:surrender:

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Originally Posted by RJW NZ

Has anyone tried powdered graphite as a gun lubricant? I'm thinking perhaps the bolt channel could be de oiled and tried out, I'm all for smooth actions.

... and the muzzle of my trimmed back no1 mk3 barrel has unfortunately proved vulnerable to getting a ding right on the edge of a land. Some protection is going to be needed, has anyone devised a home made device? I'm thinking something T shaped that rests in the barrel, but can be found around the house, maybe a bolt with a wide washer and the thread covered with a section of plastic tube in about 303 diameter.:surrender:

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I oil my actions and wipe them as dry as possible for shooting. Personally, I wouldn't use graphite there, I don't know of any that recommend it on actions either.

As for your crown, don't stick anything down the barrel. It's been "trimmed back" already- get it re-crowned and look after it. The crown should have the rifling back below the level of the muzzle end, and should not be easily damaged.

RJW NZ

I have a small plastic tub that American butter came in and it is full of aircraft grade graphite that I dip the necks of my cases in for resizing. I have used powdered graphite to lube the bolt and trigger but it doesn't last long and hates humid days.

Any of the super oils with Teflon or special slick additives will work much better than graphite.

NOTE: A Remington Arms Technical representative once told me to put as much gun oil on my Remington rifles as I liked. BUT when I was done applying the oil I was to take a dry rag and wipe off as much oil as possible and I still would have more oil/lubricant than my rifle could possibly need.
(I was with a machinist who was OVER oiling his Remington 870 Wingmaster, in fact he over oiled everything)

If want to write to a girl I know on the Gulf coast of of the U.S. she will send you some special BP made oil for your guns. :rolleyes:

https://www.milsurps.com/images/imported/deleted.gif

Powdered graphite is used on NZ Army Steyr AUG / F88 rifles as a lubricant for the working parts

Well, I did try a bit of powdered graphite and it was a great success, it reduced stubborn drag on the trigger by about 50% and drag on the bolt movement by about 30-40%. I just powdered it onto the oil already in place. The only drawback is that the bolt area can leave graphite smudges on my hands, so its a bit dirty. I wiped it up where I make contact and even with only the residual graphite still makes a nice difference. Worth it? Yes.

Molybdenum Disulfide powder works much better but will get you just as dirty. :thup:

Militec would be a way to go. Apply, heat to operating temp (shooting works, a good powerful hair dryer supposedly does too), repeat for a total of 3 times, making sure to wipe completely dry. Bonds with the metal, is dry, and after the initial application/heating, only needs to be reapplied every 1-2k rounds. It's been the "unofficial" lube of choice for M16s for years.

Oh, what regular little sweetheart she is! Looks like she could have been related to me a few years ago: regular baths of 34 degrees API light sour crude every time that d*^%&ed Treater got jammed up!

BTW, graphite is a wonderful lubricant for locks, cameras and motorcycle control cables but, on guns, there is just TOO much chance of it working its way onto the ammo, with results disastrous to follow instantly upon pulling the trigger.

there is just TOO much chance of it working its way onto the ammo, with results disastrous to follow instantly upon pulling the trigger.

er, dammed good point. thanks