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I've searched everywhere and can't seem to find:
What are the 4 elevation notches on my (type 2 milled?) rear sight? I've seen 100,200,250,300. Is this correct?
Is windage one minute per click?
Also I had to adjust the rear sight almost all the way to the left to zero it even tho the base is centered. Bent barrel?
Thanks!
Rear adjustable sights have settings for 100, 200, 250, and 300 yrds.
Each Click up or down will move the elevation up or down approx.. 5" for each 100yrds.
Windage knob, For side to side... one click is 1" per 100yrds.
Front sights can be a factor if they've been filed to short or the sight blade is to tall. Some front sights have been found loose with forward or side to side movement, because of loose staking of the key.
Barrel may not be correctly lined up with the witness mark on the receiver. Witness marks have been found that were not properly lined up when manufactured.
Barrels can be found bent, try a straight edge down the sides.
Best I can recall right now. Hope I've been some help. I'm sure others will pass along more detailed help.
Good luck,
Charlie-painter777
Here's a link to a fellow members recent battle with sighting in...
Lost My Mind At the Range
Thanks much !! Exactly what I needed to know.
I will investigate the barrel and see what I have!
Thanks again!
an original Winchester and a rebuilt NPM shoot point of aim at 100 yards. In other words, you aim center of target at 100 yds, you hit the 10 ring. It is annoying to someone who likes a 6:00 hold on the SR1, but that's the limitations of these sights. At least someone spent some time making them shoot P.O.A.
It is merely coincidental that you hit POA at 100. Original sighting was for the 6:00 hold, and POI could be up to 12" high at 100 and still be accepted.
BSAumph; whatcha got, a Super Road Rocket? The rear sight base is made wider than the receiver dovetail to allow for a wide range of sight base adjustment. You center the aperture and adjust the sight base to get centered on the target. The sight base is then secured by staking, and the aperture will only need very minor adjustment. Obviously the sight base does not have to be centered and not many are.
My Inland it about 3-4 inches above POA at 100 and dead on at 150 on the 100/150 setting of the rear sight. Basically a 6 o'clock hold on SR1 at 100. On a 25 yard sight in target, that is about 1.5 inch above POA at 25 yards. I was lucky. Mine came from CMP dead on like that!
So far.....the witness marks are lined up. My eyeball says everything looks pretty straight but it's hard to use a straight edge with all the barrel steps and the band in the way. Any tricks to check barrel straightness? I can shoot it like it is or drift the base to center the sight but it being way off just bugs me. Inland 44 I have a '69 Rocket 3.
The Win came with adjustable sights and the NPM was rebuilt with them and a new RIA front sight. So somebody set them up for a POA @100yds.
BSA: I think what you are seeing is what Gus Fisher used to call a combined result of manufacturing errors. He said this about M1 rifles. Things being off just a bit on all the parts. The M1 rifle has a set screw on the FRONT sight to adjust for all of these errors. Remember that these things were being pounded out at crazy production rates and not being very carefully done at that. When you look down the barrel of my Winchester it looks crooked as hell. Things cocked off to one side, and not lining up at all. And it is as it left the factory in Mar 1944. So I wouldn't get wrapped around the axle about how it looks. Does it hit the mark? That's what is important. The Carbines were built by eight companies who had never built guns. Some were making over 1000 a day, imagine how fast they had to pound these things out. The barrels were even more rushed with high scrap rates, so some off witness marks should be expected. Bent barrels were a common fault and straightened by eye using an arbor press to save the barrel. This was done on a rush basis I'm sure.
BSAs are legendary bikes. There's probably nothing wrong with your carbine. You'll just have to shoot it like it is or drift the sight base. You do that by making a temporary mark at the center of the aperture ramp on the receiver bridge (assuming it's sighted in). You then center the aperture and move the sight base until the center of the ramp hits the mark. But it's not that simple; if you have to move the base left, it will be getting tighter - looser to the right. If you have to move it left, you may have to remove it to the right, sand the bottom of the base and fit it that way. Then it has to be staked in place in the military manner. What if it has to move right? How do you then tighten it up? Good questions. Just remember to always work on the sight, not the gun. The sight is replacable. Maybe others have suggestions on tightening up a loose sight.