L1A1 markings

This is for British, Aust and possibly Canadian L1A1 owners. If you have the figures 4 and/or 7stamped into the tang (the extension underneath wher the butt screw goes through into the butt) of your trigger mechanism housing, this is an Armourers easily identifiable marker that two modifications have been carried out. It also tells him that he doesn't need to strip the rifle to know that they've been done.

The 4 indicates that the rifle has a two-piece firing pin fitted to the breech block
The 7 indicates that a modification has been done to the return spring screw so that when you unscrew it with that special rodded screwdriver thing, the screw won't unscrew the whole return spring tube from the trigger mechanism housing.

There, just another bit of Enfield info that I thought that you'd like to know about, especially if you've got one marked with the 4 and/or 7

I have one brit marked with 4 another with a 4 and a 7 thanks for the info.

Also, you MAY encounter Brit or Aussie rifles with either a '1' or a '2' or BOTH, stamped onto the gas block side. This is also an Armourers aid to inform that the gas port has been reamed out to 'stage one' & then 'Stage Two'.
IF a rifle was a bit 'tired' & turning down the gas reg did not give sufficient adjustment to eject spent rounds. The FIRST thing the Armourer checked was obviously the gas cylinder, & that it's retention pin had not fallen out & resulted in the cylinder turning slightly. And subsequently masking the gas port. Also checked for a slit or crack in the cyl. If OK, then the gas port was reamed with the appropraiate reamers. If I remember correctly, 2.6mm then 2.7mm was stage one. 2.8mm & then 2.9mm was stage two. it was reamed in these small measurements so as to remove small amounts of metal carefully & not snap a reamer. if you did snap one, Disasterous consequence ensued! :nono: After reaming, it was essential to run the .297" bore gauge down the 'Tube' to ensure no flashing of the metal around the gas port remained. If it was left it would tear lumps of coper off the bullet jacket! Removal of this metal was done with a cleaning rod, one piece, with strands of brass wire in the end loop.

You're right Tankie........ I'd forgotten about that brass wire stuff too. The reamers were a real handfull if you're going to try it anyone. You have to be very careful if it picks-up and binds. Just tweak it in a way that it didn't like and that was it and they NEVER snapped leaving a convenient shank sticking out. It always broke inside the gas block and sticking into the bore. Then a broken reamer could lead to a knackered barrel.......
And the Armourer Sergeant was not a happy little rabbit..........

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

You're right Tankie........ I'd forgotten about that brass wire stuff too. The reamers were a real handfull if you're going to try it anyone. You have to be very careful if it picks-up and binds. Just tweak it in a way that it didn't like and that was it and they NEVER snapped leaving a convenient shank sticking out. It always broke inside the gas block and sticking into the bore. Then a broken reamer could lead to a knackered barrel.......
And the Armourer Sergeant was not a happy little rabbit..........

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Peter, I was lucky (& carefull!) I know just what you mean with regards to the fragility of those reamers. They are SOOOOO hard & brittle! I had to remove a couple on two seperate occassions when a young craftsman who was a bit inexpirienced was tasked with reaming the ports.
I sat & thought about it over a mug of Coffee. (as you do, in the WKSP!) as you know, the end of the reamer sometimes protrudes into the bore. So, I used the Tamping Plug (To the unaware, this is a tool VERY similar in profile & form to a barrel gauge. It is used to 'Tamp' down a broken pullthrough to compress the rope cord. Then a 'Worm' is screwed onto the end of a threaded cleaning rod. This is a hardend steel screw that has been brazed onto a threaded paralell piece of rod. The 'Worm', is screwed into a little bit of the remaining pullthrough cord & pulled back out from the barrel. It MAY come out in one piece, it may come out in a few pieces. It USUALLY came out in many pieces!
Right, back to to the snapped reamer! I used a 'Tamping Plug' to put down the bore until It met the reamer tip that was sticking through. Lightly wacked the end of the cleaning rod handle with a Mallet, Armourers, Rawhide. Until it snapped the reamer off a bit. repeated this a couple of times & then a pin punch could be put in the gas port from above into the gas block. & tap the remaining stub of reamer INTO the bore. This could then be shaken out & the bore cleaned & inspected. If you were CAREFULL, it didnt scratch the bore & the .297" plug Gauge would run fine. Another rifle saved from going back to Field Wksps for a replacment barrel! Just a bit of thought & carefull use of the issued handtools could mostly get you out of trouble!

I believe the L85A1 when first introduced into Service had a gas plug problem, which effectively put the weapon 'Off the road' as well. If the 'user' inserted the gas plug in the wrong position. The little spring loaded retention plunger would 'pop' into the gas port in the barrel when the plug was inserted into the gas block from the rear. The retension plunger was the same size as the gas port! This was later rectified with modified plungers having a bigger diameter head so it would NOT be able to fit the gas port diameter! Obviously, the weapon WAS fireable in a 'Battle Emergency' but by hand cocking only!