How do you turn the drums on a mk 3 scope without changing the zero? I'm sure instructions are out there, I just can't seem to find them...
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How do you turn the drums on a mk 3 scope without changing the zero? I'm sure instructions are out there, I just can't seem to find them...
Bit of an ambiguous question.
You can zero the drums once you have zeroed the rifle, otherwise I'm not sure I understand the intent
The slipping scales on the periphery should move using finger pressure, but there's a raised boss on them that has an indentation for a bullet point to enhance turnng force, if required. Just hold the turret stationary by gripping the knurled portion with one hand whilst turning the scale to the desired position w/ the other hand. (If it hasn't been done in a while, they may stick- but don't force it!)
If I've read you right Reaper, the answer is 'it's simple...........'. This is because the 0 - 10 slipping scale is attached to the drum by friction. So when you turn the actual knurled thumbwheel part of the drum turret, the slipping scale rotates with it - because it's fixed to it by friction! If you want to move the slipping scale, then, as correctly described above, you hold the knurled thumbscrew part and slip the slipping scale. I should add that the slipping scale should be a lot tighter than 'finger pressure'. There is a poundage load rate that I forget now.
There's a good little book out about these telescopes by 'a bloke wot writ it' a few years ago. I forget his name but BDL has them in stock!
Of course Reaper6, Peter is joking ... :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
In addition to being a trained and highly experienced military Armourer, he has authored two excellent books about the No.4(T) sniper rifles and their No.32 scopes. They are titled "An Armourer's Perspective: .303 No.4(T) Sniper Rifle", which he co-authored with Ian Skennerton and his own dedicated work, "Telescope Sighting No.32".
If you're really interested in some in-depth learning about the No.4(T) sniper rifles and the No.32 series of scopes, their history, evolution, repair and adjustments for shooting, we'd highly recommend those two books, which are pictured below.
http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerd...Laidler-HC.jpg(Click PIC to Enlarge)http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerd...32-Laidler.jpg
Here's a pamphlet in the MKL that may be of interest as well .. ;)
1952 Instructional Pamphlet for No.4 Mk1(T) sniper rifle
Regards,
Doug
Similar question. I have my L1A1 zeroed (nearly ) at 100 yards - elevation perfect but it shoots 1 inch to the right OR 1 inch to the left at the next click of the windage, even if I rotate the sliding scale to say 5 when it's at zero it is still the actual clicks whihc go too far. is there any way of moving the clicking drum rather than the scale?
Could be your grat block is a little sticky in there and isn't moving freely, allowing the backlash in the leadscrew, which could well equate to a MOA, to make the movements inconsistent with the turning of the lead screw (and drum) The scale is totally irrelevant to the problem, unless it is so loose it is moving and giving you a false reading of your movement of the drum - if you're relying on that and not the feel of the clicks. How positive are the clicks?
Of course that opinion might only be worth what it cost you!
You need to make an internal adjustment by loosening the locking ring and turning the lead screw to line it up to your taste.
Thank you gents. I got it all zeroed in, the rifle to the scope, the sliding scales set, etc... Sure was easy once I knew how the scope worked!
Sorry brian wa sthat advice for my problem or the original poster's problem.
the clicks on my drums are positive and very sharp. Should one click equal 1 1/2 - 2" at one hundred yards or shoudl one click = one inch at 100?