Is it "cheating" to put shims between the forend and action on a No4?

Hello folks,

I was "de-sporterizing" a No4 this past weekend, and in order to have an old forend offer the required upward pressure at the muzzle, I have to place shims between the action and forend, at the very back (behind the sear lugs). Is this cheating? If so, what would have been the armourers' options? (Ok that was a vague attempt at subtly asking Peter Laidler without necessarily mentioning is name! :D )

In related news I should post pics of this gun. It now has a nice blonde stock and it's an Early Savage-built, with a six groove barrel (anyone knows how many of these were made, roughly, compared to the more common 2-groove?)

Thanks!

Louis

I always worked on the principle that everything rotated about the front trigger guard screw Lou. So if it was me, I'd LOWER the barrel and body seating slightly and the accumulative effect would be to increase the weight of the barrel onto the fore-end at the muzzle.

On the other hand, if it's all correctly fitted at the breech and body, then why not patch up and RAISE the muzzle bearing. Just make sure that when you do, the barrel won't be affected by the top handguard and seats centrally.

Any comments TBone.......? You've patched a few zillion by now!

Thanks Peter. Re. raising the bearing: The final effect would be as good, plus, it wouldn't screw with the geometry of the trigger guard - a better choice, then!

Louis

In my limited experience, i can give you only an advice : do not put shims past the draws. Tried this method in the past, I found a big raise of fore end tip pressure but it was only a palliative: if wood is shrincked the only thing to do is patching. Raising the receiver means to push away the front hanguard screw from her threaded hole. So it results, in my limited experience, in a less thight fitment. I noticed whai i just told you in my forst Enfield. Am I grossly wrong Captain Laidler?