Installing a SARCO replica German high turret scope mount on a K98?

Has anyone installed the SARCO replica, high turret scope mount on a K98?

When I purchased my Lee Enfield #4mk1 (T) scope mount for my Savage (T) I also ordered one of SARCO's turret mounts for the K98. The (T) mount worked perfectly and was very close to the centerline of the bore. The scope zeroed with very little windage or elevation used. Hopefully the turret mount will work out as well as the (T) mount.

I am moving on to my next project and want to have the SARCO turret mounts installed on a K98 that has a excellant barrel, but is not a collectable rifle. I am looking to have a shooter when I finish.

Is there anyone out there that has experience or knows anyone that has knowledge installing these mounts? I would appreciate any information reguarding the installation of this mount.

Any problems or things to watch for when installing the mount? It appears the the radius of the SARCO front base will need to be fitted to the receiver ring radius. The rear base fits the receiver bridge very closely.

I understand that the original German turret mounts were soldered on and then held with two, angled screws (one on each side of the receiver). I was thinking that instead of soldering the front base, I would have two extra holes drilled and tapped on the centerline of the receiver ring (Like conventional bases), so that would give me four screws holding the front base. This would eliminate the soldering phase of the original installation, but give me a solid mount. I would then use JB Weld to fit the base, thus eliminating any slight variations between the ring and the base.

I would use the same fitting procedure for the rear base.

Any comments on my thought process for this installation or am I going wrong with this installation?

I discussed this with Chuck in Denver and he said he would be interested in doing the installation. I understand he does good work.

Thanks for your help. Doug Rosso

may I ask how much the set up at Sarco ran you for ur K98? I have never had good luck with JB Weld btw

If it were my setup, I would bring it to a gunsmith who could solder it properly.

That is great advice, except now a day's, and I am going based on my experience with them in my area. There are no real gunsmiths left. The ones in this area can only do simple tasks on hunting rifles. They won't admit it. They'll tell you they don't want to work on it or you have the wrong parts, Meaning they don't have the right jig or know how. I had some real bad experiences. lol I had to become my own gunsmith and had got quite good at it. It's very enjoyable to do your own work.

Like I said that's how it is south of Pittsburgh. I'm sure it's not like that every where. I know there are knowledgeable ones on this site.

Hi JerryB08,

I know what you mean by gunsmiths. Most of the old timers are retired or gone West now, and if you bring in a WWIIY weapon they don't have a clue.
I'd suggest giving Chuckindenver a shout. Chuck is very good and he's honest. He also has the best prices around which helps. You can ship it directly to him and his turn around is usually quick. (He's on our advisory panel too) Here's a link to his page and you can send him a Private Message (PM) or an email. If he doesn't know how to do something he'll be honest and tell you, but I think he'll be able to do it well.

Military Surplus Collectors Forums

Luckily here in Canada, we have a few good gunsmiths, but many guys have to ship their rifles to get them to someone worth doing business with. I suspect the same is true Stateside. I'm confident there are some great Mauser rifle smiths down there if you are willing to ask around and ship the rifle.

I definitely recommend having it properly silver soldered on. It'll look and feel more the part if you do not to mention being far sturdier than JB weld. Plus, as many hack jobs as I have seen, I always try to perform any 'upgrade' as such the way it was done by the armourers who originally did them. If you want to do it yourself, get some tools together (having the equipment and know how will come in handy all the time I find) and practice a bit. Then I suggest you go for it, worst to worst, you un solder it and try again. Good luck!