How to adjust reticle clarity on Wien K. Kahles h/4x60 scope ?

hello, can anyone tell me how to adjust clarity on a vintage Wien K. Kahles h/4x60 scope ? I see the knurled knob half way between eyepiece and elevation adjustment, on scope tube, but I can't turn it. This has a flat blade set screw in it. It appears to be the adustment ring for the reticle clarity, but it's seized. Are these known to seize up with time ? The elevation knob is free and works just fine.

It appears this ring is held into a slot that is angled from left to right, so when the ring is turned, it adjusts the clarity of the reticle for your eyes. I can see the reticle perfectly clear without my eyeglasses on (I'm nearsighted and wear glasses) but when I put my eyeglasses on, the reticle becomes blurry. Usually I'm able to just adjust the ocular eyepiece until the reticle is clear with my glasses on, with every other scope I have on every rifle, but on this scope it is nonadjustable, just screws in and holds the lenses in place.

any help appreciated

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Originally Posted by locknloadnow

It appears this ring is held into a slot that is angled from left to right, so when the ring is turned, it adjusts the clarity of the reticle for your eyes.

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I have met this on another type of scope (German). The screw seemed to have been tightened by a frustrated auto mechanic. I got it loose, but had to use what was uncomfortably close to brute force. I have a second example of the same scope, and on that one it was no problem.

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Originally Posted by locknloadnow

I can see the reticle perfectly clear without my eyeglasses on (I'm nearsighted and wear glasses) but when I put my eyeglasses on, the reticle becomes blurry.

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Same here. The answer is, so to speak, staring us in the face - use the scope without glasses. I get better results that way.

:wave:
Patrick

yes I already thought that, for target shooting it would be no problem, for deer hunting it would be a problem. I like to hunt with my old rifles occasionally, and that means I'd have to remove the scope and use the open express sights, or flip my glasses up on my head to shoot- which one seldom has time to do that in thick brush whitetail hunting. The deer go by pretty fast even when they are walking or grazing, and any unnecessary movements usually spooks them.

I was able to get the small set screw off pretty easily, but that doesn't help the inner adjustment much, it's seized inside. The set screw merely connects the outer thumb wheel adjustment ring, to the inner lens that adjusts the image. So just removing the screw does not free it up inside.

I hear you on the brute force, I used a rag to grasp the ring and was turning it with nearly all my strength and it didn't budge, and I'm afraid of breaking off that set, because all the force of that outer ring is transferred through the set screw, to the inner adjustment lens tube

the ring basically adjusts a tube with a glass in it, that is pressed inside the main scope body tube, and should float freely in there and turn with ease. It's seized up. I have to remove the front and rear glass assemblies to clean them, and got a good look at what's inside. These scopes have amazing clarity for their time, and are better than most of the made in China scopes of today. They are very easy to disassemble and clean, and are not over-engineered. You can remove the front and back glass by hand without a spanner.

the same thing happens to these scopes, that happens to old phonographs and record players, the grease gets hard and sticky and dries up, and ends up being more like glue than grease, and seizes the parts solid, and if they are aluminum alloys they get really stuck, like welded together.

this is a claw mount setup and I really like it. It latches and unlatches almost effortlessly. If they made a scope mount this nice today they'd sell millions of them. It makes a Weaver mount system look like junk.

can anyone date the scope for me ? here's some pictures

No Rocket Doctor here but I've worked on enough hotrods to remember that steel / iron bolts uncoated will seize if installed & torqued into aluminium intakes; like sieze and pull the thread out with them when power is applied.
I've got a Kahles 2.7 X 7, but it doesn't have this adjustment ( thankfully, I guess).

no, that's not it, the locking screw came right out. It's the original grease on the assembly, after a while it turns to glue and makes it stick. So it has to be completely disassembled and boiled out or cleaned