Another No.4 foreend question

Hi! I bought a new No.4 fore end. Not new, i apologize; a fore end that needs a linseed oil drink. Draws we're unfitted, so i did it. Then i reassembled fore end to the rifle and noticed that fore end tip was too much close to front sight base. What is the correct clearence here ( if there's one) ?

Now i have removed 1,5 mm from the wirst face of fore end and repatched the draws. My obiective is to force the fore end to come towards buttsocket 1,5 mm. But...the fore end doesn't move 1,5 mm desired. I suspect the iron the iron ahead front handguard screw will contact the wood wedge under the ring...

What i have to do?

Anyone ??

Bow...... Your descriptive/technical English is not so good and many might not fully understand. BUT, if I read the question many times, this is the problem. That when you fit the fore-end and it is tight at the rear, the fore-end cap touches the foresight block band and/or the protector. This is my answer:

If the fore-end is as far back towards the butt socket as it is possible to go, then there is only a couple of things that you can do! But before we go there, I have to say that although I have seen plenty with the fore-end cap CLOSE to the foresight protector, I have never seen one touch. There is no clearance distance except that the protector must NOT touch the handguard or fore-end cap

The first solution is to look at the fore-end cap. There are two versions. 1) a full cap version where the front portion completely covers the end grain of the fore-end (with just a half circle clearance for the barrel), or 2) an open type fore-end cap where the end grain of the fore-end is open. You must use the open type that will allow a few mm's extra clearance. If the edges of the open type touch the block band or protectors, then you can carefully remove some of the wood behind the front edges and carefully dolly the fore-end cap inwards/rearwards to clear

The alternative is to remove the pin, block band foresight and move the foresight block a tad further forward on the splines OR replace the block with another to see if the position of the pin might be causing the problem block. I suppose that if it was just a few mm's, then you could carefully drill and taper-ream a new hole for the pin - but I have never had cause to do this. I suppose you could also machine a few mm's off the rear of the block and protector...............

Anone else out there in Forumland come across this problem and found an answer?

My English isn't that good, i know. I'll try with some photos. Thank you!

Bow, no need for photos if we have given you the answer.............

Is the a chance that the front sight block is not correctly positioned on the barrel? I've seen sight blocks repositioned and cross pin redrilled as it was loose in it's orginal position. .5mm is a lot of material to remove at either face of the stock. If the draws are fitted; the rear of the stock is against the butt sockett ; king screw in place and barrel fits the channel then the interference is all at the front. A couple pictures would be great. Just a thought. Ron

Comparing this No.4 with my old No.4 , front sight block is a bit behind his most common position. It sits on the rear portion of the splines. I want to sit it in the most common place, a little bit forward. How to remove it from the barrel?

I have told you how to do this Bow. Thread 3, paragraph 4!